The Anarchists Cookbook - Part 2

Cookbook Part 1

The Index:

Sodium Chlorate

Mercury Fulminate

Improvised Black Powder

Nitric Acid

Dust Bomb Instructions

Carbon-Tet Explosive

Picric Acid from Aspirin

RDX from C-4 Explosives

Egg-based Gelled Flame Fuels

Clothespin Switch

Flexible Plate Switch

Low Signature Systems

Cigarette Delay Igniter


Dried Seed Timer

Nail Grenade

Bell Glossary

Beat Phone Dial Locks

Exchange Scanning

A Short History of Phreaking

"Secrets of the Little Blue Box"

The History of British Phreaking

"Bad as Shit"


Fucking with the Operator

PM 1,1 (The Phone Preak's Fry-Um Guide)

International Country Codes

Infinity Transmitter Schematics



Yummy Marihuana Recipes


Chemical Fire Bottle

Igniter from Book Matches

Red or White Powder

Pipe Hand Grenade

European Credit Card Fraud

Potassium Bomb

Your Legal Rights

Juvenile Offenders' Rights

Down The Road Missle

Fun With ShotGunn Shells

Surveillance Equipment

Drip Timer



Shaving cream bomb

Ripping off change machines 2

Lockpicking the EASY way

Anarchy 'N' Explosives Prelude

Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 2

Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 3

Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 4

Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 5


Explosives and Propellants

Lockpicking 3

Chemical Equivalent List 2

Cellulose Nitrate

Starter Explosives

Flash Powder

Exploding Pens

Revised Pipe Bombs 4.14


Ammonium TriIodide

Sulfuric Acid/Ammonium Nitrate III

Black Powder 3




Picric Acid 2

Bottled Explosives

Dry Ice

Fuses / Ignitors / Delays

Film Canister Bombs

Book Bombs

Phone Bombs

Special Ammunition


Pipe Cannon 2

Smoke Bombs


Suppliers II

Lab-Raid Checklist

Misc. Anarchy

LockPicking 4

Misc. Anarchy II

-* THERMITE 4 *-


Sodium Chlorate by the Jolly Roger

Sodium Chlorate is a strong oxidizer used in the manufacture of explosives. It can be used in place of
Potassium Chlorate.
Material Required Sources
----------------- -------

2 carbon or lead rods (1 in. diameter Dry Cell Batteries
by 5 in. long) (2-1/2 in. diameter by
7" long) or plumbing
supply store
Salt, or ocean water Grocery store or ocean
Sulfuric acid, diluted Motor Vehicle Batteries
Motor Vehicle
2 wires, 16 gauge (3/64 in. diameter approx.), 6 ft. long, insulated.
1 gallon glass jar, wide mouth (5 in. diameter by 6 in. high approx.)
Heavy cloth
Large flat pan or tray

1. Mix 1/2 cup of salt into the one gallon glass jar with 3 litres (3 quarts) of water.
2. Add 2 teaspoons of battery acid to the solution and stir vigorously for 5 minutes.
3. Strip about 4 inches of insulation from both ends of the two wires.
4. With knife and sticks, shape 2 strips of wood 1 by 1/8 by 1-1/2. Tie the wood strips to the lead
or carbon rods so that they are 1-1/2 incles apart.
5. Connect the rods to the battery in a motor vehicle with the insulated wire.
6. Submerge 4-1/2 inches of the rods in the salt water solution.
7. With gear in neutral position, start the vehicle engine. Depress the accelerator approx. 1/5 of
its full travel.
8. Run the engine with the accelerator in this position for 2 hours, then shut it down for 2 hours.
9. Repeat this cycle for a total of 64 hours while maintaining the level of the acid-salt water
solution in the glass jar.
CAUTION: This arrangement employs voltages which can be quite dangerous! Do not touch bare wire
leads while engine is running!!
10. Shut off the engine. Remove the rods from the glass jar and disconnect wire leads from the
11. Filter the solution through the heavy cloth into a flat pan or tray, leaving the sediment at the
bottom of the glass jar.
12. Allow the water in the filtered solution to evaporate at room temperature (approx. 16 hours). The
residue is approximately 60% or more sodium chlorate which is pure enough to be used as an
explosive ingredient.

-------Exodus------ CBIV, '94

Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating compounds. It can be detonated by
either heat or shock, which would make it of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of
dropping a crystal of the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would probably
use the following procedure:
--------- ---------
5 g mercury glass stirring rod

35 ml concentrated 100 ml beaker (2)
nitric acid

ethyl alcohol (30 ml) adjustable heat source

distilled water blue litmus paper

funnel and filter paper

Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate. Methyl
alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.

Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be hard to find in most stores as
they have been superseded by alcohol and other less toxic fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury
switches, which are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be
kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will cause
brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it
outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this.
1. In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid, using the glass rod.
2. Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the solution turns green and
3. Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and carefully add all of the
contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic
and flammable.
4. After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that the reaction is near
completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the distilled water to the solution.
5. Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid solution. Dispose of the
solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and toxic.
6. Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess acid as possible. Test
the crystals with the litmus paper until they are neutral. This will be when the litmus paper
stays blue when it touches the wet crystals
7. Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from any explosive or
flammable material.

This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury cannot be weighed. Simply use 10
volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of ethanol to every one volume of mercury.
Improvised Black Powder by the Jolly Roger

Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner. It may be used as blasting or gun powder.

Material Required
* Potassium Nitrate, granulated, 3 cups (3/4 liter)
* Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
* Sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup
* Alcohol, 5 pints (2-1/2 liters) (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc.)
* Water, 3 cups (3/4 liter)
* Heat source
* 2 buckets - each 2 gallon (7-1/2 litres) capacity, at least one of which is heat resistant (metal,
ceramic, etc.)
* Flat window screening, at least 1 foot (30 cm) square
* Large wooden stick
* Cloth, at leat 2 feet (60 cm) square

1. Place alcohol in one of the buckets.
2. Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket. Add 1 cup water and
mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingrediants are dissolved.
3. Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and stir until small bubbles
begin to form.
CAUTION: DO NOT boil mixture. Be sure ALL mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as on sides of pan, it
may ignite!
4. Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring vigorously.
5. Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to obtain black powder.
Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid.
6. Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder on screen and granulate by
rubbing solid through screen. NOTE: If granulated particles appear to stick together and change
shape, recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 & 6.
7. Spread granulated black powder on flat, dry surface so that layer about 1/2 inch (1-1/4 cm) is
formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator, or direct sunlight. This should be dried as soon as possible,
preferably in an hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective the black powder.

CAUTION: Remove from heat AS SOON AS granules are dry. Black powder isnow ready to use.

Used in CBIV, '94 -= Exodus =-
NITRIC ACID -= Exodus =- '94

There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for explosives. One method by which it
could be made will be presented. Once again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED
Materials: Equipment:
---------- ----------
sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source
potassium nitrate
distilled water
ice bath
sulfuric acid stirring rod

collecting flask with stopper
1. Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.
2. Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium nitrate. and add this to
the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until
it does.
3. Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the collecting flask in the
ice bath.
4. Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid begins to come out of the
end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom
of the retort is almost dry, or until no more nitric acid is forming.
CAUTION: If the acid is headed too strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is
formed. This can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may explode.
It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away from it.

Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, simply by dissolving black
powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium
nitrate, it would be necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling
water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the liquid that
pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when
the solution of water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.
Dust Bomb Instructions by the Jolly Roger

An initiator which will initiate common material to produce dust explosions can be rapidly and easily
constructed. This type of charge is ideal for the destruction of enclosed areas such as rooms or

Material Required
* A flat can, 3 in. (8 cm) in diameter and 1-1/2 in. (3-3/4 cm) high. A 6- 1/2 ounce tuna can serves
the purpose quite well.
* Blasting cap
* Explosive
* Aluminum (may be wire, cut sheet, flattened can, or powder)
* Large nail, 4 in. (10 cm) long
* Wooden rod - 1/4 in. (6 mm) diameter
* Flour, gasoline, and powder or chipped aluminum

NOTE: Plastic explosive produce better explosions than cast explosives.

1. Using the nail, press a hole through the side of the tuna can 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch (1 to 1-1/2 cm)
from the bottom. Using a rotating and lever action, enlarge the hole until it will accomodate the
blasting cap.
2. Place the wooden rod in the hole and position the end of the rod at the center of the can.
3. Press explosive into the can, being sure to surround the rod, until it is 3/4 inch (2 cm) from the
top of the can. Carefully remove the wooden rod.
4. Place the aluminum metal on top of the explosive.
5. Just before use, insert the blasting cap into the cavity made by the rod. The initiator is now
ready to use.

NOTE: If it is desired to carry the initiator some distance, cardboard may be pressed on top of the
aluminum to insure against loss of material.

How to Use:

This particular unit works quite well to initiate charges of five pounds of flour, 1/2 gallon (1-2/3
litres) of gasoline, or two pounds of flake painters aluminum. The solid materials may merely be
contained in sacks or cardboard cartons. The gasoline may be placed in plastic coated paper milk
cartons, as well as plastic or glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the initiator
and the blasting cap is actuated electrically or by a fuse depending on the type of cap employed. this
will destroy a 2,000 cubic feet enclosure (building 10 x 20 x 10 feet).

Note: For larger enclosures, use proportionally larger initiators and charges.

CBIV, '94, -= Exodus =-
Carbon-Tet Explosive by the Jolly Roger

A moist explosive mixture can be made from fine aluminum powder combined with carbon tetrachloride or
tetrachloroethylene. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.
Material Required Source
----------------- ------
Fine aluminum bronzing powder Paint store
Carbon Tetrachloride Pharmacy, or fire
or extinguisher fluid
tetrachloroethylene Dry cleaners, pharmacy
Stirring rod (wood)
Mixing container (bowl, bucket, etc.)
Measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.)
Storage container (jar, can, etc.)
Blasting cap
Pipe, can or jar

1. Measure out two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tetrachloride or tetrachlorethylene
liquid into mixing container, adding liquid to powder while stirring with the wooden rod.
2. Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey syrup.
CAUTION: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not be inhaled.
3. Store explosive in a jar or similar water proof container until ready to use. The liquid in the
mixture evaporates quicky when not confined.

NOTE: Mixture will detonate in this manner for a period of 72 hours.

How to Use:
1. Pour this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe
is not available, you may use a dry tin can or glass jar.
2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix.

NOTE: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.

Compiled by: Exodus
Making Picric Acid from Aspirin by the Jolly Roger

Picric Acid can be used as a booster explosive in detonators, a high explosive charge, or as an
intermediate to preparing lead picrate.

Material Required
* Aspirin tablets (5 grains per tablet)
* Alcohol, 95% pure
* Sulfuric acid, concentrated, (if battery acid, boil until white fumes disappear)
* Potassium Nitrate (see elsewhere in this Cookbook)
* Water
* Paper towels
* Canning jar, 1 pint
* Rod (glass or wood)
* Glass containers
* Ceramic or glass dish
* Cup
* Teaspoon
* Tablespoon
* Pan
* Heat source
* Tape

1. Crush 20 aspirin tablets in a glass container. Add 1 teaspoon of water and work into a paste.
2. Add approximately 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol (100 millilitres) to the aspirin paste; stir while
3. Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution through a paper towel into another glass container. Discard
the solid left in the paper towel.
4. Pour the filtered solution into a glass or ceramic dish.
5. Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution by placing the dish into a pan of hot water.
White powder will remain in the dish after evaporation.
NOTE: The water in the pan should be at hot bath temperature, not boiling, approx. 160 to 180
degress farenheit. It should not burn the hands.
6. Pour 1/3 cup (80 millilitres) of concentrated sulfuric acid into a canning jar. Add the white
powder to the sulfuric acid.
7. Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid in a pan of simmering hot water bath for 15 minutes; then remove
jar from the bath. Solution will turn to a yellow-orange color.
8. Add 3 level teaspoons (15 grams) of potassium nitrate in three portions to the yellow-orange
solution; stir vigorously during additions. Solution will turn red, then back to a yellow-orange
9. Allow the solution to cool to ambient room temperature while stirring occasionally.
10. Slowly pour the solution, while stirring, into 1-1/4 cup (300 millilitres) of cold water and allow
to cool.
11. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light yellow particles will
collect on the paper towel.
12. Wash the light yellow particles with 2 tablespoons (25 millilitres) of water. Discard the waste
liquid in the container.
13. Place articles in ceramic dish and set in a hot water bath, as in step 5, for 2 hours.

Compiled by: Exodus
Reclamation of RDX from C-4 Explosives by the Jolly Roger

RDX can be obtained from C-4 explosives with the use of gasoline. It can be used as a booster
explosive for detonators or as a high explosive charge.

Material Required
* Gasoline
* C-4 explosive
* 2 - pint glass jars, wide mouth
* Paper towels
* Stirring rod (glass or wood)
* Water
* Ceramic or glass dish
* Pan
* Heat source
* Teaspoon
* Cup
* Tape

NOTE: Water, Ceramic or glass dish, pan, & heat source are all optional. The RDX can be air dried

1. Place 1-1/2 teaspoons (15 grams) of C-4 explosive in one of the pint jars. Add 1 cup (240
milliliters) of gasoline.
NOTE: These quantities can be increased to obtain more RDX. For example, use 2 gallons of gasoline
per 1 cup of C-4.
2. Knead and stir the C-4 with the rod until the C-4 has broken down into small particles. Allow
mixture to stand for 1/2 hour.
3. Stir the mixture again until a fine white powder remains on the bottom of the jar.
4. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into the other glass jar. Wash the particles collected on
the paper towel with 1/2 cup (120 milliliters) of gasoline. Discard the waste liquid.
5. Place the RDX particles in a glass or ceramic dish. Set the dish in a pan of hot water, not
boiling and dry for a period of 1 hour.

NOTE: The RDX particles may be air dried for a period of 2 to 3 hours.

See later file...... CBIV. -= Exodus =-
Egg-based Gelled Flame Fuels by the Jolly Roger

The white of any bird egg can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to
target surfaces.

Materials Required
Parts by
Volume Ingredient How used Common Source
-------- ---------- -------- -------------

85 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas Stations
Stove Fuel Motor Vehicle

14 Egg Whites Food Food Store
Industrial Farms

Any one of the following:

1 Table Salt Food Sea Water
Industrial Natural Brine
Processes Food Store

3 Ground Coffee Food Coffee Plant
Food Store

3 Dried Tea Leaves Food Tea Plant
Food Store

3 Cocoa Food Cacao Tree
Food Store

2 Sugar Sweetening Sugar Cane
foods Food Store

1 Saltpeter Pyrotechnics Natural
(Potassium Explosives Deposits
Nitrate) Matches Drug Store

1 Epsom Salts Medicine Natural
Mineral Water Kisserite
Industrial Drug Store
Processes Food Store

2 Washing Soda Washing Cleaner Food Store
(Sal Soda) Medicine Drug Store
Photography Photo Supply

1 1/2 Baking Soda Baking Food Store
Manufacturing Drug Store
of: Beverages

1 1/2 Aspirin Medicine Drug Store
Food Store


CAUTION: Make sure that ther are no open flames in the area when mixing flame fuels! NO SMOKING!!
1. Seperate the egg white from the yolk. This can be done by breaking the egg into a dish and
carefully removing the yolk with a spoon.
2. Pour egg white into a jar, bottle, or other container, and add gasoline.
3. Add the salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir occasionally until gel forms (about 5 to
10 minutes).
NOTE: A thicker gelled flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped jar in hot (65 degrees
Centegrade) water for about 1/2 hour and then letting them cool to room temperature. (DO NOT HEAT

Courtesy of CBIV, '94. -= Exodus =-
Clothespin Switch by the Jolly Roger

A spring type clothespin is used to make a circuit closing switch to actuate explosive charges, mines,
booby traps, and alarm systems.

Material Required:
* Spring type clothespin
* Sold copper wire -- 1/16 in. (2 mm) in diameter
* Strong string on wire
* Flat piece of wood (roughly 1/8 x 1" x 2")
* Knife

1. Strip four in. (10 cm) of insulation from the ends of 2 solid copper wires. Scrape the copper
wires with pocket knife until the metal is shiny.
2. Wind one scraped wire tightly on jaw of the clothespin, and the other wire on the other jaw.
3. Make a hole in one end of the flat piece of wood using a knife, heated nail or drill.
4. Tie strong string or wire through the hole.
5. Place flat piece of wood between the jaws of the clothespin switch.

Basic Firing Circuit:
| |---------------------------\
| initiator |----------\ | strong
-------------- | | twine
| | \
| _---------_________
| ---------
| | \clothespin \
\ / switch
\ /
\ /
\ /
+ -
| |
| battery|

When the flat piece of wood is removed by pulling the string, the jaws of the clothespin will close,
completing the circuit.

CAUTION: Do not attach the battery until the switch and trip wire have been emplaced and examined. Be
sure that the flat piece of wood is seperating the jaws of the switch.

Revised '94. -= Exodus =-
Flexible Plate Switch by the Jolly Roger

This flexible plate switch is used for initiating emplaced mines and explosives.

Material Required:
* Two flexible metal sheets
one approximately 10 in. (25 cm) square
one approximately 10 in. x 8 in. (20 cm)
* Piece of wood 10 in. square x 1 in. thick
* Four soft wood blocks 1 in. x 1 in. x 1/4 in.
* Eight flat head nails, 1 in. long
* Connecting wires
* Adhesive tape

1. Nail 10 in. by 8 in. metal sheet to 10 in. square piece of wood so that 1 in. of wood shows on
each side of the metal. Leave one of the nails sticking up about 1/4 in.
2. Strip insulation from the end of one connecting wire. Wrap this end around the nail and drive the
nail all the way in.
3. Place the four wood blocks on the corners of the wood base.
4. Place the 10 in. square flexible metal sheet so that it rests on the blocks in line with the wood
5. Drive four nails through the metal sheet and the blocks (1 per block) to fasten the sheet to the
wood base. A second connecting wire is atached to one of the nails as in step #2.
6. Wrap the adhesive tape around the edges of the plate and wood base. This will assure that no dirt
or other foreign matter will get between the plates and prevent the switch from operating.

How to use:

The switch is placed in a hole in the path of expected traffic and covered with a thin layer of dirt
or other camouflaging material. The mine or other explosive device connected to the switch can be
buried with the switch or emplaced elsewhere as desired.

When a vehicle passes over the switch, the two metal plates make contact closing the firing circuit.

Revised, '94. Exodus
Low Signature Systems (Silencers) by the Jolly Roger

Low signature systems (silencers) for improvised small arms weapons can be made from steel gas or
water pipe and fittings.

Material Required:
* Grenade Container
* Steel pipe nipple, 6 in. (15 cm) long - (see table 1 for diameter)
* 2 steel pipe couplings - (see table 2 for dimensions)
* Cotton cloth - (see table 2)
* Drill
* Absorbent cotton

1. Drill hole in grenade container at both ends to fit outside diameter of pipe nipple. (see table 1)
-> /----------------------\
/ | |
2.75 in | ) ( <-holes
dia. \ | |
-> \-----------------------/

5 in.
2. Drill four rows of holes in pipe nipple. Use table 1 for diameter and location of holes.
(Note: I suck at ASCII art!)

6 in.
_____________________________________ ___
| O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O | | C (nom. dia.)
(size of hole) | \ / (space between)
B (dia.) A
3. Thread one of the pipe couplings on the drilled pipe nipple.
4. Cut coupling length to allow barrel of weapon to thread fully into low signature system. Barrel
should butt against end of the drilled pipe nipple.
5. Seperate the top half of the grenade container from the bottom half.
6. Insert the pipe nipple in the drilled hole at the base of the bottom half of the container. Pack
theabsorbent cotton inside the container and around the pipe nipple.
7. Pack the absorbent cotton in top half of grenade container leaving hole in center. Assemble
container to the bottom half.
8. Thread the other coupling onto the pipe nipple.

Note: A longer container and pipe nipple, with same "A" and "B" dimensions as those given, will
furthur reduce the signature of the system.

How to use:
1. Thread the low signature system on the selected weapon securely.
2. Place the proper cotton wad size into the muzzle end of the system (see table 2)
3. Load weapon
4. Weapon is now ready for use

TABLE 1 -- Low Signature System Dimensions
(Coupling) Holes per (4 rows)
A B C D Row Total
.45 cal 3/8 1/4 3/8 3/8 12 48

.38 cal 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48

9 mm 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48

7.62 mm 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48

.22 cal 1/4 5/32 1/8* 1/8 14 50
*Extra Heavy Pipe
(All dimensions in inches)

TABLE 2 -- Cotton Wadding - Sizes
Weapon Cotton Wadding Size
.45 cal 1-1/2 x 6 inches

.38 cal 1 x 4 inches

9 mm 1 x 4 inches

7.62 mm 1 x 4 inches

.22 cal Not needed


A variation on the standard cigarette display was invented by my good friend Atur (THE Pyromaniac).
Rather than inserting the fuse into the SIDE of the cigarette (and risk splitting it) half of the
filter is cut off, and a small hole is punched THROUGH the remainder of the filter and into the
(Ill. 4.31.1)

|FIL|Tobacco Tobacco Tobacco
fusefusefusefuse Tobacco Tobacco side view
|TER|Tobacco Tobacco Tobacco
/ \
| o | filter end view
\___/ (artwork by The Author)

The fuse is inserted as far as possible into this hole, then taped or glued in place, or the cigarette
can be cut and punched ahead of time and lit normally, then attached to the fuse at the scene.

A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet of paper. Simply roll the
sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired
location, and insert a fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused
with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with powdered charcoal
could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a
delay by merely lining up a few bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and
lighting the first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply store,
can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse about the end of an incense stick,
delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible.

Fer the '94 CookBook. -= Exodus =-
Nicotine by the Jolly Roger

Nicotine is an abundant poison. Easily found in tobacco products, in concentrated form a few drops can
quickly kill someone. Here is how to concentrate it:

First get a can of chewing tobacco or pipe tobacco. Remove the contents and soak in water overnight in
a jar (about 2/3 cup of water will do...). In the morning, strain into another jar the mixture through
a porous towel. Then wrap the towel around the ball of tobacco and squeeze it until all of the liquid
is in the jar. Throw away the tobacco--you will not need it anymore.

Now you have two options. I recommend the first. It makes the nicotine more potent.
1. Allow to evaporate until a sticky syrup results in the jar. This is almost pure nicotine (hell, it
is pure enough for sure!).
2. Heat over low flame until water is evaporated and a thick sticky syrup results (I don't know how
long it takes... shouldn't take too long, though.).

Now all you have to do, when you wish to use it, is to put a few drops in a medicine dropper or
equivalent, and slip about 4 or 5 drops into the victim's coffee. Coffee is recommended since it will
disguise the taste. Since nicotine is a drug, the victim should get quite a buzz before they turn
their toes up to the daisies, so to speak.

Note: If the syrup is too sticky, dilute it with a few drops of water. And while you are at it, better
add an extra drop to the coffee just to be sure!

Revised in '94,,..... -= Exodus =-
Dried Seed Timer by the Jolly Roger

A time delay device for electrical firing circuits can be made using the principle of expansion of
dried seeds.

Material Required:
* Dried peas, beans, or oter dehydrated seeds
* Wide-mouth glass jar with non-metal cap
* Two screws or bolts
* Thin metal plate
* Hand drill
* Screwdriver

1. Determine the rate of the rise of the dried seeds selected. This is necessary to determine the
delay time of the timer.
+ Place a sample of the dried seeds in the jar and cover with water.
+ Measure the time it takes for the seeds to rise a given height. Most dried seeds increase 50%
in one to two hours.
2. Cut a disc from thin metal plate. Disc should fit loosely inside the jar.
NOTE: If metal is painted, rusty, or otherwise coated, it must be scraped or sanded to obtain a
clean metal surface
3. Drill two holes in the cap of the jar about 2 inches apart. Diameter of holes should be such that
screws or bolts will thread tightly into them. If the jar has a metal cap or no cap, a piece of
wood or plastic (NOT METAL) can be used as a cover.
4. Turn the two screws or bolts through the holes in the cap. Bolts should extend about one in. (2
1/2 cm) into the jar.
IMPORTANT: Both bolts must extend the same distance below the container cover.
5. Pour dried seeds into the container. The level will depend upon the previously measured rise time
and the desired delay.
6. Place the metal disc in the jar on top of the seeds.

How to use:
1. Add just enough water to completely cover the seeds and place the cap on the jar.
2. Attach connecting wires from the firing circuit to the two screws on the cap.

Expansion of the seeds will raise the metal disc until it contacts the screws and closes the circuit.

Nail Grenade by the Jolly Roger

Effective fragmentation grenades can be made from a block of tnt or other blasting explosive and

Material Required:
* Block of TNT or other blasting explosive
* Nails
* Non-electric (military or improvised) blasting cap
* Fuse Cord
* Tape, string, wire, or glue

1. If an explosive charge other than a standard TNT block is used, make a hole in the center of the
charge for inserting the blasting cap. TNT can be drilled with relative safety. With plastic
explosives, a hole can be made by pressing a round stick into the center of the charge. The hole
should be deep enough that the blasting cap is totally within the explosive.
2. Tape, tie, or glue one or two rows of closely packed nails to the sides of the explosive block.
Nails should completely cover the four surfaces of the block.
3. Place blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
NOTE: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes a known length to
burn. If 12 inches (30 cm) burns for 30 seconds, a 10 second delay will require a 4 inch (10 cm)
4. Insert the blasting cap in the hole in the block of explosive. Tape or tie fuse cord securly in
place so that it will not fall out when the grenade is thrown.

Alternate Use:

An effective directional anti-personnel mine can be made by placing nails on only one side of the
explosive block. For this case, an electric blasting cap can be used.

Revised in '94. -= Exodus =-
The Bell Glossary courtesy of Exodus

. The Bell Glossary - ..
. by ..
. /\<\ /\<\ ..
. \>ad \>arvin ..
* ACD: Automatic Call Distributor - A system that automatically distributes calls to operator pools
(providing services such as intercept and directory assistance), to airline ticket agents, etc.
* Administration: The tasks of record-keeping, monitoring, rearranging, prediction need for growth,
* AIS: Automatic Intercept System - A system employing an audio-response unit under control of a
processor to automatically provide pertinent info to callers routed to intercept.
* Alert: To indicate the existence of an incoming call, (ringing).
* ANI: Automatic Number Identification - Often pronounced "Annie," a facility for automatically
identify the number of the calling party for charging purposes.
* Appearance: A connection upon a network terminal, as in "the line has two network appearances."
* Attend: The operation of monitoring a line or an incoming trunk for off-hook or seizure,
* Audible: The subdued "image" of ringing transmitted to the calling party during ringing; not
derived from the actual ringing signal in later systems.
* Backbone Route: The route made up of final-group trunks between end offices in different regional
center areas.
* BHC: Busy Hour Calls - The number of calls placed in the busy hour.
* Blocking: The ratio of unsuccessful to total attempts to use a facility; expresses as a
probability when computed a priority.
* Blocking Network: A network that, under certain conditions, may be unable to form a transmission
path from one end of the network to the other. In general, all networks used within the Bell
Systems are of the blocking type.
* Blue Box: Equipment used fraudulently to synthesize signals, gaining access to the toll network
for the placement of calls without charge.
* BORSCHT Circuit: A name for the line circuit in the central office. It functions as a mnemonic for
the functions that must be performed by the circuit: Battery, Overvoltage, Ringing, Supervision,
Coding, Hybrid, and Testing.
* Busy Signal: (Called-line-busy) An audible signal which, in the Bell System, comprises 480hz and
620hz interrupted at 60IPM.
* Bylink: A special high-speed means used in crossbar equipment for routing calls incoming from a
step-by-step office. Trunks from such offices are often referred to as "bylink" trunks even when
incoming to noncrossbar offices; they are more properly referred to as "dc incoming trunks." Such
high-speed means are necessary to assure that the first incoming pulse is not lost.
* Cable Vault: The point which phone cable enters the Central Office building.
* CAMA: Centralized Automatic Message Accounting - Pronounced like Alabama.
* CCIS: Common Channel Interoffice Signaling - Signaling information for trunk connections over a
separate, nonspeech data link rather that over the trunks themselves.
* CCITT: International Telegraph and Telephone Consultative Committee- An International committee
that formulates plans and sets standards for intercountry communication means.
* CDO: Community Dial Office - A small usually rural office typically served by step-by-step
* CO: Central Office - Comprises a switching network and its control and support equipment.
Occasionally improperly used to mean "office code."
* Centrex: A service comparable in features to PBX service but implemented with some (Centrex CU) or
all (Centrex CO) of the control in the central office. In the later case, each station's loop
connects to the central office.
* Customer Loop: The wire pair connecting a customer's station to the central office.
* DDD: Direct Distance Dialing - Dialing without operator assistance over the nationwide intertoll
* Direct Trunk Group: A trunk group that is a direct connection between a given originating and a
given terminating office.
* EOTT: End Office Toll Trunking - Trunking between end offices in different toll center areas.
* ESB: Emergency Service Bureau - A centralized agency to which 911 "universal" emergency calls are
* ESS: Electronic Switching System - A generic term used to identify as a class, stored-program
switching systems such as the Bell System's No.1 No.2, No.3, No.4, or No.5.
* ETS: Electronic Translation Systems - An electronic replacement for the card translator in 4A
Crossbar systems. Makes use of the SPC 1A Processor.
* False Start: An aborted dialing attempt.
* Fast Busy: (often called reorder) - An audible busy signal interrupted at twice the rate of the
normal busy signal; sent to the originating station to indicate that the call blocked due to busy
* Final Trunk Group: The trunk group to which calls are routed when available high-usage trunks
overflow; these groups generally "home" on an office next highest in the hierarchy.
* Full Group: A trunk group that does not permit rerouting off-contingent foreign traffic; there are
seven such offices.
* Glare: The situation that occurs when a two-way trunk is seized more or less simultaneously at
both ends.
* High Usage Trunk Group: The appellation for a trunk group that has alternate routes via other
similar groups, and ultimately via a final trunk group to a higher ranking office.
* Intercept: The agency (usually an operator) to which calls are routed when made to a line recently
removed from a service, or in some other category requiring explanation. Automated versions (ASI)
with automatic voiceresponse units are growing in use.
* Interrupt: The interruption on a phone line to disconnect and connect with another station, such
as an Emergence Interrupt.
* Junctor: A wire or circuit connection between networks in the same office. The functional
equivalent to an intraoffice trunk.
* MF: Multifrequency - The method of signaling over a trunk making use of the simultaneous
application of two out of six possible frequencies.
* NPA: Numbering Plan Area.
* ONI: Operator Number Identification - The use of an operator in a CAMA office to verbally obtain
the calling number of a call originating in an office not equipped with ANI.
* PBX: Private Branch Exchange - (PABX: Private Automatic Branch Exchange) An telephone office
serving a private customer, Typically , access to the outside telephone network is provided.
* Permanent Signal: A sustained off-hook condition without activity (no dialing or ringing or
completed connection); such a condition tends to tie up equipment, especially in earlier systems.
Usually accidental, but sometimes used intentionally by customers in high-crime-rate areas to
thwart off burglars.
* POTS: Plain Old Telephone Service - Basic service with no extra "frills".
* ROTL: Remote Office Test Line - A means for remotely testing trunks.
* RTA: Remote Trunk Arrangement - An extension to the TSPS system permitting its services to be
provided up to 200 miles from the TSPS site.
* SF: Single Frequency. A signaling method for trunks: 2600hz is impressed upon idle trunks.
* Supervise: To monitor the status of a call.
* SxS: (Step-by-Step or Strowger switch) - An electromechanical office type utilizing a gross-motion
stepping switch as a combination network and distributed control.
* Talkoff: The phenomenon of accidental synthesis of a machine-intelligible signal by human voice
causing an unintended response. "whistling a tone".
* Trunk: A path between central offices; in general 2-wire for interlocal, 4-wire for intertoll.
* TSPS: Traffic Service Position System - A system that provides, under stored- program control,
efficient operator assistance for toll calls. It does not switch the customer, but provides a
bridge connection to the operator.
* X-bar: (Crossbar) - An electromechanical office type utilizing a "fine-motion" coordinate switch
and a multiplicity of central controls (called markers). There are four varieties:
+ No.1 Crossbar: Used in large urban office application; (1938)
+ No 3 Crossbar: A small system started in (1974).
+ No.4A/4M Crossbar: A 4-wire toll machine; (1943).
+ No.5 Crossbar: A machine originally intended for relatively small suburban applications;
+ Crossbar Tandem: A machine used for interlocal office switching.

Revised in '94 CBIV,.......... -= Exodus =-
Phone Dial Locks -- How to Beat'em courtesy of Exodus

Have you ever been in an office or somewhere and wanted to make a free phone call but some asshole put
a lock on the phone to prevent out-going calls? Fret no more phellow phreake, for every system can be
beaten with a little knowledge!

There are two ways to beat this obstacle, first pick the lock, I don't have the time to teach
locksmithing so we go to the second method which takes advantage of telephone electronics.

To be as simple as possibnle when you pick up the phone you complete a circuit known as a local loop.
When you hang up you break the circuit. When you dial (pulse) it also breaks the circuit but not long
enough to hang up! So you can "Push-dial." To do this you >>> RAPIDLY <<< depress the switchhook. For
example, to dial an operator (and then give her the number you want to call) >>> RAPIDLY <<< & >>>
EVENLY <<< depress the switchhook 10 times. To dial 634-1268, depress 6 X'S pause, then 3 X'S, pause,
then 4X'S, etc. It takes a little practice but you'll get the hang of it. Try practicing with your own
# so you'll get a busy tone when right. It'll also work on touch-tone(tm) since a DTMF line will also
accept pulse. Also, never depress the switchhook for more than a second or it'll hang up!

Finally, remember that you have just as much right to that phone as the asshole who put the lock on

Unrevised.. I have yet to see a "Dial-Lock".. Exodus

(From the Official Phreaker's Guide)
Exchange Scanning courtesy of Exodus

Almost every exchange in the bell system has test #'s and other "goodies" such as loops with dial-ups.
These "goodies" are usually found betweed 9900 and 9999 in your local exchange. If you have the time
and initiative, scan your exchange and you may become lucky!

Here are some findings in the 914-268 exchange:
9900 - ANI
9901 - ANI
9966 - COMPUTER (SEE 9941)

Most of the numbers between 9900 & 9999 will ring or go to a "what #, please?" operator.

Revised in '94.. Exodus

(from the Official Phreaker's Manual)
A Short History of Phreaking courtesy of Exodus

Well now we know a little vocabulary, and now its into history, Phreak history. Back at MIT in 1964
arrived a student by the name of Stewart Nelson, who was extremely interested in the telephone. Before
entering MIT, he had built autodialers, cheese boxes, and many more gadgets. But when he came to MIT
he became even more interested in "fone-hacking" as they called it. After a little while he naturally
started using the PDP-1, the schools computer at that time, and from there he decided that it would be
interesting to see whether the computer could generate the frequencies required for blue boxing. The
hackers at MIT were not interested in ripping off Ma Bell, but just exploring the telephone network.
Stew (as he was called) wrote a program to generate all the tones and set off into the vast network.

Now there were more people phreaking than the ones at MIT. Most people have heard of Captain Crunch
(No not the cereal), he also discovered how to take rides through the fone system, with the aid of a
small whistle found in a cereal box (can we guess which one?). By blowing this whistle, he generated
the magical 2600hz and into the mouthpiece it sailed, giving him complete control over the system. I
have heard rumors that at one time he made about 1/4 of the calls coming out of San Francisco. He got
famous fast. He made the cover of people magazine and was interviewed several times (as you'll soon
see). Well he finally got caught after a long adventurous career. After he was caught he was put in
jail and was beaten up quite badly because he would not teach other inmates how to box calls. After
getting out, he joined Apple computer and is still out there somewhere.

Then there was Joe the Whistler, blind form the day he was born. He could whistle a perfect 2600hz
tone. It was rumored phreaks used to call him to tune their boxes.

Well that was up to about 1970, then from 1970 to 1979, phreaking was mainly done by college students,
businessmen and anyone who knew enough about electronics and the fone company to make a 555 Ic to
generate those magic tones. Businessmen and a few college students mainly just blue box to get free
calls. The others were still there, exploring 800#'s and the new ESS systems. ESS posed a big problem
for phreaks then and even a bigger one now. ESS was not widespread, but where it was, blue boxing was
next to impossible except for the most experienced phreak. Today ESS is installed in almost all major
cities and blue boxing is getting harder and harder.

1978 marked a change in phreaking, the Apple ][, now a computer that was affordable, could be
programmed, and could save all that precious work on a cassette. Then just a short while later came
the Apple Cat modem. With this modem, generating all blue box tones was easy as writing a program to
count form one to ten (a little exaggerated). Pretty soon programs that could imitate an operator just
as good as the real thing were hitting the community, TSPS and Cat's Meow, are the standard now and
are the best.

1982-1986: LD services were starting to appear in mass numbers. People now had programs to hack LD
services, telephone exchanges, and even passwords. By now many phreaks were getting extremely good and
BBS's started to spring up everywhere, each having many documentations on phreaking for the novice.
Then it happened, the movie War Games was released and mass numbers of sixth grade to all ages flocked
to see it. The problem wasn't that the movie was bad, it was that now EVERYONE wanted to be a
hacker/phreak. Novices came out in such mass numbers, that bulletin boards started to be busy 24 hours
a day. To this day, they still have not recovered. Other problems started to occur, novices guessed
easy passwords on large government computers and started to play around... Well it wasn't long before
they were caught, I think that many people remember the 414-hackers. They were so stupid as to say
"yes" when the computer asked them whether they'd like to play games. Well at least it takes the heat
off the real phreaks/hacker/krackers.

(from the Official Phreaker's Manual)
Secrets of the Little Blue Box Courtesy of the Exodus

***** The AAG Proudly Presents The AAG Proudly Presents *****
* *
* +----------------------------------------------+ *
* *
* Secrets of the Little Blue Box *
* *
* by Ron Rosenbaum *
* Typed by One Farad Cap/AAG *
* *
* -A story so incredible it may even make you *
* feel sorry for the phone company- *
* *
* (First of four files) *
* *
* +----------------------------------------------+ *
* *
***** The AAG Proudly Presents The AAG Proudly Presents *****

Dudes... These four files contain the story, "Secrets of the Little Blue Box", by Ron Rosenbaum.

-A story so incredible it may even make you feel sorry for the phone company-

Printed in the October 1971 issue of Esquire Magazine. If you happen to be in a library and come
across a collection of Esquire magazines, the October 1971 issue is the first issue printed in the
smaller format. The story begins on page 116 with a picture of a blue box. --One Farad Cap, Atlantic
Anarchist Guild

The Blue Box Is Introduced: Its Qualities Are Remarked

I am in the expensively furnished living room of Al Gilbertson (His real name has been changed.), the
creator of the "blue box." Gilbertson is holding one of his shiny black-and-silver "blue boxes"
comfortably in the palm of his hand, pointing out the thirteen little red push buttons sticking up
from the console. He is dancing his fingers over the buttons, tapping out discordant beeping
electronic jingles. He is trying to explain to me how his little blue box does nothing less than place
the entire telephone system of the world, satellites, cables and all, at the service of the blue-box
operator, free of charge.

"That's what it does. Essentially it gives you the power of a super operator. You seize a tandem with
this top button," he presses the top button with his index finger and the blue box emits a
high-pitched cheep, "and like that" -- cheep goes the blue box again -- "you control the phone
company's long-distance switching systems from your cute little Princes phone or any old pay phone.
And you've got anonymity. An operator has to operate from a definite location: the phone company knows
where she is and what she's doing. But with your beeper box, once you hop onto a trunk, say from a
Holiday Inn 800 (toll-free) number, they don't know where you are, or where you're coming from, they
don't know how you slipped into their lines and popped up in that 800 number. They don't even know
anything illegal is going on. And you can obscure your origins through as many levels as you like. You
can call next door by way of White Plains, then over to Liverpool by cable, and then back here by
satellite. You can call yourself from one pay phone all the way around the world to a pay phone next
to you. And you get your dime back too."

"And they can't trace the calls? They can't charge you?" "Not if you do it the right way. But you'll
find that the free-call thing isn't really as exciting at first as the feeling of power you get from
having one of these babies in your hand. I've watched people when they first get hold of one of these
things and start using it, and discover they can make connections, set up crisscross and zigzag
switching patterns back and forth across the world. They hardly talk to the people they finally reach.
They say hello and start thinking of what kind of call to make next. They go a little crazy." He looks
down at the neat little package in his palm. His fingers are still dancing, tapping out beeper

"I think it's something to do with how small my models are. There are lots of blue boxes around, but
mine are the smallest and most sophisticated electronically. I wish I could show you the prototype we
made for our big syndicate order."

He sighs. "We had this order for a thousand beeper boxes from a syndicate front man in Las Vegas. They
use them to place bets coast to coast, keep lines open for hours, all of which can get expensive if
you have to pay. The deal was a thousand blue boxes for $300 apiece. Before then we retailed them for
$1500 apiece, but $300,000 in one lump was hard to turn down. We had a manufacturing deal worked out
in the Philippines. Everything ready to go. Anyway, the model I had ready for limited mass production
was small enough to fit inside a flip-top Marlboro box. It had flush touch panels for a keyboard,
rather than these unsightly buttons, sticking out. Looked just like a tiny portable radio. In fact, I
had designed it with a tiny transistor receiver to get one AM channel, so in case the law became
suspicious the owner could switch on the radio part, start snapping his fingers, and no one could tell
anything illegal was going on. I thought of everything for this model -- I had it lined with a band of
thermite which could be ignited by radio signal from a tiny button transmitter on your belt, so it
could be burned to ashes instantly in case of a bust. It was beautiful. A beautiful little machine.
You should have seen the faces on these syndicate guys when they came back after trying it out. They'd
hold it in their palm like they never wanted to let it go, and they'd say, 'I can't believe it. I
can't believe it.' You probably won't believe it until you try it."

The Blue Box Is Tested: Certain Connections Are Made

About eleven o'clock two nights later Fraser Lucey has a blue box in the palm of his left hand and a
phone in the palm of his right. He is standing inside a phone booth next to an isolated shut-down
motel off Highway 1. I am standing outside the phone booth.

Fraser likes to show off his blue box for people. Until a few weeks ago when Pacific Telephone made a
few arrests in his city, Fraser Lucey liked to bring his blue box (This particular blue box, like most
blue boxes, is not blue. Blue boxes have come to be called "blue boxes" either because 1) The first
blue box ever confiscated by phone-company security men happened to be blue, or 2) To distinguish them
from "black boxes." Black boxes are devices, usually a resistor in series, which, when attached to
home phones, allow all incoming calls to be made without charge to one's caller.) to parties. It never
failed: a few cheeps from his device and Fraser became the center of attention at the very hippest of
gatherings, playing phone tricks and doing request numbers for hours. He began to take orders for his
manufacturer in Mexico. He became a dealer.

Fraser is cautious now about where he shows off his blue box. But he never gets tired of playing with
it. "It's like the first time every time," he tells me.

Fraser puts a dime in the slot. He listens for a tone and holds the receiver up to my ear. I hear the
tone. Fraser begins describing, with a certain practiced air, what he does while he does it. "I'm
dialing an 800 number now. Any 800 number will do. It's toll free. Tonight I think I'll use the -----
(he names a well-know rent-a-car company) 800 number. Listen, It's ringing. Here, you hear it? Now
watch." He places the blue box over the mouthpiece of the phone so that the one silver and twelve
black push buttons are facing up toward me. He presses the silver button -- the one at the top -- and
I hear that high-pitched beep. "That's 2600 cycles per second to be exact," says Lucey. "Now, quick.
listen." He shoves the earpiece at me. The ringing has vanished. The line gives a slight hiccough,
there is a sharp buzz, and then nothing but soft white noise.

"We're home free now," Lucey tells me, taking back the phone and applying the blue box to its
mouthpiece once again. "We're up on a tandem, into a long-lines trunk. Once you're up on a tandem, you
can send yourself anywhere you want to go." He decides to check out London first. He chooses a certain
pay phone located in Waterloo Station. This particular pay phone is popular with the phone-phreaks
network because there are usually people walking by at all hours who will pick it up and talk for a

He presses the lower left-hand corner button which is marked "KP" on the face of the box. "That's Key
Pulse. It tells the tandem we're ready to give it instructions. First I'll punch out KP 182 START,
which will slide us into the overseas sender in White Plains." I hear a neat clunk-cheep. "I think
we'll head over to England by satellite. Cable is actually faster and the connection is somewhat
better, but I like going by satellite. So I just punch out KP Zero 44. The Zero is supposed to
guarantee a satellite connection and 44 is the country code for England. Okay... we're there. In
Liverpool actually. Now all I have to do is punch out the London area code which is 1, and dial up the
pay phone. Here, listen, I've got a ring now."

I hear the soft quick purr-purr of a London ring. Then someone picks up the phone.

"Hello," says the London voice.

"Hello. Who's this?" Fraser asks.

"Hello. There's actually nobody here. I just picked this up while I was passing by. This is a public
phone. There's no one here to answer actually."

"Hello. Don't hang up. I'm calling from the United States."

"Oh. What is the purpose of the call? This is a public phone you know."

"Oh. You know. To check out, uh, to find out what's going on in London. How is it there?"

"Its five o'clock in the morning. It's raining now."

"Oh. Who are you?"

The London passerby turns out to be an R.A.F. enlistee on his way back to the base in Lincolnshire,
with a terrible hangover after a thirty-six-hour pass. He and Fraser talk about the rain. They agree
that it's nicer when it's not raining. They say good-bye and Fraser hangs up. His dime returns with a
nice clink.

"Isn't that far out," he says grinning at me. "London, like that."

Fraser squeezes the little blue box affectionately in his palm. "I told ya this thing is for real.
Listen, if you don't mind I'm gonna try this girl I know in Paris. I usually give her a call around
this time. It freaks her out. This time I'll use the ------ (a different rent-a-car company) 800
number and we'll go by overseas cable, 133; 33 is the country code for France, the 1 sends you by
cable. Okay, here we go.... Oh damn. Busy. Who could she be talking to at this time?"

A state police car cruises slowly by the motel. The car does not stop, but Fraser gets nervous. We hop
back into his car and drive ten miles in the opposite direction until we reach a Texaco station locked
up for the night. We pull up to a phone booth by the tire pump. Fraser dashes inside and tries the
Paris number. It is busy again.

"I don't understand who she could be talking to. The circuits may be busy. It's too bad I haven't
learned how to tap into lines overseas with this thing yet."

Fraser begins to phreak around, as the phone phreaks say. He dials a leading nationwide charge card's
800 number and punches out the tones that bring him the time recording in Sydney, Australia. He beeps
up the weather recording in Rome, in Italian of course. He calls a friend in Boston and talks about a
certain over-the-counter stock they are into heavily. He finds the Paris number busy again. He calls
up "Dial a Disc" in London, and we listen to Double Barrel by David and Ansil Collins, the number-one
hit of the week in London. He calls up a dealer of another sort and talks in code. He calls up Joe
Engressia, the original blind phone-phreak genius, and pays his respects. There are other calls.
Finally Fraser gets through to his young lady in Paris.

They both agree the circuits must have been busy, and criticize the Paris telephone system. At
two-thirty in the morning Fraser hangs up, pockets his dime, and drives off, steering with one hand,
holding what he calls his "lovely little blue box" in the other.

You Can Call Long Distance For Less Than You Think

"You see, a few years ago the phone company made one big mistake," Gilbertson explains two days later
in his apartment. "They were careless enough to let some technical journal publish the actual
frequencies used to create all their multi-frequency tones. Just a theoretical article some Bell
Telephone Laboratories engineer was doing about switching theory, and he listed the tones in passing.
At ----- (a well-known technical school) I had been fooling around with phones for several years
before I came across a copy of the journal in the engineering library. I ran back to the lab and it
took maybe twelve hours from the time I saw that article to put together the first working blue box.
It was bigger and clumsier than this little baby, but it worked."

It's all there on public record in that technical journal written mainly by Bell Lab people for other
telephone engineers. Or at least it was public. "Just try and get a copy of that issue at some
engineering-school library now. Bell has had them all red-tagged and withdrawn from circulation,"
Gilbertson tells me.

"But it's too late. It's all public now. And once they became public the technology needed to create
your own beeper device is within the range of any twelve-year-old kid, any twelve-year-old blind kid
as a matter of fact. And he can do it in less than the twelve hours it took us. Blind kids do it all
the time. They can't build anything as precise and compact as my beeper box, but theirs can do
anything mine can do."


"Okay. About twenty years ago A.T.&T. made a multi-billion-dollar decision to operate its entire
long-distance switching system on twelve electronically generated combinations of twelve master tones.
Those are the tones you sometimes hear in the background after you've dialed a long-distance number.
They decided to use some very simple tones -- the tone for each number is just two fixed
single-frequency tones played simultaneously to create a certain beat frequency. Like 1300 cycles per
second and 900 cycles per second played together give you the tone for digit 5. Now, what some of
these phone phreaks have done is get themselves access to an electric organ. Any cheap family
home-entertainment organ. Since the frequencies are public knowledge now -- one blind phone phreak has
even had them recorded in one of the talking books for the blind -- they just have to find the musical
notes on the organ which correspond to the phone tones. Then they tape them. For instance, to get Ma
Bell's tone for the number 1, you press down organ keys F~5 and A~5 (900 and 700 cycles per second) at
the same time. To produce the tone for 2 it's F~5 and C~6 (1100 and 700 c.p.s). The phone phreaks
circulate the whole list of notes so there's no trial and error anymore."

He shows me a list of the rest of the phone numbers and the two electric organ keys that produce them.

"Actually, you have to record these notes at 3 3/4 inches-per-second tape speed and double it to 7 1/2
inches-per-second when you play them back, to get the proper tones," he adds.

"So once you have all the tones recorded, how do you plug them into the phone system?"

"Well, they take their organ and their cassette recorder, and start banging out entire phone numbers
in tones on the organ, including country codes, routing instructions, 'KP' and 'Start' tones. Or, if
they don't have an organ, someone in the phone-phreak network sends them a cassette with all the tones
recorded, with a voice saying 'Number one,' then you have the tone, 'Number two,' then the tone and so
on. So with two cassette recorders they can put together a series of phone numbers by switching back
and forth from number to number. Any idiot in the country with a cheap cassette recorder can make all
the free calls he wants."

"You mean you just hold the cassette recorder up the mouthpiece and switch in a series of beeps you've
recorded? The phone thinks that anything that makes these tones must be its own equipment?"

"Right. As long as you get the frequency within thirty cycles per second of the phone company's tones,
the phone equipment thinks it hears its own voice talking to it. The original granddaddy phone phreak
was this blind kid with perfect pitch, Joe Engressia, who used to whistle into the phone. An operator
could tell the difference between his whistle and the phone company's electronic tone generator, but
the phone company's switching circuit can't tell them apart. The bigger the phone company gets and the
further away from human operators it gets, the more vulnerable it becomes to all sorts of phone

A Guide for the Perplexed

"But wait a minute," I stop Gilbertson. "If everything you do sounds like phone-company equipment, why
doesn't the phone company charge you for the call the way it charges its own equipment?"

"Okay. That's where the 2600-cycle tone comes in. I better start from the beginning."

The beginning he describes for me is a vision of the phone system of the continent as thousands of
webs, of long-line trunks radiating from each of the hundreds of toll switching offices to the other
toll switching offices. Each toll switching office is a hive compacted of thousands of long-distance
tandems constantly whistling and beeping to tandems in far-off toll switching offices.

The tandem is the key to the whole system. Each tandem is a line with some relays with the capability
of signalling any other tandem in any other toll switching office on the continent, either directly
one-to-one or by programming a roundabout route through several other tandems if all the direct routes
are busy. For instance, if you want to call from New York to Los Angeles and traffic is heavy on all
direct trunks between the two cities, your tandem in New York is programmed to try the next best
route, which may send you down to a tandem in New Orleans, then up to San Francisco, or down to a New
Orleans tandem, back to an Atlanta tandem, over to an Albuquerque tandem and finally up to Los

When a tandem is not being used, when it's sitting there waiting for someone to make a long-distance
call, it whistles. One side of the tandem, the side "facing" your home phone, whistles at 2600 cycles
per second toward all the home phones serviced by the exchange, telling them it is at their service,
should they be interested in making a long-distance call. The other side of the tandem is whistling
2600 c.p.s. into one or more long-distance trunk lines, telling the rest of the phone system that it
is neither sending nor receiving a call through that trunk at the moment, that it has no use for that
trunk at the moment.

"When you dial a long-distance number the first thing that happens is that you are hooked into a
tandem. A register comes up to the side of the tandem facing away from you and presents that side with
the number you dialed. This sending side of the tandem stops whistling 2600 into its trunk line. When
a tandem stops the 2600 tone it has been sending through a trunk, the trunk is said to be "seized,"
and is now ready to carry the number you have dialed -- converted into multi-frequency beep tones --
to a tandem in the area code and central office you want.

Now when a blue-box operator wants to make a call from New Orleans to New York he starts by dialing
the 800 number of a company which might happen to have its headquarters in Los Angeles. The sending
side of the New Orleans tandem stops sending 2600 out over the trunk to the central office in Los
Angeles, thereby seizing the trunk. Your New Orleans tandem begins sending beep tones to a tandem it
has discovered idly whistling 2600 cycles in Los Angeles. The receiving end of that L.A. tandem is
seized, stops whistling 2600, listens to the beep tones which tell it which L.A. phone to ring, and
starts ringing the 800 number. Meanwhile a mark made in the New Orleans office accounting tape notes
that a call from your New Orleans phone to the 800 number in L.A. has been initiated and gives the
call a code number. Everything is routine so far.

But then the phone phreak presses his blue box to the mouthpiece and pushes the 2600-cycle button,
sending 2600 out from the New Orleans tandem to the L.A. tandem. The L.A. tandem notices 2600 cycles
are coming over the line again and assumes that New Orleans has hung up because the trunk is whistling
as if idle. The L.A. tandem immediately ceases ringing the L.A. 800 number. But as soon as the phreak
takes his finger off the 2600 button, the L.A. tandem assumes the trunk is once again being used
because the 2600 is gone, so it listens for a new series of digit tones - to find out where it must
send the call.

Thus the blue-box operator in New Orleans now is in touch with a tandem in L.A. which is waiting like
an obedient genie to be told what to do next. The blue-box owner then beeps out the ten digits of the
New York number which tell the L.A. tandem to relay a call to New York City. Which it promptly does.
As soon as your party picks up the phone in New York, the side of the New Orleans tandem facing you
stops sending 2600 cycles to you and stars carrying his voice to you by way of the L.A. tandem. A
notation is made on the accounting tape that the connection has been made on the 800 call which had
been initiated and noted earlier. When you stop talking to New York a notation is made that the 800
call has ended.

At three the next morning, when the phone company's accounting computer starts reading back over the
master accounting tape for the past day, it records that a call of a certain length of time was made
from your New Orleans home to an L.A. 800 number and, of course, the accounting computer has been
trained to ignore those toll-free 800 calls when compiling your monthly bill.

"All they can prove is that you made an 800 toll-free call," Gilbertson the inventor concludes. "Of
course, if you're foolish enough to talk for two hours on an 800 call, and they've installed one of
their special anti-fraud computer programs to watch out for such things, they may spot you and ask why
you took two hours talking to Army Recruiting's 800 number when you're 4-F.

But if you do it from a pay phone, they may discover something peculiar the next day -- if they've got
a blue-box hunting program in their computer -- but you'll be a long time gone from the pay phone by
then. Using a pay phone is almost guaranteed safe."

"What about the recent series of blue-box arrests all across the country -- New York, Cleveland, and
so on?" I asked. "How were they caught so easily?"

"From what I can tell, they made one big mistake: they were seizing trunks using an area code plus
555-1212 instead of an 800 number. Using 555 is easy to detect because when you send multi-frequency
beep tones of 555 you get a charge for it on your tape and the accounting computer knows there's
something wrong when it tries to bill you for a two-hour call to Akron, Ohio, information, and it
drops a trouble card which goes right into the hands of the security agent if they're looking for
blue-box user.

"Whoever sold those guys their blue boxes didn't tell them how to use them properly, which is fairly
irresponsible. And they were fairly stupid to use them at home all the time.

"But what those arrests really mean is than an awful lot of blue boxes are flooding into the country
and that people are finding them so easy to make that they know how to make them before they know how
to use them. Ma Bell is in trouble."

And if a blue-box operator or a cassette-recorder phone phreak sticks to pay phones and 800 numbers,
the phone company can't stop them?

"Not unless they change their entire nationwide long-lines technology, which will take them a few
billion dollars and twenty years. Right now they can't do a thing. They're screwed."

Captain Crunch Demonstrates His Famous Unit

There is an underground telephone network in this country. Gilbertson discovered it the very day news
of his activities hit the papers. That evening his phone began ringing. Phone phreaks from Seattle,
from Florida, from New York, from San Jose, and from Los Angeles began calling him and telling him
about the phone-phreak network. He'd get a call from a phone phreak who'd say nothing but, "Hang up
and call this number."

When he dialed the number he'd find himself tied into a conference of a dozen phone phreaks arranged
through a quirky switching station in British Columbia. They identified themselves as phone phreaks,
they demonstrated their homemade blue boxes which they called "M-Fers" (for "multi-frequency," among
other things) for him, they talked shop about phone-phreak devices. They let him in on their secrets
on the theory that if the phone company was after him he must be trustworthy. And, Gilbertson recalls,
they stunned him with their technical sophistication.

I ask him how to get in touch with the phone-phreak network. He digs around through a file of old
schematics and comes up with about a dozen numbers in three widely separated area codes.

"Those are the centers," he tells me. Alongside some of the numbers he writes in first names or
nicknames: names like Captain Crunch, Dr. No, Frank Carson (also a code word for a free call), Marty
Freeman (code word for M-F device), Peter Perpendicular Pimple, Alefnull, and The Cheshire Cat. He
makes checks alongside the names of those among these top twelve who are blind. There are five checks.

I ask him who this Captain Crunch person is.

"Oh. The Captain. He's probably the most legendary phone phreak. He calls himself Captain Crunch after
the notorious Cap'n Crunch 2600 whistle." (Several years ago, Gilbertson explains, the makers of Cap'n
Crunch breakfast cereal offered a toy-whistle prize in every box as a treat for the Cap'n Crunch set.
Somehow a phone phreak discovered that the toy whistle just happened to produce a perfect 2600-cycle
tone. When the man who calls himself Captain Crunch was transferred overseas to England with his Air
Force unit, he would receive scores of calls from his friends and "mute" them -- make them free of
charge to them -- by blowing his Cap'n Crunch whistle into his end.) "Captain Crunch is one of the
older phone phreaks," Gilbertson tells me. "He's an engineer who once got in a little trouble for
fooling around with the phone, but he can't stop. Well, they guy drives across country in a Volkswagen
van with an entire switchboard and a computerized super-sophisticated M-F-er in the back. He'll pull
up to a phone booth on a lonely highway somewhere, snake a cable out of his bus, hook it onto the
phone and sit for hours, days sometimes, sending calls zipping back and forth across the country, all
over the world...."

Back at my motel, I dialed the number he gave me for "Captain Crunch" and asked for G---- T-----, his
real name, or at least the name he uses when he's not dashing into a phone booth beeping out M-F tones
faster than a speeding bullet and zipping phantomlike through the phone company's long-distance lines.

When G---- T----- answered the phone and I told him I was preparing a story for Esquire about phone
phreaks, he became very indignant.

"I don't do that. I don't do that anymore at all. And if I do it, I do it for one reason and one
reason only. I'm learning about a system. The phone company is a System. A computer is a System, do
you understand? If I do what I do, it is only to explore a system. Computers, systems, that's my bag.
The phone company is nothing but a computer."

A tone of tightly restrained excitement enters the Captain's voice when he starts talking about
systems. He begins to pronounce each syllable with the hushed deliberation of an obscene caller.

"Ma Bell is a system I want to explore. It's a beautiful system, you know, but Ma Bell screwed up.
It's terrible because Ma Bell is such a beautiful system, but she screwed up. I learned how she
screwed up from a couple of blind kids who wanted me to build a device. A certain device. They said it
could make free calls. I wasn't interested in free calls. But when these blind kids told me I could
make calls into a computer, my eyes lit up. I wanted to learn about computers. I wanted to learn about
Ma Bell's computers. So I build the little device, but I built it wrong and Ma Bell found out. Ma Bell
can detect things like that. Ma Bell knows. So I'm strictly rid of it now. I don't do it. Except for
learning purposes." He pauses. "So you want to write an article. Are you paying for this call? Hang up
and call this number." He gives me a number in a area code a thousand miles away of his own. I dial
the number.

"Hello again. This is Captain Crunch. You are speaking to me on a toll-free loop-around in Portland,
Oregon. Do you know what a toll-free loop around is? I'll tell you.

He explains to me that almost every exchange in the country has open test numbers which allow other
exchanges to test their connections with it. Most of these numbers occur in consecutive pairs, such as
302 956-0041 and 302 956-0042. Well, certain phone phreaks discovered that if two people from anywhere
in the country dial the two consecutive numbers they can talk together just as if one had called the
other's number, with no charge to either of them, of course.

"Now our voice is looping around in a 4A switching machine up there in Canada, zipping back down to
me," the Captain tells me. "My voice is looping around up there and back down to you. And it can't
ever cost anyone money. The phone phreaks and I have compiled a list of many many of these numbers.
You would be surprised if you saw the list. I could show it to you. But I won't. I'm out of that now.
I'm not out to screw Ma Bell. I know better. If I do anything it's for the pure knowledge of the
System. You can learn to do fantastic things. Have you ever heard eight tandems stacked up? Do you
know the sound of tandems stacking and unstacking? Give me your phone number. Okay. Hang up now and
wait a minute."

Slightly less than a minute later the phone rang and the Captain was on the line, his voice sounding
far more excited, almost aroused.

"I wanted to show you what it's like to stack up tandems. To stack up tandems." (Whenever the Captain
says "stack up" it sounds as if he is licking his lips.)

"How do you like the connection you're on now?" the Captain asks me. "It's a raw tandem. A raw tandem.
Ain't nothin' up to it but a tandem. Now I'm going to show you what it's like to stack up. Blow off.
Land in a far away place. To stack that tandem up, whip back and forth across the country a few times,
then shoot on up to Moscow.

"Listen," Captain Crunch continues. "Listen. I've got line tie on my switchboard here, and I'm gonna
let you hear me stack and unstack tandems. Listen to this. It's gonna blow your mind."

First I hear a super rapid-fire pulsing of the flutelike phone tones, then a pause, then another
popping burst of tones, then another, then another. Each burst is followed by a beep-kachink sound.

"We have now stacked up four tandems," said Captain Crunch, sounding somewhat remote. "That's four
tandems stacked up. Do you know what that means? That means I'm whipping back and forth, back and
forth twice, across the country, before coming to you. I've been known to stack up twenty tandems at a
time. Now, just like I said, I'm going to shoot up to Moscow."

There is a new, longer series of beeper pulses over the line, a brief silence, then a ring.

"Hello," answers a far-off voice.

"Hello. Is this the American Embassy Moscow?"

"Yes, sir. Who is this calling?" says the voice.

"Yes. This is test board here in New York. We're calling to check out the circuits, see what kind of
lines you've got. Everything okay there in Moscow?"


"Well, yes, how are things there?"

"Oh. Well, everything okay, I guess."

"Okay. Thank you."

They hang up, leaving a confused series of beep-kachink sounds hanging in mid-ether in the wake of the
call before dissolving away.

The Captain is pleased. "You believe me now, don't you? Do you know what I'd like to do? I'd just like
to call up your editor at Esquire and show him just what it sounds like to stack and unstack tandems.
I'll give him a show that will blow his mind. What's his number?

I ask the Captain what kind of device he was using to accomplish all his feats. The Captain is pleased
at the question.

"You could tell it was special, couldn't you?" Ten pulses per second. That's faster than the phone
company's equipment. Believe me, this unit is the most famous unit in the country. There is no other
unit like it. Believe me."

"Yes, I've heard about it. Some other phone phreaks have told me about it."

"They have been referring to my, ahem, unit? What is it they said? Just out of curiosity, did they
tell you it was a highly sophisticated computer-operated unit, with acoustical coupling for receiving
outputs and a switch-board with multiple-line-tie capability? Did they tell you that the frequency
tolerance is guaranteed to be not more than .05 percent? The amplitude tolerance less than .01
decibel? Those pulses you heard were perfect. They just come faster than the phone company. Those were
high-precision op-amps. Op-amps are instrumentation amplifiers designed for ultra-stable
amplification, super-low distortion and accurate frequency response. Did they tell you it can operate
in temperatures from -55 degrees C to +125 degrees C?"

I admit that they did not tell me all that.

"I built it myself," the Captain goes on. "If you were to go out and buy the components from an
industrial wholesaler it would cost you at least $1500. I once worked for a semiconductor company and
all this didn't cost me a cent. Do you know what I mean? Did they tell you about how I put a call
completely around the world? I'll tell you how I did it. I M-Fed Tokyo inward, who connected me to
India, India connected me to Greece, Greece connected me to Pretoria, South Africa, South Africa
connected me to South America, I went from South America to London, I had a London operator connect me
to a New York operator, I had New York connect me to a California operator who rang the phone next to
me. Needless to say I had to shout to hear myself. But the echo was far out. Fantastic. Delayed. It
was delayed twenty seconds, but I could hear myself talk to myself."

"You mean you were speaking into the mouthpiece of one phone sending your voice around the world into
your ear through a phone on the other side of your head?" I asked the Captain. I had a vision of
something vaguely autoerotic going on, in a complex electronic way.

"That's right," said the Captain. "I've also sent my voice around the world one way, going east on one
phone, and going west on the other, going through cable one way, satellite the other, coming back
together at the same time, ringing the two phones simultaneously and picking them up and whipping my
voice both ways around the world back to me. Wow. That was a mind blower."

"You mean you sit there with both phones on your ear and talk to yourself around the world," I said

"Yeah. Um hum. That's what I do. I connect the phone together and sit there and talk."

"What do you say? What do you say to yourself when you're connected?"

"Oh, you know. Hello test one two three," he says in a low-pitched voice.

"Hello test one two three," he replied to himself in a high-pitched voice.

"Hello test one two three," he repeats again, low-pitched.

"Hello test one two three," he replies, high-pitched.

"I sometimes do this: Hello Hello Hello Hello, Hello, hello," he trails off and breaks into laughter.

Why Captain Crunch Hardly Ever Taps Phones Anymore

Using internal phone-company codes, phone phreaks have learned a simple method for tapping phones.
Phone-company operators have in front of them a board that holds verification jacks. It allows them to
plug into conversations in case of emergency, to listen in to a line to determine if the line is busy
or the circuits are busy. Phone phreaks have learned to beep out the codes which lead them to a
verification operator, tell the verification operator they are switchmen from some other area code
testing out verification trunks. Once the operator hooks them into the verification trunk, they
disappear into the board for all practical purposes, slip unnoticed into any one of the 10,000 to
100,000 numbers in that central office without the verification operator knowing what they're doing,
and of course without the two parties to the connection knowing there is a phantom listener present on
their line.

Toward the end of my hour-long first conversation with him, I asked the Captain if he ever tapped

"Oh no. I don't do that. I don't think it's right," he told me firmly. "I have the power to do it but
I don't... Well one time, just one time, I have to admit that I did. There was this girl, Linda, and I
wanted to find out... you know. I tried to call her up for a date. I had a date with her the last
weekend and I thought she liked me. I called her up, man, and her line was busy, and I kept calling
and it was still busy. Well, I had just learned about this system of jumping into lines and I said to
myself, 'Hmmm. Why not just see if it works. It'll surprise her if all of a sudden I should pop up on
her line. It'll impress her, if anything.' So I went ahead and did it. I M-Fed into the line. My
M-F-er is powerful enough when patched directly into the mouthpiece to trigger a verification trunk
without using an operator the way the other phone phreaks have to.

"I slipped into the line and there she was talking to another boyfriend. Making sweet talk to him. I
didn't make a sound because I was so disgusted. So I waited there for her to hang up, listening to her
making sweet talk to the other guy. You know. So as soon as she hung up I instantly M-F-ed her up and
all I said was, 'Linda, we're through.' And I hung up. And it blew her head off. She couldn't figure
out what the hell happened.

"But that was the only time. I did it thinking I would surprise her, impress her. Those were all my
intentions were, and well, it really kind of hurt me pretty badly, and... and ever since then I don't
go into verification trunks."

Moments later my first conversation with the Captain comes to a close.

"Listen," he says, his spirits somewhat cheered, "listen. What you are going to hear when I hang up is
the sound of tandems unstacking. Layer after layer of tandems unstacking until there's nothing left of
the stack, until it melts away into nothing. Cheep, cheep, cheep, cheep," he concludes, his voice
descending to a whisper with each cheep.

He hangs up. The phone suddenly goes into four spasms: kachink cheep. Kachink cheep kachink cheep
kachink cheep, and the complex connection has wiped itself out like the Cheshire cat's smile.

The MF Boogie Blues

The next number I choose from the select list of phone-phreak alumni, prepared for me by the blue-box
inventor, is a Memphis number. It is the number of Joe Engressia, the first and still perhaps the most
accomplished blind phone phreak.

Three years ago Engressia was a nine-day wonder in newspapers and magazines all over America because
he had been discovered whistling free long-distance connections for fellow students at the University
of South Florida. Engressia was born with perfect pitch: he could whistle phone tones better than the
phone-company's equipment.

Engressia might have gone on whistling in the dark for a few friends for the rest of his life if the
phone company hadn't decided to expose him. He was warned, disciplined by the college, and the whole
case became public. In the months following media reports of his talent, Engressia began receiving
strange calls. There were calls from a group of kids in Los Angeles who could do some very strange
things with the quirky General Telephone and Electronics circuitry in L.A. suburbs. There were calls
from a group of mostly blind kids in ----, California, who had been doing some interesting experiments
with Cap'n Crunch whistles and test loops. There was a group in Seattle, a group in Cambridge,
Massachusetts, a few from New York, a few scattered across the country. Some of them had already
equipped themselves with cassette and electronic M-F devices. For some of these groups, it was the
first time they knew of the others.

The exposure of Engressia was the catalyst that linked the separate phone-phreak centers together.
They all called Engressia. They talked to him about what he was doing and what they were doing. And
then he told them -- the scattered regional centers and lonely independent phone phreakers -- about
each other, gave them each other's numbers to call, and within a year the scattered phone-phreak
centers had grown into a nationwide underground.

Joe Engressia is only twenty-two years old now, but along the phone-phreak network he is "the old
man," accorded by phone phreaks something of the reverence the phone company bestows on Alexander
Graham Bell. He seldom needs to make calls anymore. The phone phreaks all call him and let him know
what new tricks, new codes, new techniques they have learned. Every night he sits like a sightless
spider in his little apartment receiving messages from every tendril of his web. It is almost a point
of pride with Joe that they call him.

But when I reached him in his Memphis apartment that night, Joe Engressia was lonely, jumpy and upset.

"God, I'm glad somebody called. I don't know why tonight of all nights I don't get any calls. This guy
around here got drunk again tonight and propositioned me again. I keep telling him we'll never see eye
to eye on this subject, if you know what I mean. I try to make light of it, you know, but he doesn't
get it. I can head him out there getting drunker and I don't know what he'll do next. It's just that
I'm really all alone here, just moved to Memphis, it's the first time I'm living on my own, and I'd
hate for it to all collapse now. But I won't go to bed with him. I'm just not very interested in sex
and even if I can't see him I know he's ugly.

"Did you hear that? That's him banging a bottle against the wall outside. He's nice. Well forget about
it. You're doing a story on phone phreaks? Listen to this. It's the MF Boogie Blues.

Sure enough, a jumpy version of Muskrat Ramble boogies its way over the line, each note one of those
long-distance phone tones. The music stops. A huge roaring voice blasts the phone off my ear: "AND THE

The roar ceases. A high-pitched operator-type voice replaces it. "This is Southern Braille Tel. & Tel.
Have tone, will phone."

This is succeeded by a quick series of M-F tones, a swift "kachink" and a deep reassuring voice: "If
you need home care, call the visiting-nurses association. First National time in Honolulu is 4:32

Joe back in his Joe voice again: "Are we seeing eye to eye? 'Si, si,' said the blind Mexican. Ahem.
Yes. Would you like to know the weather in Tokyo?"

This swift manic sequence of phone-phreak vaudeville stunts and blind-boy jokes manages to keep Joe's
mind off his tormentor only as long as it lasts.

"The reason I'm in Memphis, the reason I have to depend on that homosexual guy, is that this is the
first time I've been able to live on my own and make phone trips on my own. I've been banned from all
central offices around home in Florida, they knew me too well, and at the University some of my fellow
scholars were always harassing me because I was on the dorm pay phone all the time and making fun of
me because of my fat ass, which of course I do have, it's my physical fatness program, but I don't
like to hear it every day, and if I can't phone trip and I can't phone phreak, I can't imagine what
I'd do, I've been devoting three quarters of my life to it.

"I moved to Memphis because I wanted to be on my own as well as because it has a Number 5 crossbar
switching system and some interesting little independent phone-company districts nearby and so far
they don't seem to know who I am so I can go on phone tripping, and for me phone tripping is just as
important as phone phreaking."

Phone tripping, Joe explains, begins with calling up a central-office switch room. He tells the
switchman in a polite earnest voice that he's a blind college student interested in telephones, and
could he perhaps have a guided tour of the switching station? Each step of the tour Joe likes to touch
and feel relays, caress switching circuits, switchboards, crossbar arrangements.

So when Joe Engressia phone phreaks he feels his way through the circuitry of the country garden of
forking paths, he feels switches shift, relays shunt, crossbars swivel, tandems engage and disengage
even as he hears -- with perfect pitch -- his M-F pulses make the entire Bell system dance to his

Just one month ago Joe took all his savings out of his bank and left home, over the emotional protests
of his mother. "I ran away from home almost," he likes to say. Joe found a small apartment house on
Union Avenue and began making phone trips. He'd take a bus a hundred miles south in Mississippi to see
some old-fashioned Bell equipment still in use in several states, which had been puzzling. He'd take a
bus three hundred miles to Charlotte, North Carolina, to look at some brand-new experimental
equipment. He hired a taxi to drive him twelve miles to a suburb to tour the office of a small phone
company with some interesting idiosyncrasies in its routing system. He was having the time of his
life, he said, the most freedom and pleasure he had known.

In that month he had done very little long-distance phone phreaking from his own phone. He had begun
to apply for a job with the phone company, he told me, and he wanted to stay away from anything

"Any kind of job will do, anything as menial as the most lowly operator. That's probably all they'd
give me because I'm blind. Even though I probably know more than most switchmen. But that's okay. I
want to work for Ma Bell. I don't hate Ma Bell the way Gilbertson and some phone phreaks do. I don't
want to screw Ma Bell. With me it's the pleasure of pure knowledge. There's something beautiful about
the system when you know it intimately the way I do. But I don't know how much they know about me
here. I have a very intuitive feel for the condition of the line I'm on, and I think they're
monitoring me off and on lately, but I haven't been doing much illegal. I have to make a few calls to
switchmen once in a while which aren't strictly legal, and once I took an acid trip and was having
these auditory hallucinations as if I were trapped and these planes were dive-bombing me, and all of
sudden I had to phone phreak out of there. For some reason I had to call Kansas City, but that's all."

A Warning Is Delivered

At this point -- one o'clock in my time zone -- a loud knock on my motel-room door interrupts our
conversation. Outside the door I find a uniformed security guard who informs me that there has been an
"emergency phone call" for me while I have been on the line and that the front desk has sent him up to
let me know.

Two seconds after I say good-bye to Joe and hang up, the phone rings.

"Who were you talking to?" the agitated voice demands. The voice belongs to Captain Crunch. "I called
because I decided to warn you of something. I decided to warn you to be careful. I don't want this
information you get to get to the radical underground. I don't want it to get into the wrong hands.
What would you say if I told you it's possible for three phone phreaks to saturate the phone system of
the nation. Saturate it. Busy it out. All of it. I know how to do this. I'm not gonna tell. A friend
of mine has already saturated the trunks between Seattle and New York. He did it with a computerized
M-F-er hitched into a special Manitoba exchange. But there are other, easier ways to do it."

Just three people? I ask. How is that possible?

"Have you ever heard of the long-lines guard frequency? Do you know about stacking tandems with 17 and
2600? Well, I'd advise you to find out about it. I'm not gonna tell you. But whatever you do, don't
let this get into the hands of the radical underground."

(Later Gilbertson, the inventor, confessed that while he had always been skeptical about the Captain's
claim of the sabotage potential of trunk-tying phone phreaks, he had recently heard certain
demonstrations which convinced him the Captain was not speaking idly. "I think it might take more than
three people, depending on how many machines like Captain Crunch's were available. But even though the
Captain sounds a little weird, he generally turns out to know what he's talking about.")

"You know," Captain Crunch continues in his admonitory tone, "you know the younger phone phreaks call
Moscow all the time. Suppose everybody were to call Moscow. I'm no right-winger. But I value my life.
I don't want the Commies coming over and dropping a bomb on my head. That's why I say you've got to be
careful about who gets this information."

The Captain suddenly shifts into a diatribe against those phone phreaks who don't like the phone

"They don't understand, but Ma Bell knows everything they do. Ma Bell knows. Listen, is this line hot?
I just heard someone tap in. I'm not paranoid, but I can detect things like that. Well, even if it is,
they know that I know that they know that I have a bulk eraser. I'm very clean." The Captain pauses,
evidently torn between wanting to prove to the phone-company monitors that he does nothing illegal,
and the desire to impress Ma Bell with his prowess. "Ma Bell knows how good I am. And I am quite good.
I can detect reversals, tandem switching, everything that goes on on a line. I have relative pitch
now. Do you know what that means? My ears are a $20,000 piece of equipment. With my ears I can detect
things they can't hear with their equipment. I've had employment problems. I've lost jobs. But I want
to show Ma Bell how good I am. I don't want to screw her, I want to work for her. I want to do good
for her. I want to help her get rid of her flaws and become perfect. That's my number-one goal in life
now." The Captain concludes his warnings and tells me he has to be going. "I've got a little action
lined up for tonight," he explains and hangs up.

Before I hang up for the night, I call Joe Engressia back. He reports that his tormentor has finally
gone to sleep -- "He's not blind drunk, that's the way I get, ahem, yes; but you might say he's in a
drunken stupor." I make a date to visit Joe in Memphis in two days.

A Phone Phreak Call Takes Care of Business

The next morning I attend a gathering of four phone phreaks in ----- (a California suburb). The
gathering takes place in a comfortable split-level home in an upper-middle-class subdivision. Heaped
on the kitchen table are the portable cassette recorders, M-F cassettes, phone patches, and line ties
of the four phone phreaks present. On the kitchen counter next to the telephone is a shoe-box-size
blue box with thirteen large toggle switches for the tones. The parents of the host phone phreak,
Ralph, who is blind, stay in the living room with their sighted children. They are not sure exactly
what Ralph and his friends do with the phone or if it's strictly legal, but he is blind and they are
pleased he has a hobby which keeps him busy.

The group has been working at reestablishing the historic "2111" conference, reopening some toll-free
loops, and trying to discover the dimensions of what seem to be new initiatives against phone phreaks
by phone-company security agents.

It is not long before I get a chance to see, to hear, Randy at work. Randy is known among the phone
phreaks as perhaps the finest con man in the game. Randy is blind. He is pale, soft and pear-shaped,
he wears baggy pants and a wrinkly nylon white sport shirt, pushes his head forward from hunched
shoulders somewhat like a turtle inching out of its shell. His eyes wander, crossing and recrossing,
and his forehead is somewhat pimply. He is only sixteen years old.

But when Randy starts speaking into a telephone mouthpiece his voice becomes so stunningly
authoritative it is necessary to look again to convince yourself it comes from a chubby adolescent
Randy. Imagine the voice of a crack oil-rig foreman, a tough, sharp, weather-beaten Marlboro man of
forty. Imagine the voice of a brilliant performance-fund gunslinger explaining how he beats the Dow
Jones by thirty percent. Then imagine a voice that could make those two sound like Stepin Fetchit.
That is sixteen-year-old Randy's voice.

He is speaking to a switchman in Detroit. The phone company in Detroit had closed up two toll-free
loop pairs for no apparent reason, although heavy use by phone phreaks all over the country may have
been detected. Randy is telling the switchman how to open up the loop and make it free again:

"How are you, buddy. Yeah. I'm on the board in here in Tulsa, Oklahoma, and we've been trying to run
some tests on your loop-arounds and we find'em busied out on both sides.... Yeah, we've been getting a
'BY' on them, what d'ya say, can you drop cards on 'em? Do you have 08 on your number group? Oh that's
okay, we've had this trouble before, we may have to go after the circuit. Here lemme give 'em to you:
your frame is 05, vertical group 03, horizontal 5, vertical file 3. Yeah, we'll hang on here.... Okay,
found it? Good. Right, yeah, we'd like to clear that busy out. Right. All you have to do is look for
your key on the mounting plate, it's in your miscellaneous trunk frame. Okay? Right. Now pull your key
from NOR over the LCT. Yeah. I don't know why that happened, but we've been having trouble with that
one. Okay. Thanks a lot fella. Be seein' ya."

Randy hangs up, reports that the switchman was a little inexperienced with the loop-around circuits on
the miscellaneous trunk frame, but that the loop has been returned to its free-call status.

Delighted, phone phreak Ed returns the pair of numbers to the active-status column in his directory.
Ed is a superb and painstaking researcher. With almost Talmudic thoroughness he will trace tendrils of
hints through soft-wired mazes of intervening phone-company circuitry back through complex linkages of
switching relays to find the location and identity of just one toll-free loop. He spends hours and
hours, every day, doing this sort of thing. He has somehow compiled a directory of eight hundred
"Band-six in-WATS numbers" located in over forty states. Band-six in-WATS numbers are the big 800
numbers -- the ones that can be dialed into free from anywhere in the country.

Ed the researcher, a nineteen-year-old engineering student, is also a superb technician. He put
together his own working blue box from scratch at age seventeen. (He is sighted.) This evening after
distributing the latest issue of his in-WATS directory (which has been typed into Braille for the
blind phone phreaks), he announces he has made a major new breakthrough:

"I finally tested it and it works, perfectly. I've got this switching matrix which converts any
touch-tone phone into an M-F-er."

The tones you hear in touch-tone phones are not the M-F tones that operate the long-distance switching
system. Phone phreaks believe A.T.&T. had deliberately equipped touch tones with a different set of
frequencies to avoid putting the six master M-F tones in the hands of every touch-tone owner. Ed's
complex switching matrix puts the six master tones, in effect put a blue box, in the hands of every
touch-tone owner.

Ed shows me pages of schematics, specifications and parts lists. "It's not easy to build, but
everything here is in the Heathkit catalog."

Ed asks Ralph what progress he has made in his attempts to reestablish a long-term open conference
line for phone phreaks. The last big conference -- the historic "2111" conference -- had been arranged
through an unused Telex test-board trunk somewhere in the innards of a 4A switching machine in
Vancouver, Canada. For months phone phreaks could M-F their way into Vancouver, beep out 604 (the
Vancouver area code) and then beep out 2111 (the internal phone-company code for Telex testing), and
find themselves at any time, day or night, on an open wire talking with an array of phone phreaks from
coast to coast, operators from Bermuda, Tokyo and London who are phone-phreak sympathizers, and
miscellaneous guests and technical experts. The conference was a massive exchange of information.
Phone phreaks picked each other's brains clean, then developed new ways to pick the phone company's
brains clean. Ralph gave M F Boogies concerts with his home-entertainment-type electric organ, Captain
Crunch demonstrated his round-the-world prowess with his notorious computerized unit and dropped
leering hints of the "action" he was getting with his girl friends. (The Captain lives out or pretends
to live out several kinds of fantasies to the gossipy delight of the blind phone phreaks who urge him
on to further triumphs on behalf of all of them.) The somewhat rowdy Northwest phone-phreak crowd let
their bitter internal feud spill over into the peaceable conference line, escalating shortly into
guerrilla warfare; Carl the East Coast international tone relations expert demonstrated newly opened
direct M-F routes to central offices on the island of Bahrein in the Persian Gulf, introduced a new
phone-phreak friend of his in Pretoria, and explained the technical operation of the new Oakland-to
Vietnam linkages. (Many phone phreaks pick up spending money by M-F-ing calls from relatives to
Vietnam G.I.'s, charging $5 for a whole hour of trans-Pacific conversation.)

Day and night the conference line was never dead. Blind phone phreaks all over the country, lonely and
isolated in homes filled with active sighted brothers and sisters, or trapped with slow and
unimaginative blind kids in straitjacket schools for the blind, knew that no matter how late it got
they could dial up the conference and find instant electronic communion with two or three other blind
kids awake over on the other side of America. Talking together on a phone hookup, the blind phone
phreaks say, is not much different from being there together. Physically, there was nothing more than
a two-inch-square wafer of titanium inside a vast machine on Vancouver Island. For the blind kids
>there< meant an exhilarating feeling of being in touch, through a kind of skill and magic which was
peculiarly their own.

Last April 1, however, the long Vancouver Conference was shut off. The phone phreaks knew it was
coming. Vancouver was in the process of converting from a step-by-step system to a 4A machine and the
2111 Telex circuit was to be wiped out in the process. The phone phreaks learned the actual day on
which the conference would be erased about a week ahead of time over the phone company's
internal-news-and-shop-talk recording.

For the next frantic seven days every phone phreak in America was on and off the 2111 conference
twenty-four hours a day. Phone phreaks who were just learning the game or didn't have M-F capability
were boosted up to the conference by more experienced phreaks so they could get a glimpse of what it
was like before it disappeared. Top phone phreaks searched distant area codes for new conference
possibilities without success. Finally in the early morning of April 1, the end came.

"I could feel it coming a couple hours before midnight," Ralph remembers. "You could feel something
going on in the lines. Some static began showing up, then some whistling wheezing sound. Then there
were breaks. Some people got cut off and called right back in, but after a while some people were
finding they were cut off and couldn't get back in at all. It was terrible. I lost it about one a.m.,
but managed to slip in again and stay on until the thing died... I think it was about four in the
morning. There were four of us still hanging on when the conference disappeared into nowhere for good.
We all tried to M-F up to it again of course, but we got silent termination. There was nothing there."

The Legendary Mark Bernay Turns Out To Be "The Midnight Skulker"

Mark Bernay. I had come across that name before. It was on Gilbertson's select list of phone phreaks.
The California phone phreaks had spoken of a mysterious Mark Bernay as perhaps the first and oldest
phone phreak on the West Coast. And in fact almost every phone phreak in the West can trace his
origins either directly to Mark Bernay or to a disciple of Mark Bernay.

It seems that five years ago this Mark Bernay (a pseudonym he chose for himself) began traveling up
and down the West Coast pasting tiny stickers in phone books all along his way. The stickers read
something like "Want to hear an interesting tape recording? Call these numbers." The numbers that
followed were toll-free loop-around pairs. When one of the curious called one of the numbers he would
hear a tape recording pre-hooked into the loop by Bernay which explained the use of loop-around pairs,
gave the numbers of several more, and ended by telling the caller, "At six o'clock tonight this
recording will stop and you and your friends can try it out. Have fun."

"I was disappointed by the response at first," Bernay told me, when I finally reached him at one of
his many numbers and he had dispensed with the usual "I never do anything illegal" formalities which
experienced phone phreaks open most conversations.

"I went all over the coast with these stickers not only on pay phones, but I'd throw them in front of
high schools in the middle of the night, I'd leave them unobtrusively in candy stores, scatter them on
main streets of small towns. At first hardly anyone bothered to try it out. I would listen in for
hours and hours after six o'clock and no one came on. I couldn't figure out why people wouldn't be
interested. Finally these two girls in Oregon tried it out and told all their friends and suddenly it
began to spread."

Before his Johny Appleseed trip Bernay had already gathered a sizable group of early pre-blue-box
phone phreaks together on loop-arounds in Los Angeles. Bernay does not claim credit for the original
discovery of the loop-around numbers. He attributes the discovery to an eighteen-year-old reform
school kid in Long Beach whose name he forgets and who, he says, "just disappeared one day." When
Bernay himself discovered loop-arounds independently, from clues in his readings in old issues of the
Automatic Electric Technical Journal, he found dozens of the reform-school kid's friends already using
them. However, it was one of Bernay's disciples in Seattle that introduced phone phreaking to blind
kids. The Seattle kid who learned about loops through Bernay's recording told a blind friend, the
blind kid taught the secret to his friends at a winter camp for blind kids in Los Angeles. When the
camp session was over these kids took the secret back to towns all over the West. This is how the
original blind kids became phone phreaks. For them, for most phone phreaks in general, it was the
discovery of the possibilities of loop-arounds which led them on to far more serious and sophisticated
phone-phreak methods, and which gave them a medium for sharing their discoveries.

A year later a blind kid who moved back east brought the technique to a blind kids' summer camp in
Vermont, which spread it along the East Coast. All from a Mark Bernay sticker.

Bernay, who is nearly thirty years old now, got his start when he was fifteen and his family moved
into an L.A. suburb serviced by General Telephone and Electronics equipment. He became fascinated with
the differences between Bell and G.T.&E. equipment. He learned he could make interesting things happen
by carefully timed clicks with the disengage button. He learned to interpret subtle differences in the
array of clicks, whirrs and kachinks he could hear on his lines. He learned he could shift himself
around the switching relays of the L.A. area code in a not-too-predictable fashion by interspersing
his own hook-switch clicks with the clicks within the line. (Independent phone companies -- there are
nineteen hundred of them still left, most of them tiny island principalities in Ma Bell's vast empire
-- have always been favorites with phone phreaks, first as learning tools, then as Archimedes
platforms from which to manipulate the huge Bell system. A phone phreak in Bell territory will often
M-F himself into an independent's switching system, with switching idiosyncrasies which can give him
marvelous leverage over the Bell System.

"I have a real affection for Automatic Electric Equipment," Bernay told me. "There are a lot of things
you can play with. Things break down in interesting ways."

Shortly after Bernay graduated from college (with a double major in chemistry and philosophy), he
graduated from phreaking around with G.T.&E. to the Bell System itself, and made his legendary
sticker-pasting journey north along the coast, settling finally in Northwest Pacific Bell territory.
He discovered that if Bell does not break down as interestingly as G.T.&E., it nevertheless offers a
lot of "things to play with."

Bernay learned to play with blue boxes. He established his own personal switchboard and phone-phreak
research laboratory complex. He continued his phone-phreak evangelism with ongoing sticker campaigns.
He set up two recording numbers, one with instructions for beginning phone phreaks, the other with
latest news and technical developments (along with some advanced instruction) gathered from sources
all over the country.

These days, Bernay told me, he had gone beyond phone-phreaking itself. "Lately I've been enjoying
playing with computers more than playing with phones. My personal thing in computers is just like with
phones, I guess -- the kick is in finding out how to beat the system, how to get at things I'm not
supposed to know about, how to do things with the system that I'm not supposed to be able to do."

As a matter of fact, Bernay told me, he had just been fired from his computer-programming job for
doing things he was not supposed to be able to do. he had been working with a huge time-sharing
computer owned by a large corporation but shared by many others. Access to the computer was limited to
those programmers and corporations that had been assigned certain passwords. And each password
restricted its user to access to only the one section of the computer cordoned off from its own
information storager. The password system prevented companies and individuals from stealing each
other's information.

"I figured out how to write a program that would let me read everyone else's password," Bernay
reports. "I began playing around with passwords. I began letting the people who used the computer
know, in subtle ways, that I knew their passwords. I began dropping notes to the computer supervisors
with hints that I knew what I know. I signed them 'The Midnight Skulker.' I kept getting cleverer and
cleverer with my messages and devising ways of showing them what I could do. I'm sure they couldn't
imagine I could do the things I was showing them. But they never responded to me. Every once in a
while they'd change the passwords, but I found out how to discover what the new ones were, and I let
them know. But they never responded directly to the Midnight Skulker. I even finally designed a
program which they could use to prevent my program from finding out what it did. In effect I told them
how to wipe me out, The Midnight Skulker. It was a very clever program. I started leaving clues about
myself. I wanted them to try and use it and then try to come up with something to get around that and
reappear again. But they wouldn't play. I wanted to get caught. I mean I didn't want to get caught
personally, but I wanted them to notice me and admit that they noticed me. I wanted them to attempt to
respond, maybe in some interesting way." Finally the computer managers became concerned enough about
the threat of information-stealing to respond. However, instead of using The Midnight Skulker's own
elegant self-destruct program, they called in their security personnel, interrogated everyone, found
an informer to identify Bernay as The Midnight Skulker, and fired him.

"At first the security people advised the company to hire me full-time to search out other flaws and
discover other computer freaks. I might have liked that. But I probably would have turned into a
double double agent rather than the double agent they wanted. I might have resurrected The Midnight
Skulker and tried to catch myself. Who knows? Anyway, the higher-ups turned the whole idea down."

You Can Tap the F.B.I.'s Crime Control Computer in the Comfort of Your Own Home, Perhaps

Computer freaking may be the wave of the future. It suits the phone-phreak sensibility perfectly.
Gilbertson, the blue-box inventor and a lifelong phone phreak, has also gone on from phone-phreaking
to computer-freaking. Before he got into the blue-box business Gilbertson, who is a highly skilled
programmer, devised programs for international currency arbitrage.

But he began playing with computers in earnest when he learned he could use his blue box in tandem
with the computer terminal installed in his apartment by the instrumentation firm he worked for. The
print-out terminal and keyboard was equipped with acoustical coupling, so that by coupling his little
ivory Princess phone to the terminal and then coupling his blue box on that, he could M-F his way into
other computers with complete anonymity, and without charge; program and re-program them at will; feed
them false or misleading information; tap and steal from them. He explained to me that he taps
computers by busying out all the lines, then going into a verification trunk, listening into the
passwords and instructions one of the time sharers uses, and them M-F-ing in and imitating them. He
believes it would not be impossible to creep into the F.B.I's crime control computer through a local
police computer terminal and phreak around with the F.B.I.'s memory banks. He claims he has succeeded
in re-programming a certain huge institutional computer in such a way that it has cordoned off an
entire section of its circuitry for his personal use, and at the same time conceals that arrangement
from anyone else's notice. I have been unable to verify this claim.

Like Captain Crunch, like Alexander Graham Bell (pseudonym of a disgruntled-looking East Coast
engineer who claims to have invented the black box and now sells black and blue boxes to gamblers and
radical heavies), like most phone phreaks, Gilbertson began his career trying to rip off pay phones as
a teenager. Figure them out, then rip them off. Getting his dime back from the pay phone is the phone
phreak's first thrilling rite of passage. After learning the usual eighteen different ways of getting
his dime back, Gilbertson learned how to make master keys to coin-phone cash boxes, and get everyone
else's dimes back. He stole some phone-company equipment and put together his own home switchboard
with it. He learned to make a simple "bread-box" device, of the kind used by bookies in the Thirties
(bookie gives a number to his betting clients; the phone with that number is installed in some widow
lady's apartment, but is rigged to ring in the bookie's shop across town, cops trace big betting
number and find nothing but the widow).

Not long after that afternoon in 1968 when, deep in the stacks of an engineering library, he came
across a technical journal with the phone tone frequencies and rushed off to make his first blue box,
not long after that Gilbertson abandoned a very promising career in physical chemistry and began
selling blue boxes for $1,500 apiece.

"I had to leave physical chemistry. I just ran out of interesting things to learn," he told me one
evening. We had been talking in the apartment of the man who served as the link between Gilbertson and
the syndicate in arranging the big $300,000 blue-box deal which fell through because of legal trouble.
There has been some smoking.

"No more interesting things to learn," he continues. "Physical chemistry turns out to be a sick
subject when you take it to its highest level. I don't know. I don't think I could explain to you how
it's sick. You have to be there. But you get, I don't know, a false feeling of omnipotence. I suppose
it's like phone-phreaking that way. This huge thing is there. This whole system. And there are holes
in it and you slip into them like Alice and you're pretending you're doing something you're actually
not, or at least it's no longer you that's doing what you thought you were doing. It's all Lewis
Carroll. Physical chemistry and phone-phreaking. That's why you have these phone-phreak pseudonyms
like The Cheshire Cat, the Red King, and The Snark. But there's something about phone-phreaking that
you don't find in physical chemistry." He looks up at me:

"Did you ever steal anything?"

"Well yes, I..."

"Then you know! You know the rush you get. It's not just knowledge, like physical chemistry. It's
forbidden knowledge. You know. You can learn about anything under the sun and be bored to death with
it. But the idea that it's illegal. Look: you can be small and mobile and smart and you're ripping off
somebody large and powerful and very dangerous."

People like Gilbertson and Alexander Graham Bell are always talking about ripping off the phone
company and screwing Ma Bell. But if they were shown a single button and told that by pushing it they
could turn the entire circuitry of A.T.&T. into molten puddles, they probably wouldn't push it. The
disgruntled-inventor phone phreak needs the phone system the way the lapsed Catholic needs the Church,
the way Satan needs a God, the way The Midnight Skulker needed, more than anything else, response.

Later that evening Gilbertson finished telling me how delighted he was at the flood of blue boxes
spreading throughout the country, how delighted he was to know that "this time they're really
screwed." He suddenly shifted gears.

"Of course. I do have this love/hate thing about Ma Bell. In a way I almost like the phone company. I
guess I'd be very sad if they were to disintegrate. In a way it's just that after having been so good
they turn out to have these things wrong with them. It's those flaws that allow me to get in and mess
with them, but I don't know. There's something about it that gets to you and makes you want to get to
it, you know."

I ask him what happens when he runs out of interesting, forbidden things to learn about the phone

"I don't know, maybe I'd go to work for them for a while."

"In security even?"

"I'd do it, sure. I just as soon play -- I'd just as soon work on either side."

"Even figuring out how to trap phone phreaks? I said, recalling Mark Bernay's game."

"Yes, that might be interesting. Yes, I could figure out how to outwit the phone phreaks. Of course if
I got too good at it, it might become boring again. Then I'd have to hope the phone phreaks got much
better and outsmarted me for a while. That would move the quality of the game up one level. I might
even have to help them out, you know, 'Well, kids, I wouldn't want this to get around but did you ever
think of -- ?' I could keep it going at higher and higher levels forever."

The dealer speaks up for the first time. He has been staring at the soft blinking patterns of light
and colors on the translucent tiled wall facing him. (Actually there are no patterns: the color and
illumination of every tile is determined by a computerized random-number generator designed by
Gilbertson which insures that there can be no meaning to any sequence of events in the tiles.)

"Those are nice games you're talking about," says the dealer to his friend. "But I wouldn't mind
seeing them screwed. A telephone isn't private anymore. You can't say anything you really want to say
on a telephone or you have to go through that paranoid bullshit. 'Is it cool to talk on the phone?' I
mean, even if it is cool, if you have to ask 'Is it cool,' then it isn't cool. You know. 'Is it cool,'
then it isn't cool. You know. Like those blind kids, people are going to start putting together their
own private telephone companies if they want to really talk. And you know what else. You don't hear
silences on the phone anymore. They've got this time-sharing thing on long-distance lines where you
make a pause and they snip out that piece of time and use it to carry part of somebody else's
conversation. Instead of a pause, where somebody's maybe breathing or sighing, you get this blank hole
and you only start hearing again when someone says a word and even the beginning of the word is
clipped off. Silences don't count -- you're paying for them, but they take them away from you. It's
not cool to talk and you can't hear someone when they don't talk. What the hell good is the phone? I
wouldn't mind seeing them totally screwed."

The Big Memphis Bust

Joe Engressia never wanted to screw Ma Bell. His dream had always been to work for her.

The day I visited Joe in his small apartment on Union Avenue in Memphis, he was upset about another
setback in his application for a telephone job.

"They're stalling on it. I got a letter today telling me they'd have to postpone the interview I
requested again. My landlord read it for me. They gave me some runaround about wanting papers on my
rehabilitation status but I think there's something else going on."

When I switched on the 40-watt bulb in Joe's room -- he sometimes forgets when he has guests -- it
looked as if there was enough telephone hardware to start a small phone company of his own.

There is one phone on top of his desk, one phone sitting in an open drawer beneath the desk top. Next
to the desk-top phone is a cigar-box-size M-F device with big toggle switches, and next to that is
some kind of switching and coupling device with jacks and alligator plugs hanging loose. Next to that
is a Braille typewriter. On the floor next to the desk, lying upside down like a dead tortoise, is the
half-gutted body of an old black standard phone. Across the room on a torn and dusty couch are two
more phones, one of them a touch-tone model; two tape recorders; a heap of phone patches and
cassettes, and a life-size toy telephone.

Our conversation is interrupted every ten minutes by phone phreaks from all over the country ringing
Joe on just about every piece of equipment but the toy phone and the Braille typewriter. One
fourteen-year-old blind kid from Connecticut calls up and tells Joe he's got a girl friend. He wants
to talk to Joe about girl friends. Joe says they'll talk later in the evening when they can be alone
on the line. Joe draws a deep breath, whistles him off the air with an earsplitting 2600-cycle
whistle. Joe is pleased to get the calls but he looked worried and preoccupied that evening, his brow
constantly furrowed over his dark wandering eyes. In addition to the phone-company stall, he has just
learned that his apartment house is due to be demolished in sixty days for urban renewal. For all its
shabbiness, the Union Avenue apartment house has been Joe's first home-of-his-own and he's worried
that he may not find another before this one is demolished.

But what really bothers Joe is that switchmen haven't been listening to him. "I've been doing some
checking on 800 numbers lately, and I've discovered that certain 800 numbers in New Hampshire couldn't
be reached from Missouri and Kansas. Now it may sound like a small thing, but I don't like to see
sloppy work; it makes me feel bad about the lines. So I've been calling up switching offices and
reporting it, but they haven't corrected it. I called them up for the third time today and instead of
checking they just got mad. Well, that gets me mad. I mean, I do try to help them. There's something
about them I can't understand -- you want to help them and they just try to say you're defrauding

It is Sunday evening and Joe invites me to join him for dinner at a Holiday Inn. Frequently on Sunday
evening Joe takes some of his welfare money, calls a cab, and treats himself to a steak dinner at one
of Memphis' thirteen Holiday Inns. (Memphis is the headquarters of Holiday Inn. Holiday Inns have been
a favorite for Joe ever since he made his first solo phone trip to a Bell switching office in
Jacksonville, Florida, and stayed in the Holiday Inn there. He likes to stay at Holiday Inns, he
explains, because they represent freedom to him and because the rooms are arranged the same all over
the country so he knows that any Holiday Inn room is familiar territory to him. Just like any

Over steaks in the Pinnacle Restaurant of the Holiday Inn Medical Center on Madison Avenue in Memphis,
Joe tells me the highlights of his life as a phone phreak.

At age seven, Joe learned his first phone trick. A mean baby-sitter, tired of listening to little Joe
play with the phone as he always did, constantly, put a lock on the phone dial. "I got so mad. When
there's a phone sitting there and I can't use it... so I started getting mad and banging the receiver
up and down. I noticed I banged it once and it dialed one. Well, then I tried banging it twice...." In
a few minutes Joe learned how to dial by pressing the hook switch at the right time. "I was so excited
I remember going 'whoo whoo' and beat a box down on the floor."

At age eight Joe learned about whistling. "I was listening to some intercept non working-number
recording in L.A.- I was calling L.A. as far back as that, but I'd mainly dial non working numbers
because there was no charge, and I'd listen to these recordings all day. Well, I was whistling 'cause
listening to these recordings can be boring after a while even if they are from L.A., and all of a
sudden, in the middle of whistling, the recording clicked off. I fiddled around whistling some more,
and the same thing happened. So I called up the switch room and said, 'I'm Joe. I'm eight years old
and I want to know why when I whistle this tune the line clicks off.' He tried to explain it to me,
but it was a little too technical at the time. I went on learning. That was a thing nobody was going
to stop me from doing. The phones were my life, and I was going to pay any price to keep on learning.
I knew I could go to jail. But I had to do what I had to do to keep on learning."

The phone is ringing when we walk back into Joe's apartment on Union Avenue. It is Captain Crunch. The
Captain has been following me around by phone, calling up everywhere I go with additional bits of
advice and explanation for me and whatever phone phreak I happen to be visiting. This time the Captain
reports he is calling from what he describes as "my hideaway high up in the Sierra Nevada." He pulses
out lusty salvos of M-F and tells Joe he is about to "go out and get a little action tonight. Do some
phreaking of another kind, if you know what I mean." Joe chuckles.

The Captain then tells me to make sure I understand that what he told me about tying up the nation's
phone lines was true, but that he and the phone phreaks he knew never used the technique for sabotage.
They only learned the technique to help the phone company.

"We do a lot of troubleshooting for them. Like this New Hampshire/Missouri WATS-line flaw I've been
screaming about. We help them more than they know."

After we say good-bye to the Captain and Joe whistles him off the line, Joe tells me about a
disturbing dream he had the night before: "I had been caught and they were taking me to a prison. It
was a long trip. They were taking me to a prison a long long way away. And we stopped at a Holiday Inn
and it was my last night ever using the phone and I was crying and crying, and the lady at the Holiday
Inn said, 'Gosh, honey, you should never be sad at a Holiday Inn. You should always be happy here.
Especially since it's your last night.' And that just made it worse and I was sobbing so much I
couldn't stand it."

Two weeks after I left Joe Engressia's apartment, phone-company security agents and Memphis police
broke into it. Armed with a warrant, which they left pinned to a wall, they confiscated every piece of
equipment in the room, including his toy telephone. Joe was placed under arrest and taken to the city
jail where he was forced to spend the night since he had no money and knew no one in Memphis to call.

It is not clear who told Joe what that night, but someone told him that the phone company had an
open-and-shut case against him because of revelations of illegal activity he had made to a
phone-company undercover agent.

By morning Joe had become convinced that the reporter from Esquire, with whom he had spoken two weeks
ago, was the undercover agent. He probably had ugly thoughts about someone he couldn't see gaining his
confidence, listening to him talk about his personal obsessions and dreams, while planning all the
while to lock him up.

"I really thought he was a reporter," Engressia told the Memphis Press-Seminar. "I told him
everything...." Feeling betrayed, Joe proceeded to confess everything to the press and police.

As it turns out, the phone company did use an undercover agent to trap Joe, although it was not the
Esquire reporter.

Ironically, security agents were alerted and began to compile a case against Joe because of one of his
acts of love for the system: Joe had called an internal service department to report that he had
located a group of defective long-distance trunks, and to complain again about the New
Hampshire/Missouri WATS problem. Joe always liked Ma Bell's lines to be clean and responsive. A
suspicious switchman reported Joe to the security agents who discovered that Joe had never had a
long-distance call charged to his name.

Then the security agents learned that Joe was planning one of his phone trips to a local switching
office. The security people planted one of their agents in the switching office. He posed as a student
switchman and followed Joe around on a tour. He was extremely friendly and helpful to Joe, leading him
around the office by the arm. When the tour was over he offered Joe a ride back to his apartment
house. On the way he asked Joe -- one tech man to another -- about "those blue boxers" he'd heard
about. Joe talked about them freely, talked about his blue box freely, and about all the other things
he could do with the phones.

The next day the phone-company security agents slapped a monitoring tape on Joe's line, which
eventually picked up an illegal call. Then they applied for the search warrant and broke in.

In court Joe pleaded not guilty to possession of a blue box and theft of service. A sympathetic judge
reduced the charges to malicious mischief and found him guilty on that count, sentenced him to two
thirty-day sentences to be served concurrently and then suspended the sentence on condition that Joe
promise never to play with phones again. Joe promised, but the phone company refused to restore his
service. For two weeks after the trial Joe could not be reached except through the pay phone at his
apartment house, and the landlord screened all calls for him.

Phone-phreak Carl managed to get through to Joe after the trial, and reported that Joe sounded crushed
by the whole affair.

"What I'm worried about," Carl told me, "is that Joe means it this time. The promise. That he'll never
phone-phreak again. That's what he told me, that he's given up phone-phreaking for good. I mean his
entire life. He says he knows they're going to be watching him so closely for the rest of his life
he'll never be able to make a move without going straight to jail. He sounded very broken up by the
whole experience of being in jail. It was awful to hear him talk that way. I don't know. I hope maybe
he had to sound that way. Over the phone, you know."

He reports that the entire phone-phreak underground is up in arms over the phone company's treatment
of Joe. "All the while Joe had his hopes pinned on his application for a phone-company job, they were
stringing him along getting ready to bust him. That gets me mad. Joe spent most of his time helping
them out. The bastards. They think they can use him as an example. All of sudden they're harassing us
on the coast. Agents are jumping up on our lines. They just busted ------'s mute yesterday and ripped
out his lines. But no matter what Joe does, I don't think we're going to take this lying down."

Two weeks later my phone rings and about eight phone phreaks in succession say hello from about eight
different places in the country, among them Carl, Ed, and Captain Crunch. A nationwide phone-phreak
conference line has been reestablished through a switching machine in --------, with the cooperation
of a disgruntled switchman.

"We have a special guest with us today," Carl tells me.

The next voice I hear is Joe's. He reports happily that he has just moved to a place called
Millington, Tennessee, fifteen miles outside of Memphis, where he has been hired as a telephone-set
repairman by a small independent phone company. Someday he hopes to be an equipment troubleshooter.

"It's the kind of job I dreamed about. They found out about me from the publicity surrounding the
trial. Maybe Ma Bell did me a favor busting me. I'll have telephones in my hands all day long."

"You know the expression, 'Don't get mad, get even'?" phone-phreak Carl asked me. "Well, I think
they're going to be very sorry about what they did to Joe and what they're trying to do to us."

(an excellent story presented here by Jolly Roger. Taken from the Official Hacker's Guide. Originally
seen by myself in some book and I cannot remember the name of it.)

$ $
$ -=- -=-=-=- -- -=-=-=- -=-=-=-=- $
$ $
$ $
$ $
$$$$$$$$$$$$-=>LEX LUTHOR<=-$$$$$$$$$$$
$ AND $













(Left Untouched as I got it...-----JR)

(Same Here... '94. ----------Exodus)
Courtesy of The Black Gate BBS

Bad as Shit

Recently, a telephone fanatic in the northwest made an interesting discovery. He was exploring the 804
area code (Virginia) and found out that the 840 exchange did something strange. In the vast majority
of cases, in fact in all of the cases except one, he would get a recording as if the exchange didn't
exist. However, if he dialed 804-840 and four rather predictable numbers, he got a ring!

After one or two rings, somebody picked up. Being experienced at this kind of thing, he could tell
that the call didn't "supe", that is, no charges were being incurred for calling this number. (Calls
that get you to an error message, or a special operator, generally don't supervise.) A female voice,
with a hint of a Southern accent said, "Operator, can I help you?"

"Yes," he said, "What number have I reached?"

"What number did you dial, sir?"

He made up a number that was similar.

"I'm sorry that is not the number you reached." Click.

He was fascinated. What in the world was this? He knew he was going to call back, but before he did,
he tried some more experiments. He tried the 840 exchange in several other area codes. In some, it
came up as a valid exchange. In others, exactly the same thing happened -- the same last four digits,
the same Southern belle. Oddly enough, he later noticed, the areas worked in seemed to travel in a
beeline from Washington DC to Pittsburgh, PA.

He called back from a payphone. "Operator, can I help you?"

"Yes, this is the phone company. I'm testing this line and we don't seem to have an identification on
your circuit. What office is this, please?"

"What number are you trying to reach?"

"I'm not trying to reach any number. I'm trying to identify this circuit."

"I'm sorry, I can't help you."

"Ma'am, if I don't get an ID on this line, I'll have to disconnect it. We show no record of it here."

"Hold on a moment, sir."

After about a minute, she came back. "Sir, I can have someone speak to you. Would you give me your
number, please?"

He had anticipated this and he had the payphone number ready. After he gave it, she said, "Mr. XXX
will get right back to you."

"Thanks." He hung up the phone. It rang. INSTANTLY! "Oh my God," he thought, "They weren't asking for
my number -- they were confirming it!"

"Hello," he said, trying to sound authoritative.

"This is Mr. XXX. Did you just make an inquiry to my office concerning a phone number?"

"Yes. I need an identi--"

"What you need is advice. Don't ever call that number again. Forget you ever knew it."

At this point our friend got so nervous he just hung up. He expected to hear the phone ring again but
it didn't.

Over the next few days he racked his brains trying to figure out what the number was. He knew it was
something big -- that was pretty certain at this point. It was so big that the number was programmed
into every central office in the country. He knew this because if he tried to dial any other number in
that exchange, he'd get a local error message from his CO, as if the exchange didn't exist.

It finally came to him. He had an uncle who worked in a federal agency. He had a feeling that this was
government related and if it was, his uncle could probably find out what it was. He asked the next day
and his uncle promised to look into the matter.

The next time he saw his uncle, he noticed a big change in his manner. He was trembling. "Where did
you get that number?!" he shouted. "Do you know I almost got fired for asking about it?!? They kept
wanting to know where I got it."

Our friend couldn't contain his excitement. "What is it?" he pleaded. "What's the number?!"


He never called the number after that. He knew that he could probably cause quite a bit of excitement
by calling the number and saying something like, "The weather's not good in Washington. We're coming
over for a visit." But our friend was smart. he knew that there were some things that were better off
unsaid and undone.

(A fucking great story from the Official Phreaker's Guide)

Telenet Courtesy of Exodus Orig. by JR

It seems that not many of you know that Telenet is connected to about 80 computer-networks in the
world. No, I don't mean 80 nodes, but 80 networks with thousands of unprotected computers. When you
call your local Telenet- gateway, you can only call those computers which accept reverse-charging-
calls. If you want to call computers in foreign countries or computers in USA which do not accept
R-calls, you need a Telenet-ID. Did you ever notice that you can type ID XXXX when being connected to
Telenet? You are then asked for the password. If you have such a NUI (Network-User-ID) you can call
nearly every host connected to any computer-network in the world. Here are some examples:
* 026245400090184 :Is a VAX in Germany (Username: DATEXP and leave mail for CHRIS !!!)
* 0311050500061 :Is the Los Alamos Integrated computing network (One of the hosts connected to it is
the DNA (Defense Nuclear Agency)!!!)
* 0530197000016 :Is a BBS in New Zealand
* 024050256 :Is the S-E-Bank in Stockholm, Sweden (Login as GAMES !!!)
* 02284681140541 :CERN in Geneva in Switzerland (one of the biggest nuclear research centers in the
world) Login as GUEST
* 0234212301161 :A Videotex-standard system. Type OPTEL to get in and use the ID 999_ with the
password 9_
* 0242211000001 :University of Oslo in Norway (Type LOGIN 17,17 to play the Multi-User-Dungeon !)
* 0425130000215 :Something like ITT Dialcom, but this one is in Israel ! ID HELP with password HELP
works fine with security level 3
* 0310600584401 :Is the Washington Post News Service via Tymnet (Yes, Tymnet is connected to
Telenet, too !) ID and Password is: PETER You can read the news of the next day !

The prefixes are as follows:
* 02624 is Datex-P in Germany
* 02342 is PSS in England
* 03110 is Telenet in USA
* 03106 is Tymnet in USA
* 02405 is Telepak in Sweden
* 04251 is Isranet in Israel
* 02080 is Transpac in France
* 02284 is Telepac in Switzerland
* 02724 is Eirpac in Ireland
* 02704 is Luxpac in Luxembourg
* 05252 is Telepac in Singapore
* 04408 is Venus-P in Japan

...and so on... Some of the countries have more than one packet-switching-network (USA has 11, Canada
has 3, etc).

OK. That should be enough for the moment. As you see most of the passwords are very simple. This is
because they must not have any fear of hackers. Only a few German hackers use these networks. Most of
the computers are absolutely easy to hack !!! So, try to find out some Telenet-ID's and leave them
here. If you need more numbers, leave e-mail.

I'm calling from Germany via the German Datex-P network, which is similar to Telenet. We have a lot of
those NUI's for the German network, but none for a special Tymnet-outdial-computer in USA, which
connects me to any phone #.

CUL8R, Mad Max

PS: Call 026245621040000 and type ID INF300 with password DATACOM to get more Informations on
packet-switching-networks !

PS2: The new password for the Washington Post is KING !!!!
`Fucking with the Operator courtesy of Exodus

Ever get an operator who gave you a hard time, and you didn't know what to do? Well if the operator
hears you use a little Bell jargon, she might wise up. Here is a little diagram (excuse the artwork)
of the structure of operators
/--------\ /------\ /-----\
!Operator!-- > ! S.A. ! --->! BOS !
\--------/ \------/ \-----/
! Group Chief !

Now most of the operators are not bugged, so they can curse at you, if they do ask INSTANTLY for the
"S.A." or the Service Assistant. The operator does not report to her (95% of them are hers) but they
will solve most of your problems. She MUST give you her name as she connects & all of these calls are
bugged. If the SA gives you a rough time get her BOS (Business Office Supervisor) on the line. S/He
will almost always back her girls up, but sometimes the SA will get tarred and feathered. The operator
reports to the Group Chief, and S/He will solve 100% of your problems, but the chances of getting S/He
on the line are nill.

If a lineman (the guy who works out on the poles) or an installation man gives you the works ask to
speak to the Installation Foreman, that works wonders.

Here is some other bell jargon, that might come in handy if you are having trouble with the line. Or
they can be used to lie your way out of situations....

An Erling is a line busy for 1 hour, used mostly in traffic studies A Permanent Signal is that
terrible howling you get if you disconnect, but don't hang up.

Everyone knows what a busy signal is, but some idiots think that is the *Actual* ringing of the phone,
when it just is a tone "beeps" when the phone is ringing, wouldn't bet on this though, it can (and
does) get out of sync.

When you get a busy signal that is 2 times as fast as the normal one, the person you are trying to
reach isn't really on the phone, (he might be), it is actually the signal that a trunk line somewhere
is busy and they haven't or can't reroute your call. Sometimes you will get a Recording, or if you get
nothing at all (Left High & Dry in fone terms) all the recordings are being used and the system is
really overused, will probably go down in a little while. This happened when Kennedy was shot, the
system just couldn't handle the calls. By the way this is called the "reorder signal" and the trunk
line is "blocked".

One more thing, if an overseas call isn't completed and doesn't generate any money for AT&T, is is
called an "Air & Water Call".

AT&T is no longer as stupid as she once was. I advise STRONG caution when phucking with Ma Bell. -=
Exodus =-
==Phrack Inc.== Volume One, Issue One, Phile #4 of 8



"Vengeance is mine", says the Phreak.


Call up the business office. It should be listed at the front of the white pages. Say you wanted to
disconnect Scott Korman's line. DIAL 800-xxx-xxxx.

"Hello, this is Mr. Korman, I'm moving to California and would like to have my phone service
disconnected. I'm at the airport now. I'm calling from a payphone, my number is [414] 445 5005. You
can send my final bill to: (somewhere in California). Thank you."

METHOD 2-PHONE BOOKS Call up the business office from a pay phone. Say :

"Hello, I'd like to order a Phone Book for Upper Volta (or any out-of-the way area with Direct
Dialing). This is Scott Korman, ship to 3119 N. 44th St. Milwaukee, WI 53216. Yes, I under stand it
will cost $xx($25-$75!!). Thank you."


Call up a PBX, enter the code and get an outside line. Then dial 0+ the number desired to call. You
will hear a bonk and then an operator. Say, "I'd like to charge this to my home phone at 414-445-5005.
Thank you." A friend and I did this to a loser, I called him at 1:00 AM and we left the fone off the
hook all night. I calculated that it cost him $168.


Call up the business office once again from a payfone. Say you'd like call waiting, forwarding, 3 way,
etc. Once again you are the famed loser Scott Korman. He pays-you laugh. You don't know how funny it
was talking to him, and wondering what those clicks he kept hearing were.


Do the same as in #4, but say you'd like to change and unlist your (Scott's) number. Anyone calling
him will get:

"BEW BEW BEEP. The number you have reached, 445-5005, has been changed to a non-published number. No


This required an accomplice or two or three. Around Christmas time, go to Toys 'R' Us. Get everyone at
the customer service or manager's desk away ("Hey, could you help me"). then you get on their phone
and dial (usually dial 9 first) and the business office again. This time, say you are from Toys 'R'
Us, and you'd like to add call forwarding to 445-5005. Scott will get 100-600 calls a day!!!


Call a payphone at 10:00 PM. Say to the operator that you'd like to book a call to Russia. Say you are
calling from a payphone, and your number is that of the loser to fry (e.g. 445-5005). She will say
that she'll have to call ya back in 5 hours, and you ok that. Meanwhile the loser (e.g.) Scott, will
get a call at 3:00 AM from an operator saying that the call he booked to Russia is ready.


-= Exodus =- HOTWU!
International Country Code Listing courtesy of Exodus Orig. by JR

UNITED KINGDOM...................44

SAN MARINO.......................39
VATICAN CITY.....................39

COSTA RICA......................506
EL SALVADOR.....................503

IVORY COAST.....................225
SOUTH AFRICA.....................27

AMERICAN SAMOA..................684
FRENCH POLYNESIA................689
HONG KONG.......................852
KOREA, REPUBLIC OF...............82
NEW CALEDONIA...................687
NEW ZEALAND......................64
PAPUA NEW GUINEA................675

SRI LANKA........................94


SAUDI ARABIA....................966
YEMEN ARAB REPUBLIC.............967

FRENCH ANTILLES.................596




To dial international calls:

International Access Code + Country code + Routing code

Example :

To call Frankfurt, Germany, you would do the following:

011 + 49 + 611 + (# wanted) + # sign(octothrope)

The # sign at the end is to tell Bell that you are done entering in all the needed info.
The Infinity Transmitter courtesy of Exodus

originally typed by: Ghost Wind


Description: Briefly, the Infinity Transmitter is a device which activates a microphone via a phone
call. It is plugged into the phone line, and when the phone rings, it will immediately intercept the
ring and broadcast into the phone any sound that is in the room. This device was originally made by
Information Unlimited, and had a touch tone decoder to prevent all who did not know the code from
being able to use the phone in its normal way. This version, however, will activate the microphone for
anyone who calls while it is in operation.

NOTE: It is illegal to use this device to try to bug someone. It is also pretty stupid because they
are fairly noticeable.

Parts List: Pretend that uF means micro Farad, cap= capacitor
Part # Description
---- - -----------
R1,4,8 3 390 k 1/4 watt resistor
R2 1 5.6 M 1/4 watt resistor
R3,5,6 3 6.8 k 1/4 watt resistor
R7/S1 1 5 k pot/switch
R9,16 2 100 k 1/4 watt resistor
R10 1 2.2 k 1/4 watt resistor
R13,18 2 1 k 1/4 watt resistor
R14 1 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistor
R15 1 10 k 1/4 watt resistor
R17 1 1 M 1/4 watt resistor
C1 1 .05 uF/25 V disc cap
C2,3,5,6,7 5 1 uF 50 V electrolytic cap or tant
(preferably non-polarized)
C4,11,12 3 .01 uF/50 V disc cap
C8,10 2 100 uF @ 25 V electrolytic cap
C9 1 5 uF @ 150 V electrolytic cap
C13 1 10 uF @ 25 V electrolytic cap
TM1 1 555 timer dip
A1 1 CA3018 amp array in can
Q1,2 2 PN2222 npn sil transistor
Q3 1 D4OD5 npn pwr tab transistor
D1,2 2 50 V 1 amp react. 1N4002
T1 1 1.5 k/500 matching transformer
M1 1 large crystal microphone
J1 1 Phono jack optional for sense output
WR3 (24") #24 red and black hook up wire
WR4 (24") #24 black hook up wire
CL3,4 2 Alligator clips
CL1,2 2 6" battery snap clips
PB1 1 1 3/4x4 1/2x.1 perfboard
CA1 1 5 1/4x3x2 1/8 grey enclosure fab
WR15 (12") #24 buss wire
KN1 1 small plastic knob
BU1 1 small clamp bushing
B1,2 2 9 volt transistor battery or 9V ni-cad

Circuit Operation: Not being the most technical guy in the world, and not being very good at
electronics (yet), I'm just repeating what Mr. Iannini's said about the circuit operation. The
Transmitter consists of a high grain amplifier fed into the telephone lines via transformer. The
circuit is initiated by the action of a voltage transient pulse occurring across the phone line at the
instant the telephone circuit is made (the ring, in other words). This transient immediately triggers
a timer whose output pin 3 goes positive, turning on transistors Q2 and Q3. Timer TM1 now remains in
this state for a period depending on the values of R17 and C13 (usually about 10 seconds for the
values shown). When Q3 is turned on by the timer, a simulated "off hook" condition is created by the
switching action of Q3 connecting the 500 ohm winding of the transformer directly across the phone
lines. Simultaneously, Q2 clamps the ground of A1, amplifier, and Q1, output transistor, to the
negative return of B1,B2, therefore enabling this amplifier section. Note that B2 is always required
by supplying quiescent power to TM1 during normal conditions. System is off/on controlled by S1

A crystal mike picks up the sounds that are fed to the first two transistors of the A1 array connected
as an emitter follower driving the remaining two transistors as cascaded common emitters. Output of
the array now drives Q1 capacitively coupled to the 1500 ohm winding of T1. R7 controls the pick up
sensitivity of the system.

Diode D1 is forward biased at the instant of connection and essentially applies a negative pulse at
pin 2 of TM1, initiating the cycle. D2 clamps any high positive pulses. C9 dc-isolates and
desensitizes the circuit. The system described should operate when any incoming call is made without
ringing the phone.

Schematic Diagram: Because this is text, this doesn't look too hot. Please use a little imagination! I
will hopefully get a graphics drawing of this out as soon as I can on a Fontrix graffile.

To be able to see what everything is, this character: | should appear as a horizontal bar. I did this
on a ][e using a ][e 80 column card, so I'm sorry if it looks kinda weird to you.
resistor: -/\/\/- switch: _/ _
battery: -|!|!- capacitor (electrolytic): -|(-
capacitor (disc): -||- _ _
transistor:(c) > (e) Transformer: )||(
\_/ )||(
|(b) _)||(_
diode: |<
chip: ._____.
!_____! (chips are easy to recognize!)

Dots imply a connection between wires. NO DOT, NO CONNECTION.
ie.: _!_ means a connection while _|_ means no connection.

.________________________to GREEN wire phone line
| .______________________to RED wire phone line
| |
| | ._________(M1)______________.
| | | |
| | | R1 |
| | !__________/\/\/____________!
| | | _!_ C1
| | |this wire is the amp ___
| | |<=ground | R2
| | | !___________________/\/\/_____________.
| | | ._______!_______. |
| | !___________________!4 9 11!_____________________________!
| | | | | |
| | !___________________!7 12._____________________________!
| | | | A1 | R3 |
| | !___________________!10 ____*8!_______.____/\/\/____________! ^
| | | | / | | | |
| | | C4 | / | \ |2ma
| | !____||______. | / | /R4 B1 +
| | | || | | / | \ |!|!
| | | R7 | C2 | / | / |
| | !____/\/\/___!__)|__!8*_/ | | S1 |
| | | ^ | 6!_______! neg<__/.__!
| | | | C3 | | | C5 return |
| | | !_____|(___.__!3 | '-|(-| |
| | | | | 5 1!____________! |
| | | \ !_______._______! | B2|!|!
| | !________. R8 / | | +
| | | \ | | R6 |3ma
| | | !__________!____________________|_____/\/\/______! |
| | | R5 | | | v
| | !__/\/\/___________|____________________! |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | C6 | |
| | | |-)|-' R9 |
| | | !_________________/\/\/_______. |
| | | | | |
| | | Q1 _!_ | R10 |
| | !____________/ \____________________________!__/\/\/_____!
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | C8 | |
| | !__________)|_______________________________|____________!
| | ! | |
| | / | |
| | -----| | |
| | | \ | |
| | | > | |
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
| | | !_____________. | |
| | | | | |
| | !__________. | | |
| | | | | |
| !________. | | ._____! |
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
| | | | | C7 |
| | | | '-|(-| |
| |_________|_________!_______.T1._________________| |
| | | 1500 )||( 500 |
| | | ohm )||( ohm |
| | !______.)||(.__. |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | > |
| | | |/ |
| | | +----| Q3 |
| | | | |\ |
!____________________|_________|_______|______!__. D1 C9 |
| | | '-|<---|(------| |
.______________! | | | |
| | | | |
| .________________! | | |
| | | | |
\ | .________________! C11 | |
/ | | .___||____________! |
R13 \ | | | || | |
/ | | | | |
\ !___.___|_______________________! | |
| | | | | R16 | R15 |
| v | | !___/\/\/\________!___/\/\/_!
| neg | | | D2 | |
| return | | !_____|<__________! |
| B1,B2 | \ | | |
| | / | .____________!_. |
| | \R14 |C12 | TM1 2 | |
| | / !_||_!5 4!_______!
| | \ | || | | |
| | | !____!1 8!_______!
| | | | | 7 6 3 | |
| | | | !_____._.____._! |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | C13 | | | R17 |
| | | !___)|_____!_!____|__/\/\/__!
| | | | | |
!___________|___!_______________________|_________________! |
| | | |
| \ | C10 |
| /R18 !__________)|_______________!
| \
| /
| |
!___O J1
sense output

Construction notes: Because the damned book just gave a picture instead of step by step instructions,
and I'll try to give you as much help as possible. Note that all the parts that you will be using are
clearly labeled in the schematic. The perfboard, knobs, 'gator clips, etc are optional. I do strongly
suggest that you do use the board!!! It will make wiring the components up much much easier than if
you don't use it.

The knob you can use to control the pot (R7). R7 is used to tune the IT so that is sounds ok over the
phone. (You get to determine what sounds good) By changing the value of C13, you can change the amount
of time that the circuit will stay open (it cannot detect a hang up, so it works on a timer.) A value
of 100 micro Farads will increase the time by about 10 times.

The switch (S1) determines whether or not the unit is operational. Closed is on. Open is off. The
negative return is the negative terminals of the battery!! The batteries will look something like this
when hooked up:
<-v_____. .______. ._____. .____->
| | | | | |
__!___!__ | | __!___!__
| + - | !_/ _! | + - |
| | switch ^ | |
| 9volts| | | 9volts|
!_______! neg return !_______!

To hook this up to the phone line, there are three ways, depending upon what type of jack you have. If
it is the old type (non modular) then you can just open up the wall plate and connect the wires from
the transmitter directly to the terminals of the phone.

If you have a modular jack with four prongs, attach the red to the negative prong (don't ask me which
is which! I don't have that type of jack... I've only seen them in stores), and the green to the
positive prong, and plug in. Try not to shock yourself...

If you have the clip-in type jack, get double male extension cord (one with a clip on each end), and
chop off one clip. Get a sharp knife and splice off the grey protective material. You should see four
wires, including one green and one red. You attach the appropriate wires from the IT to these two, and
plug the other end into the wall.

Getting the IT to work: If you happen to have a problem, you should attempt to do the following (these
are common sense rules!!) Make sure that you have the polarity of all the capacitors right (if you
used polarized capacitors, that is). Make sure that all the soldering is done well and has not short
circuited something accidently (like if you have a glob touching two wires which should not be
touching.) Check for other short circuits. Check to see if the battery is in right. Check to make sure
the switch is closed.

If it still doesn't work, drop me a line on one of the Maryland or Virginia BBSs and I'll try to help
you out.

The sense output: Somehow or other, it is possible to hook something else up to this and activate it
by phone (like an alarm, flashing lights, etc.)

As of this writing, I have not tried to make one of these, but I will. If you actually get it working,
leave me a note somewhere.

I sure hope all you people appreciate this.
LSD courtesy of Exodus

I think, of all the drugs on the black market today, LSD is the strangest. It is the most recent major
drug to come to life in the psychedelic subculture. (Blah blah blah... let's get to the good stuff:
How to make it in your kitchen!!)
1. Grind up 150 grams of Morning Glory seeds or baby Hawaiian wood rose seeds.
2. In 130 cc. of petroleum ether, soak the seeds for two days.
3. Filter the solution through a tight screen.
4. Throw away the liquid, and allow the seed mush to dry.
5. For two days allow the mush to soak in 110 cc. of wood alcohol.
6. Filter the solution again, saving the liquid and labeling it "1."
7. Resoak the mush in 110 cc. of wood alcohol for two days.
8. Filter and throw away the mush.
9. Add the liquid from the second soak to the solution labeled "1."
10. Pour the liquid into a cookie tray and allow it to evaporate.
11. When all of the liquid has evaporated, a yellow gum remains. This should be scraped up and put
into capsules.

30 grams of Morning Glory seeds = 1 trip
15 Hawaiian wood rose seeds = 1 trip

Many companies, such as Northop-King have been coating their seeds with a toxic chemical, which is
poison. Order seeds from a wholesaler, as it is much safer and cheaper. Hawaiian wood rose seeds can
be ordered directly from:
Chong's Nursery and Flowers
P.O. Box 2154
Honolulu, Hawaii


The basic dosages of acid vary according to what kind of acid is available and what medium of
ingestion is used. Chemically, the potency of LSD-25 is measured in micrograms, or mics. If you're
chemically minded or making your own acid, then computing the number of micrograms is very important.
Usually between 500 and 800 mics is plenty for an 8 hour trip, depending on the quality of the acid,
of course. I have heard of people taking as much as 1,500-2,000 mics. This is not only extremely
dangerous, it is extremely wasteful.

LSD comes packaged in many different forms. The most common are listed below:
* The brown spot, or a piece of paper with a dried drop of LSD on it, is always around. Usually one
spot equals one trip.
* Capsuled acid is very tricky, as the cap can be almost any color, size, or potency. Always ask
what the acid is cut with, as a lot of acid is cut with either speed or strychnine. Also note
* Small white or colored tablets have been known to contain acid, but, as with capsuled acid, it's
impossible to tell potency, without asking.

(from the Anarchist's Cookbook IV. Re-typed up by Exodus)
Bananas courtesy of Exodus

Believe it or not, bananas do contain a small quantity of _Musa Sapientum bananadine_, which is a
mild, short-lasting psychedelic. There are much easier ways of getting high, but the great advantage
to this method is that bananas are legal.
1. Obtain 15 lbs. of ripe yellow bananas.
2. Peel all 15 lbs. and eat the fruit. Save the peels.
3. With a sharp knife, scrape off the insides of the peels and save the scraped material.
4. Put all of the scraped material in a large pot and add water. Boil for three to four hours until
it has attained a solid paste consistency.
5. Spread this paste on cookie sheets, and dry in an over for about 20 minutes to a half hour. This
will result in a fine black powder. Makes about one pound of bananadine powder. Ususally one will
feel the effects of bananadine after smoking three or four cigarettes.

Table of Weights

Pounds Ounces Grams Kilos
1 16 453.6 0.4536
0.0625 1 28.35 0.0283
0.0352 1 0.001
2.205 35.27 1,000 1

(from the Anarchist's Cookbook IV. Re-typed by Exodus)
Yummy Marihuana Recipes courtesy of Exodus

Acapulco Green

* 3 ripe avocados
* 1/2 cup chopped onions
* 2 teaspoons chili powder
* 3 tablespoons wine vinegar
* 1/2 cup chopped marahuana (grass)

Mix the vinegar, grass, and chili powder together and let the mixture stand for one hour. Then add
avocados and onions and mash it all together. It can be served with tacos or as a dip.

Pot Soup
* 1 can condensed beef broth
* 3 tablespoons grass
* 3 tablespoons lemon juice
* 1/2 can water
* 3 tablespoons chopped watercress

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Place in a refrigerator
for two to three hours, reheat, and serve.

Pork and Beans and Pot
* 1 large can (1 lb. 13 oz.) pork and beans
* 1/2 cup grass
* 4 slices bacon
* 1/2 cup light molasses
* 1/2 teaspoon hickory salt
* 3 pineapple rings

Mix together in a casserole, cover top with pineapple and bacon, bake at 350 degrees for about 45
minutes. Serves about six.

The Meat Ball
* 1 lb. hamburger
* 1/4 cup chopped onions
* 1 can cream of mushroom soup
* 1/4 cup bread crumbs
* 3 tablespoons grass
* 3 tablespoons India relish

Mix it all up and shape into meat balls. Brown in frying pan and drain. Place in a casserole with soup
and 1/2 cup water, cover and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes. Feeds about four people.

Spaghetti Sauce
* 1 can (6 oz.) tomato paste
* 2 tablespoons olive oil
* 1/2 cup chopped onions
* 1/2 cup chopped grass
* 1 pinch pepper
* 1 can (6 oz.) water
* 1/2 clove minced garlic
* 1 bay leaf
* 1 pinch thyme
* 1/2 teaspoon salt

Mix in large pot, cover and simmer with frequent stirring for two hours. Serve over spaghetti.

Pot Loaf
* 1 packet onion soup mix
* 1 (16 oz.) can whole peeled tomatoes
* 1/2 cup chopped grass
* 2 lbs. ground beef or chicken or turkey
* 1 egg
* 4 slices bread, crumbled

Mix all ingredients and shape into a loaf. Bake for one hour in 400-degree oven. Serves about six.

Chili Bean Pot
* 2 lbs. pinto beans
* 1 lb. bacon, cut into two-inch sections
* 2 cups red wine
* 4 tablespoons chili powder
* 1/2 clove garlic
* 1 cup chopped grass
* 1/2 cup mushrooms

Soak beans overnight in water. In a lagre pot pour boiling water over beans and simmer for at least an
hour, adding more water to keep beans covered. Now add all other ingredients and continue to simmer
for another three hours. Salt to taste. Serves about ten.

Bird Stuffing
* 5 cups rye bread crumbs
* 2 tablespoons poultry seasoning
* 1/2 cup each of raisins and almonds
* 1/2 cup celery
* 1/3 cup chopped onions
* 3 tablespoons melted butter
* 1/2 cup chopped grass
* 2 tablespoons red wine

Mix it all together, and then stuff it in.

Apple Pot
* 4 apples (cored)
* 1/2 cup brown sugar
* 1/4 cup water
* 4 cherries
* 1/3 cup chopped grass
* 2 tablespoons cinnamon

Powder the grass in a blender, then mix grass with sugar and water. Stuff cores with this paste.
Sprinkle apples with cinnamon, and top with a cherry. Bake for 25 minutes at 350 degrees.

Pot Brownies
* 1/2 cup flour
* 3 tablespoons shortening
* 2 tablespoons honey
* 1 egg (beaten)
* 1 tablespoon water
* 1/2 cup grass
* pinch of salt
* 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
* 1/2 cup sugar
* 2 tablespoons corn syrup
* 1 square melted chocolate
* 1 teaspoon vanilla
* 1/2 cup chopped nuts

Sift flour, baking powder, and salt together. Mix shortening, sugar, honey, syrup, and egg. Then blend
in chocolate and other ingredients, and mix well. Spread in an 8-inch pan and bake for 20 minutes ate
350 degrees.

Banana Bread
* 1/2 cup shortening
* 2 eggs
* 1 teaspoon lemon juice
* 3 teaspoons baking powder
* 1 cup sugar
* 1 cup mashed bananas
* 2 cups sifted flour
* 1/2 cup chopped grass
* 1/2 teaspoon salt
* 1 cup chopped nuts

Mix the shortening and sugar, beat eggs, and add to mixture. Seperately mix bananas with lemon juice
and add to the first mixture. Sift flour, salt, and baking powder together, then mix all ingredients
together. Bake for 1 1/4 hours at 375 degrees.

Sesame Seed Cookies
* 3 oz. ground roast sesame seeds
* 3 tablespoons ground almonds
* 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
* 1/4 cup honey
* 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
* 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
* 1/4 oz. grass

Toast the grass until slightly brown and then crush it in a mortar. Mix crushed grass with all other
ingredients, in a skillet. Place skillet over low flame and add 1 tablespoon of salt butter. Allow it
to cook. When cool, roll mixture into little balls and dip them into the sesame seeds.

If you happen to be in the country at a place where pot is being grown, here's one of the greatest
recipes you can try. Pick a medium-sized leaf off of the marihuana plant and dip it into a cup of
drawn butter, add salt, and eat.

-----------Exodus--------- (from the Anarchist's Cookbook IV!)
Peanuts Orig. by the Jolly Roger

Try this sometime when you are bored!
* Take one pound of raw peanuts (not roasted!)
* Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells.
* Eat the nuts.
* Grind up the skins and roll them into a cigarette, and smoke!

You'll have fun, believe me! -------------Exodus-----------
Chemical Fire Bottle Orig. by the Jolly Roger

This incendiary bottle is self-igniting on target impact.

Materials Required
How Used Common Source

Sulphuric Acid Storage Batteries Motor Vehicles
Material Processing Industrial Plants

Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas Station or
Motor Vehicles

Potassium Chlorate Medicine Drug Stores

Sugar Sweetening Foods Food Store

Glass bottle with stopper (roughly 1 quart size)
Small Bottle or jar with lid.
Rag or absorbant paper (paper towels, newspaper)
String or rubber bands

1. Sulphuric Acid MUST be concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid is used, concentrate it
by boiling until dense white fumes are given off. Container used to boil should be of enamel-ware
or oven glass.
CAUTION: Sulphuric Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with
a large quantity of water. Fumes are also VERY dangerous and should not be inhaled.
2. Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.
3. Pour gasoline into the large (1 quart) bottle until it is approximately 1/3 full.
4. Add concentrated sulphuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is filled to within 1" to 2"
from top. Place the stopper on the bottle.
5. Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water.
CAUTION: If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle during use!
6. Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbant paper around the outside of the bottle. Tie with
string or fasten with rubber bands.
7. Dissolve 1/2 cup (100 grams) of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup (100 grams) of sugar in one cup
(250 cc) of boiling water.
8. Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle and cap tightly. The cooled solution should
be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid. If there is more than this, pour off excess before using.
CAUTION: Store this bottle seperately from the other bottle!

How To Use:
1. Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper around the large bottle.
Bottle can be used wet or after solution is dried. However, when dry, the sugar-Potassium chlorate
mixture is very sensitive to spark or flame and should be handled accordingly.
2. Throw or launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard surface (target) the fuel will

Igniter from Book Matches by the Jolly Roger

This is a hot igniter made from paper book matches for use with molotov cocktail and other

Material Required:
* Paper book matches
* Adhesive or friction tape

1. Remove the staple(s) from match book and seperate matches from cover.
2. Fold and tape one row of matches (fold in thirds)
3. Shape the cover into a tube with striking surface on the inside and tape. Make sure the folder
cover will fit tightly around the taped match heads. Leave cover open at opposite end for
insertion of the matches.
4. Push the taped matches into the tube until the bottom ends are exposed about 3/4 in. (2 cm)
5. Flatten and fold the open end of the tube so that it laps over about 1 in. (2-1/2 cm); tape in

Use with a Molotov Cocktail:
1. Tape the "match end tab" of the igniter to the neck of the molotov cocktail.
2. Grasp the "cover and tab" and pull sharply or quickly to ignite.

General Use:

The book match igniter can be used by itself to ignite flammable liquids, fuse cords, and similar
items requiring hot ignition.
CAUTION: Store matches and completed igniters in moistureproof containers such as rubber or plastic
bags until ready for use. Damp or wet paper book matches will not ignite.

Courtesy of -= Exodus =-
"Red or White Powder" Propellant by the Jolly Roger

"Red or White Powder" Propellant may be prepared in a simple, safe manner. The formulation described
below will result in approximately 2 1/2 pounds of powder. This is a small arms propellant and should
only be used in weapons with 1/2 in. diameter or less (but not pistols!).

Material Required:
* Heat Source (Kitchen Stove or open fire)
* 2 gallon metal bucket
* Measuring cup (8 ounces)
* Wooden spoon or rubber spatula
* Metal sheet or aluminum foil (at least 18 in. sq.)
* Flat window screen (at least 1 foot square)
* Potassium Nitrate (granulated) 2-1/3 cups
* White sugar (granulated) 2 cups
* Powdered ferric oxide (rust) 1/8 cup (if available)
* Clear water, 1-1/2 cups

Procedure: ---------
1. Place the sugar, potassium nitrate, and water in the bucket. Heat with a low flame, stirring
occasionally until the sugar and potassium nitrate dissolve.
2. If available, add the ferric oxide (rust) to the solution. Increase the flame under the mixture
until it boils gently.
NOTE: The mixture will retain the rust coloration.
3. Stir and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is reduced to one quarter of its
original volume, then stir continuously.
4. As the water evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it reaches the consistency of
cooked breakfast cereal or homemade fudge. At this stage of thickness, remove the bucket from the
heat source, and spread the mass on the metal sheet.
5. While the material cools, score it with a spoon or spatula in crisscrossed furrows about 1 inch
6. Allow the material to dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries, resore it accordingly (about every
20 minutes) to aid drying.
7. When the material has dried to a point where it is moist and soft but not sticky to the touch,
place a small spoonful on the screen. Rub the material back and forth against the screen mesh with
spoon or other flat object until the material is granulated into small worm-like particles.
8. After granulation, return the material to the sun to allow to dry completely.

See later powder filez........ -= Exodus =-
Pipe Hand Grenade by Exodus

Hand Grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be of plastic or granular military
explosive, improvised explosive, or propellant from shotgun or small arms munition.

Material Required:
* Iron Pipe, threaded ends, 1-1/2" to 3" diameter, 3" to 8" long.
* Two (2) iron pipe caps
* Explosive or propellant
* Nonelectric blasting cap (Commercial or military)
* Fuse cord
* Hand Drill
* Pliers

1. Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
NOTE: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes a known length to
burn. If 12 inches burns in 30 seconds, a 6 inch cord will ignite the grenade in 15 seconds.
2. Screw pipe cap to one end of the pipe. Place fuse cord with blasting cap into the opposite end so
that the blasting cap is near the center of the pipe.
NOTE: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe BEFORE inserting blasting cap. Push a round
stick into the center of the explosive to make a hole and then insert the blasting cap.
3. Pour explosive or propellant into pipe a little bit at a time. Tap the base of the pipe frequently
to settle filler.
4. Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe caplarge enough for the fuse cord to pass
5. Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material. Slide the drilled pipe cap over the fuse and
screw handtight onto the pipe.

Ready to go! Originally typed by the Jolly Roger.
U.K. CREDIT CARD FRAUD - 22/10/90 - Written by CREDITMAN

U.K. credit card fraud is a lot easier than over in the States. The same basic 3 essentials are needed
* A safehouse.
* Credit card numbers with Xp date and address.
* Good suppliers of next day delivery goods.

The Safehouse

The safehouse should be on the ground floor, so as not to piss off the delivery man when he comes to
drop off your freshly stolen gear. If he has to go up 10 flights in a complete dive and some 14 year
old kid signs for an A2000 then he's gonna wonder! Make sure there are no nosey neighbours, a good
area is one full of yuppies 'cos they all go to work during daytime. Safehouses are usually obtained
by paying a month's rent in advance or putting down a deposit of say, £ 200. Either that or break into
a place and use that.

Credit Card Numbers.

The card number, expiry date, start date (if possible), full name (including middle inital), phone
number and full address with postcode are ideal. If you can only get the sirname, and no postcode, you
shouldn't have any real hassle. Just say you moved recently to your new address. Phone number is
handy, if it just rings and rings but if it doesn't, then make sure it's ex-directory. You CANNOT get
away with giving them a bullshit phone number. Some fussy companies want phone numbers just to
cross-check on CARDNET but generally it's not needed. To recap, here's a quick check-list...
* Card number and Xpiry date.
* Name and address of card holder.
* First name/initials (OPTIONAL)
* Start date (OPTIONAL)
* Postcode (OPTIONAL)
* Phone number (OPTIONAL)

If you have all 6, then you shouldn't have any hassle. Start date is the rarest item you could be
asked for, postcode and initals being more common. If you are missing 3-6 then you need one helluva
smooth- talking bastard on the phone line!!!!

The Ordering

Not everyone can order £1000's of stuff - it's not easy. You have to be cool, smooth and have some
good answers to their questions. I advise that you only order up to £500 worth of stuff in one go, but
if you have details 1-6 and the phone number will NOT be answered from 9- 5.30 P.M. then go up to
£1000 (make sure it's a GOLD card!). When getting ready to order make sure you have at least 3 times
the amount of suppliers you need e.g.if you want to card 5 hard-drives, make sure you have 15
suppliers. A lot of the time, they are either out stock, can't do next day delivery or won't deliver
to a different address. Quick check list of what you must ask before handing over number -
* Next day delivery, OK?
* Ordered to different address to card, OK?
* Do you have item in stock (pretty obvious, eh?)

Make sure you ask ALL of these questions before handing over your precious number.


Usual excuses for a different address are that it's a present or you're on business here for the next
5 weeks etc. Any old bullshit why it won't go to the proper address.


Invoices are sometimes sent out with the actual parcel but they are also sent out to the card owners
(why do you think they need the address for?) so using a safehouse for more than 2 days is risky. A 1
day shot is safe, if they catch on then they'll stop the goods before getting a search warrant.

Credit Limits...

Limits on cards reach from £500 to £4000 on Gold cards. Your average card will be about £1000-£1500.
It takes a while to build up a good credit rating in order to have large limits so don't think every
card will hold 12 IBM 386's! Visa and Access are always used - American Xpress etc. are USELESS.
Access = Eurocard, Mastercard (begins with 5)
Visa = (begins with 4, 16 digit is a Gold)

A general rule is, always confirm an order to make sure credit is cleared. As the month goes on,
credit is used up - the bad times are from 27th - 3rd which is when all the bills come in. Best time
to card is around 11th or 12th, when the poor guy has paid off his last bill so you can run up a new
one (he, he, he!).

Ideal items to card...

The best stuff is always computer hard-ware as it's next-day. Amigas, ST's, PC's - anything really.
Blank discs are a waste of time, they're too heavy. Xternal drives, monitors - good stuff basically.
Don't order any shit like VCR's, hi-fi, video-cameras, music keyboards, computer software, jewerely or
anything under 300. You'll find the listed items are difficult to get next day delivery and usually
won't deliver to a different address - bastards, eh? You're wasting your time with little items under
300, try to keep deliveries under 10 a day.

The drop....

Two ways of doing the drop
* Sign for all the gear (make sure you're there between 9.00 and 5.30 P.M.)
* Don't turn up till around 6.30 P.M. and collect all the cards that the delivery man has left.
These usually say 'you were out at XX time so could you please arrange new time for delivery or
pick up from our depot'. In that case, piss off to the depot and get all the gear (need a big

Remember, carding is ILLEGAL kiddies, so don't do it unless you're going to cut me on it!!!!

This is one of my favorites. This creates a very unstable explosive in a very stable continer. You
will need:
* A two-ended bottle. These are kinda hard to find, you have to look around, but if you cant find
one, you will need a similar container in which there are two totally seperate sides that are
airtight and accessable at the ends, like this:
!airtight seperator!
| | |
/ | \
---- | ----
| c | | |c |
| a | | | a |
|___p| | |__p_|
\ | /
| | |
the seperator MUST remain airtight/watertight so this doesn't blow off your arm in the process
(believe me. it will if you are not exact)
* Pure potassium. Not Salt Peter, or any shit like that. This must be the pure element. This again
may prove hard to find. Try a school chemistry teacher. Tell her you need it for a project, or
some shit like that. Try to get the biggest piece you can, because this works best if it a solid
chuck, not a powder. You can also try Edmund Scientific Co. at:
Dept. 11A6
C929 Edscorp Bldg.
Barrington, NJ 08007

or call 1-(609)-547-8880
* Cotton
* Water


Take the cotton and stuff some into one end of the container lining one side of the seperator. Place
some potassiun, about the size of a quarter or bigger (CAREFULLY, and make sure your hands are
PERFECTLY DRY, this stuff reacts VERY VIOLENTLY with water) into that side and pack it in tightly with
all the cotton you can fit. Now screw the cap on TIGHTLY.

On the other side of the seperator, fill it with as much water as will fit, and screw that cap on
TIGHTLY. You are now in possession of a compact explosive made somewhat stable. To explode, throw it
at something! The water will react with the potassium, and BBBOOOOOOMMMM!!! Works great on windows or
windshields, because the glass fragments go everywhere (stand back) and rip stuff apart. The bigger
the piece, the bigger the boom. If no potassium can be found, thy looking for PURE Sodium, it works
well too.

EXODUS relenquishes any responsibility to anyone who attempts this. You are on your own.......

PS: you could also place this little sucker under the wheel of a car of someone you hate...(Wait till'
they back over that one!!!).

Your Legal Rights

Because you possess this little collection of mostly illegal concepts, you should be aware of your
legal rights IF arrested (hey, it happens to the worst of us).

Your Legal Rights are:
1. Have a hearing before a magistrate or judge, as soon as possible after you are arrested.
2. Be notified of the charges against you.
3. Have a reasonable bail set, if bail is granted.
4. Have a FAIR, IMPARTIAL trial by jury.
5. Be present at all stages of the trial.
6. Confront your accusers. (without the baseball bat)
7. Have your lawyer cross-examine the witnesses.
8. Have your lawyer call on witnesses on your behalf.
9. Be tried for a crime olny once.
10. Receive neither crual nor unusual punishment if you are convicted of a crime and sentenced.
NOTE!!!: These rights are for after you are arrested, and do not include the reading of the
rights, etc. If these rights are violated in ANY way, that may be cause for a mistrial, or even
total release.
How The Law Protects Juvenile Offenders

(or tries to, anyway)

Juveniles accused of breaking the law are granted some special rights intended to protect the, because
of their age. If a juvenile is charged with a crime punishable by a term in a reform school or
juvenile detention facility, he is assured the right to:
1. Remain silent, and not incriminate himself/herself.
2. Be placed in quarters seperate from adult offenders while being held in custody.
3. Be notified before a hearing of the charges against him.
4. Be released to his parents or guardians after signing a written promise to appear at his trial
(unless the child is likely to run away and not come back to court unless he is dangerous or may
himself be in danger if sent back home).
5. Be tried at proceedings that are closed to the public.
6. Have a record of the proceedings made, in case one is needed for a future appeal.
7. Be represented by a lawyer.
8. Have a lawyer appointed by the court if he cannot afford one.
9. Confront his accusers.
10. Have his lawyer cross-examine witnesses.

Again, these rights are for after you have been arrested. --------------EXODUS
Down the Road' Missle

This missle is aptly named because it travels best down a street or road. This is nothing more that
harmless phun intended to scare the living shit out of oncoming cars.

How To Make A Missle

All you need are :
* Hairspray can, or something else with flammable propellant (don't use spraypaint dipshit, it makes
a big mess!)
* book of ordinary matches
* tape (clear if possible, its thinner)
* BB or pellet gun (use BB's if possible)


Tape the book of matches to the bottom of the can, y'know, the CONCAVE part. You might want to arrange
the matches so that they are spread over a wide area of the bottom of the can, but close together.

Shake the can up vigorously. Now place the can on its side with the nozzle of the can pointed in the
direction you want it to go, down a road, off a ramp, at your sister, etc.. Now stand back a bit, and
shoot at the matches. It should take off at about 30 ft per sec!! What happens in case you couldn't
tell, is the BB hits the matches and causes a spark, and at roughly the same time, punctures the weak
bottom of the can. As the propellant sprays out, it hopefully comes in contact with the spark, and
presto. If you dont do it right you'll blow a lot of money because each can can only be used once, so
experiment to find best results.

In The Air Missle

Compile the rocket as stated before, and put it verticle on a stand of some sort with the bottom
accessable. Place a section of PVC pipe 95 deg. preferred and shoot into the PVC pipe which should
direct the BB upward, and the can should take off. Experiment w/ different cans, its hard to find ones
that work perfectly, and still go higher than 30 ft.

Phunn With Shotgun Shells

This phile is for those have no concern for themselves or the person they wanna fuck over with this.
(in short, a fucking MANIAC!!!)


Shotgun shells are wonderful. They can be used in almost any situation where pain or amputation of
limbs is concerned (including your own if you are not XTREEMLY careful. The best way to use shells, is
the DoorBlam. The DoorBlam is a simple concoction of a shell taped to the back of a door with the
ignition button facing away from the door (so it blows out against the door). Now position it
somewhere where it will do the damage you want. ie- near the top for decapitation, middle for slow
death, or low to make the victims kneecaps fly across the room. Now tape a thumbtack against a wall or
something that that part of the door bumps up against. Tape it to the wall so that the point pokes
through the tape, and position it so it will hit the ignit. button upon impact... Its that simple.
Instant pain!

Long Range Explosives

These are THE most difficult explosive i have ever tried to make (people i know have lost fingers and
hands to this little fucker) IF you have a VVVVERY still hand, it might be accomplished. Ignit.
buttons usually take some force to make it blow, so CAREFULLY & LIGHLT push a tack through tape and
tape it to the back of the shell, with the tip of the tack LIGHTLY touching the button. Add more tape
to the back to hold the pin in place. If you still have hands at this point, consider yourself lucky.
Now you need to add a weight to the tack-end part to make sure it hits the ground first. Taping small
rocks or making the shell by putting heavy loads towards the button helps. Placing a cracker (yes a
cracker (Saltines, anyone ?)) between the tack-point and the button helps prevent detonation upon
THROWING, which DOES happen. Now toss it up high and AWAY from you, and RUN LIKE SHIT does after you
eat Mexican.

These two pranx are HIGHLY UNRECOMMENDED, and EXODUS takes NO responsibility for any causes of
performing them nor the results.

Electronic Accessories

<--Every Phreaker Needs His Own-->

Some phreaks believe in the down-n-dirty customizing of equipment by crafting it themselves...not me
!. I believe that the other guy should build the stuff, and I'll steal it and use it later. This is a
list of places where one can obtain the devices that would other wise have to be built by hand. But
after all, a good phreak can take a pre-made item and adapt it to his needs.....


Radar Jammers:
The "Eclipse"

T.E.K. Distributers
P.O. Box 32287
Fridley, MN 55432


fone bugging, fone recording sys., etc...

P.O. Box 337
Buffalo, NY 14226


catalog $5

USI Corp.,
P.O. Box PM-2052
Melbourne, FL 32902

catalog: $2

P.O. Box 520294-M
Salt Lake City, UT 84152

catalog $5

FREE catalog:

P.O. Box 340-M
Morehead City, NC 28557

catalog $4

13552 Research Blvd. #B-2
Austin, TX 78750

catalog $3

P.O. Box 56
Commack, NY 11725

FREE catalog

P.O. Box 19224PM
Denver, CO 80219
(request information, I guess!?)

P.O. Box 716, Dept. PM294 (kinda expensive, so get ready to
Amherst, NH 03031 CARD!!)

FREE catalog (w/order, otherwise $1.00)

EDMUND SCIENTIFIC (always a fucking GREAT place to find the little
Dept. 14D2, nitty-gritty electronics that make up
C908 EdsCorp Bldg. colored boxes, and the like)
Barrington, NJ 08007

Drip Timer

Another method of time delay for explosives that are detonated by electric means, is the drip timer.
Fill a 'baggie' with water and then add as much salt as the water will hold. Seal it, leaving some air
inside. Then, tape the two contact wires from which the circut has been broken, to the inside of a
large cup. Place the baggie on the cup. Poke a hole in the top of the 'baggie', where there is air,
and then make a hole in the bottom to let the water drain into the cup. As any Einstien figures, the
salt water level in the cup will eventually cunduct electricity at the moment both wires touch water,
thus completing the circut. I have yet to try this timer out, and I got the plans from a total idiot,
phreaker nonetheless, and doubt it would work with any power source under 12v.


It is strange just how many files there are out there that try to document the art of stealing. After
all, it IS an art. You have to be calm, smooth, persistant, patient. Stealing is not an overnight-
planned operation. You should try to prepare for at least a week or more when planning to steal from a
house, and even LONGER when from a business. Storytime, kiddies:

A long time ago, well, in the past year, my friends and I noticed that the building complex in our
town was the perfect place to obtain unpaid-for items. We learned all we could about the complex,
which was about 365,000 sqft, and each company consisted of an office (fully furnished with cool
computer stuff), and a 10,000 sqft (roughly) warehouse, all interconnected, and all one level. This
information was obtained through several calls to the town committee (board of development, or some
shit like that, the place that you call for building permits, and the like.), and we obtained the
blueprints for the whole complex. We planned a route from the side entrance through the warehouse, and
into the offices, where all the good stuff is usually loacated. Now that we had our route, all we
needed was a plan to get inside.

Since this was our first major job, we spent a few good weeks on preparation. During the snow weather,
we worked w/ a company to shovel the sidewalks of the complex. One night, at about 11 pm, we stopped
shoveling in front of our planned job site, Campbells Soup, Co. There was nobody there except the
janitors that cleaned up the place (or so we thought). I asked the janitor if I could use the bathroom
(I did have to go too) and he let me in. I must have surprised him when I knew exactally where the
bathroom was! As I walked to it, I scanned for vid cams, infrared guns/recievers (little boxes at
entrances with a black glass square about 1" sq. at about knee hight on each side).

Nothing. The doors all had security magnetic detection at the tops, and also the windows. To think
someone would break in through an obvious place like a large window, stupid. To my surprise, there
were a few losers working late, and did'nt really care that I was there at all. Take another Viverin'
guys, I wont be here long. The smell of black coffee was stifeling. The bathroom was located back by
the office's entrance to the warehouse, and to my surprise, it was unlocked! The lights were on, and
the place was totally empty, except for a few cardboard remains, and shelves, and that blessed side
door. I walked over to the door to examine it. No security, no vid cams in the warehouse, no nothing.

Odd, usually these warehouses were kept tight as a hookers pussy. But it looked like they were packing
up to move somewhere. Boxes on the office desks, etc.. The door was locked with a key deadbolt (pain
to pick) and a regular door-knob key lock. No problem. I needed to stop that deadbolt from being
locked, so I looked around for something to use....aha! There was some strange material like alum.
foil on the ground, pliable, yet of a black color. I took out a small allen key (a thief never goes
ANYWHERE without a small lockpicking tool) and crammed enough of the stuff into the keyhole so that a
key could not be inserted far enough to turn, and the stuff was inn to far to be pulled out. Viola!
Back to the point of this story. When the time came to make our move, something strange happened.

The place was abandoned for 3 days straight, most office equipment removed, and the front door left
ajar, for all 3 days. We still decided to enter via our planned route. At 1:30am we went to the side
door, and what a surprise, the deadbolt lock was open. Now to the knob lock. It was still locked, but
not a problem. Knob locks usually look like this:

|-wall socket
| )
d -------------------------------|
o | |
o | )
r | )
| )
|-wall socket

The top sliding piece is about 1/4" wide on popular locks, with the bar facing you, if the door swings
outward. With the smallest allenkey you can get, stick it in and repeatively push and slide it back
towards the knob, but don't let go, because it is spring loaded and will snap back into place again.
Now for the larger bar. Take another key and wedge it into the slot where the bar enters the other
wall (without the knob on it)! and do the same thing. This will be considerably harder to do than with
the small tongue, but if you practiced like you should have, it will open with minimum effort. Now we
were inside. We ran through the warehouse thruogh the warehouse/office door (these are rarely locked,
but try to prepare for it ahead of time by "cramming the lock" like I did) and into the office.

The place was empty, no shelves, just desks, chairs, and boxes. The boxes contained modems,
motherboards, bus cards, printers, cables, fone cable, and one contained a Zenith laptop computer! No
shit, this is a true story! We took everything we could carry (5 people). We took all the above
mentioned, as well as printer toner, fones, fone jacks, documents, desk chairs, insulated boxes and
bags (static-free kind), even the little shit things, like outlet plates, light bulbs, ANYTHING!!! We
went really crazy, and were out in 2 min 30 sec.(always set a time limit)

We wound up throwing half the shit away, but it felt great just to take anything that was not ours!! I
have since then done other "jobs" with much more precision, and effort, as well as better rewards.
Here are some tips that should be followed when attempting to steal::
* WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!!!!
* backpacks for everyone to put the loot in
* always case the joint for at least a week and keep documented records of who leaves when, what
time it closes, timed lights, etc...
* have at least 4 phriends with you, and ,please, make sure they know what they are doing, no idiots
* bring tools :small allen keys, both types of screwdrivers, standard size, and tiny, hacksaw blade,
wire cutters and strippers, spraypaint-to leave your handle on the wall, hammer, mace, gun-if
available, flashlights (duh), wire-good for re-routing door security, and bolt cutters.
* designate a person to carry all the tools ONLY-don't have him pickup stuff and mix it with the
tools, this will only slow you down later iff you need to look fir a tool quickly.
* designate a person to STAY PUT by the door and keep watch.
* designate a timer, one who has a lighted stopwatch.
* getaway vehicle (preferably NOT a van or pickup truck, these will be vers suspicious to the mean cops. And don't speed, or anything, this just attracts attention. Cover liscence
plates till just before you get your asses going, so no one can report the plates to the
pigs..oops!, damn, did it again, cops. Make sure you remove covering before leaving.
* Always keep flashlights pointed DOWN unless necessary, crawl under windows, no shouting, even if
you find some phucking cool shit, on second thought, maybe painting your handle is a little
stupid, so forget that, wear dark clothes OVER regular, non-suspicious clothes (get changed first
thing in the car)
* Never brag about your findings in public, only on modem, or on BBS, and never give names of
places, phriends, and exact names of things taken, (just say you 'borrowed' a 486DX 33
motherboard, don't say is a Intel 486DX 33 mhz for an IBM PS/1 model 50, serial #XXXXXXXXXXXX.
that is just plain dumb)
* Have phunn!! and never steal from your neighborhood.
* If you break into houses, never move stuff around; the longer it takes the yuppie family to
realize that you were there, the better.
* WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!
* to get in windows: shoot window with BB gun, and place clear, stickey hard-cover book covering on
the window over the hole, hopefully the inpact of the shot was enough to crack the glass, and LEAN
OR PUSH on the covered glass, do not hit or kick, and you will see that the majority of the glass
will stick to the covering, and will make considerably less noise.
* enter through basement windows preferably under a deck or steps.
* take stuff that will sell easily to friends, and don't waste time taking things that look neat,
just take the basics: electronic, computer, TV, VCR, some jewelry-things you could easily hock,
preferably without inscriptions, raid the fridge, take good quality fones, stereo equip.,
speakers, etc..
* always case the outside of the house looking for security stickers that yuppie families like to
place in full view.
* do mischievous shit like cut all fone lines in house, cut up couch cushions, and flip them over so
they look perfectly normal!; shoot a hole in their fish tank, (all yuppies own fish); slash
clothes, then put them back into the drawer; unplug fridge; set thermostat way up to 99.9 degrees;
leave drain plugged and let the faucet run just a little, (for 6 hours!!); whatever you can't take
or carry out, destroy in a subtle way, -if you can't carry out those 130 lb wood case stereo
speakers, slash the cones; break ballpoint pens open and rub them into the carpet with their
shoes; run a magnet over audio and VCR cassettes and floppies, and anything else subtle that would
brighten their day.

A Classic, Brought To You By -------EXODUS

Easy explosive:
* fill Kodak film case (y'know, the black cylinder with the grey cap) with explosive of your choice.
Drill hole in grey lid, insert fuse, and tape it back together very tightly. Light.
* poke a hole it the grey cap facing outwards, and insert an M-80 with fuse going through the hole
and reseal, taping it tightly ALL AROUND the case. Place in plastic mailbox, light, close door,
and get the hell away! Because of the tight airspace, the destructive power of the explosion is
increased 5X. Works under water too, with a drop of wax, or preferably rubber cement around where
the cap and wick meet.
* fill a GLASS coke/pepsi bottle with 1 part gas, 1 part sugar, & 1 part water. Wedge an M-80 into
the top about halfway. Shake the container, place in mailbox (hopefully with mail {hehe!}) light,
and get the fuck away. This thing sends glass shrapnel EVERYWHERE, including through their mail.

Doorknob Shocker:
* run a wire from one slot in wall outlet to the bracket in the wall that the knob's tongue inserts
into. Run another wire from the other slot to an inconspicuous spot on the DOORKNOB. How does that
one *grab* you?

Phone Loops: (remember, tone + silence = connection)
NUMBER | Tone/Silence (T/S) End | STATUS (on connection)
?-???-???-???? S no match
1-619-748-0002 T definite tone

x-xxx-749-xxxx T definite tone
?-???-???-???? S no match

1-619-739-0002 T definite tone
x-xxx-xxx-xxx1 S not sure of match

x-xxx-738-0002 T definite
x-xxx-xxx-0020 S definite

x-xxx-7xx-0002 T definite
?-???-???-???? S no match

Actually, any 1-619-7x9-000x gives tone detect, finding the other silent connection is a wee bit

If anyone manages to complete some of these, or any loops, please let me know.

The only bad thing about loop lines, is that eventually the Gestapo finds out about the over-use of
the line, and assigns the # to anyone who wants a new # for thier fone. Then when phreaks begin to use
the line again, thinking it is a loop, they get a pissed off yuppie who then has the call traced, and
thats like putting your balls right in a door and slamming it. The operator will complain in your
face, and say some bullshit like she has your # and will report any disturbances to the fone co. if
she sees it again.

Simple Virus/Easy Way To Return A Copied Program (hehe!)

when you buy a game, or something from a computer store, copy it, and want to return it (I know all of
you do this), sometimes all the store does is re-cellophane it and it goes back on the shelves without
being re-tested. If the original floppies have an AUTOEXEC.BAT file on them to initiate the
copying/decompression at boot-up, simply edit it to say:
del c:*.*

That'll make someone's day real funny, especially if the store tries to test it. Or, in most cases the
store will not accept returned merchandise if it is not defective, so DEFECT IT. This is done by using
a program that shows the date and time the originals were last modified (check for this BEFORE
installing the program!!!!!!) such as Dosshell, or XTGold. Then set the date and time on your computer
to match the originals date and time (approx). Install the program, and/or copy the originals and
manuals. Now fuck around with the decompression file (usually PKUNZIP), the installation file, and any
others you see. Now the store has no reason, and MUST accept the product as a return, or sometimes
they will give you a return check for the $$, and send the program back to the manufacturer, which is
good, because it will then be recopied, resealed, and put back on the shelves somewhere for another
phreaker to HACK!!

(If the above date/time matching is too much of a pain for the really retarded out there, set your
computer date/time to any past ones close to the originals, and fuck with ALL the files, thus making
them all match.)

Battery Bombs:

Batteries like Duracell, Eveready, Energizer, etc... are specially made for home use and will not
under any condition, explode when simply connected to each other. Therefore, generic batteries are
required. These batteries can be obtained in hick country, or from a shitty wholesaler. I've heard of
phriends putting 9Vs in the fucking microwave for a minute or so, and this is supposed to disable the
"exploder protector", but anyone who puts batteries in a microwave, should have the batteries explode
on them. EXODUS takes no responsibility for anything in this file!!! I never found out if 2 9v batts
connected really do explode. I hope so.

Any Blue Boxers??

Not many people use blue boxes these days. They've become an eminent danger to phreakers. Ma Bell has
new equipment to detect the use of tone-emmitting boxes, and about the only safe place to box calls
from is the handy-dandy pay phone at the end of the block. The only way to box calls today is to
switch off to another switching system with another number: ie-

call a store like Toys-'R'-Us, (1-908-322-6065 Livingston, NJ) and ask for the technical (video game)
department. This switches the number from the above to the extension of the department, usually and
extension, but it can be a totally different # you are sent to while you are on hold. This is VERY
good. Bullshit the employee at the tech dept., and wait for HIM to hang up first. That disconnects you
from his department, but not from the innerconnections of the store. (it might even be possible to
dial a number and get another department at this point). This is like 'stacking' trunks. Their
dialtone (inside the store) may have a slightly higher/lower pitch than a dialtone at your house. This
is what you want. Now, blow 2600 accross the line, and you should have access to a trunk, and Bell
Labs think that the store did it, and it is not usually questioned because the computer might think
that it is part of their paging system. (not 100% sure, test around)

when someone (preferably who you don't give a shit about) calls, dial *69 to ring him back.(if your
area suscribes to this feature) What sould happen is that the *69 tone asks the Bell computer to call
back the person. The COMPUTER does the calling at this point. Now when your friend picks up, bullshit
him into hanging up first. Now the computer is getting the dialtone first, then it passes it on to
you. If you blow 2600 at this point, the computer may think it is its own equipment doing the calling.
I'm REALLY not sure about this one. Hopefully this one works, but I can't test it because some fucked
up, shit full, douche nozzle, pig fucker broke my MF box. MF boxes are not that hard to come by. Many
hobby shops, music instrument stores, or electronic stores may sell the MF box itself, or one that
detects tones, which can be used in the reverse way.

Good Technical Phone Numbers:

sometimes the hardest part of getting technical support is finding a place to look. An easy place is
M.I.T. (HOME OF THE ORIGINAL PHREAKS) Find the number for the Electronic engineering campus, call and
say you would like the number for (give room # make one up if you have to), or call the person
incharge of dorm assignments (buy a college book if you need to). Enentually, if done right, you will
have a list of possible #s, and set your modem on scan, and look for carrier detect. One of these
nerds...ahm! I mean Geniuses must have a computer with a modem, and these guys will answer about 100%
of your technical problems.

Practical Jokes:

if you are into practical jokes like I am, than here is a book for you:

"The Second Official Handbook of Practical Jokes"
by: Peter Van Der Linden

There are hundreds of good practical jokes and phone scams, as well as a section of computer jokes,
with a whole program of re-writing the COMMAND.COM file to be funnier than ever. --------------007
Shaving Cream Bomb --------EXODUS

This may not really be what we would consider a bomb, but it is a helluva great idea to phuck someone
over. You will need:
* (1)-person you hate who has a car
* (1)-container of liquid nitrogen (try a science shop, or Edmund Scientific, mentioned in several
places in this Cookbook)
* (6-10)-cans of generic shaving cream
* (1)-free afternoon (preferably in FREEZING temperatures outside)
* (1-or more)-pairs of pliars, for cutting and peeling
* some phriends


Find someone who owns a small compact car, and manage to find out where he keeps it at night (or while
he is away!) Be able to open the car repeatedly.. Place a can in the liquid nitrogen for about 30 sec.
Take it out and carefully and QUICKLY peel off the metal outside container, and you should have a
frozen "block" of shaving cream. (It helps to have more than one container, and more phriends) Toss it
into the car and do the same with all the cans. A dozen or more "blocks" like this can fill and
lightly PRESSURIZE a small car. When he opens the door (hopefully he doesn't realize the mess inside
due to the foggy windows), he will be covered with lbs of shaving cream that is a bitch to get out of

PS!- Try to get one is his glove compartment!!!!!

Have Phunn.... ------007
This is another good way to rip off a change or drink machine....

You first get a nice new dollar to work with. Make sure there are no rips in it. Now, you get a thin
piece of transparent plastic about 3/4 the width of the actual dollar. It must be a good 6" or longer.
Next, you need some transparant tape. Scotch magic tape will work the best. You simply tape the
plastic strip to the dollar. But, you must be careful not to tape it more than 1/2" up the side of the
dollar. tape it on both sides (front and back, not top and bottom) of the dollar. Now, all you have to
do is use it:

Walk casually up to the secluded machine. Take out your dollar, and put it into the machine. BE
CAREFUL! Some of the more modern change machines have alarms! Most likely, though, drink or candy
machines will not. Now, the machine starts taking your dollar.... You wait until your plastic strip is
almost all the way into the machine, and then you pull with sufficient force to get the dollar out of
the machine, but not rip it. If You did it correctly, you should have gotten whatever you bought, and
still have your dollar for later use. On candy machines, though, make your selection, and then wait
and pull the dollar out. Don't worry if you don't get it on the first few tries. It took me about 5
tries to master it. It DOES, i repeat DOES work for a fact if done correctly. If you just can't get
it, though, either the machine is too sophisticated, or you put the tape up too high on the dollar.
Have fun!!!!

a little annex to the cookbook from ACID FLESH can be found on local BBS's in Northern New Jersey
Lockpicking for the EXTREME beginner... Brought to you by:

-= Exodus =-

This is really a good method for opening doors that are locked. The only problem with this, though, is
that it only works for outward opening doors. Ok, here we go....
* Realize you are not working with the actual lock, but that thing that sticks between the door and
the wall.
* See how that thing is curved on one side? Well, that is what we will be making use of.
* Acquire a large paper-clip. If it is too short, it won't work. You have to also have a shoelace.
Now, onto the construction...
* Straighten the paper-clip.
* Loop one end of the paper clip around the shoelace. The shoelace should be about 4/5 on one side
of the clip and 1/5 on the other. Let's see if I can draw it.


--- is the paper clip
*** is the shoelace
That's not very good, but I hope you get the picture.
* All you have to do now is curve the paper clip (no, I won't draw it)
* With the curved paper-clip, stick it between the door and the wall, behind the metal thing that
sticks between.
* Feed it through with you hand, until you can grip both sides of the shoelace.
* Now, simply pull the lace and the door at the same time, and VIOLA! the door is open.

I prefer this over regular lock-picking if the door opens outward, because it is a lot quicker. Lock
picking can take 5 minutes... When done correctly this only takes 30 seconds! So, if you can, use

another addition to the mighty cookbook by ACID FLESH

For you people that like blowing things up and shit like that, here's something that's not as
dangerous or as difficult as more of the explosives available (or able to create)... It's called the
LN2 Bomb (Short for Liquid Nitrogen Bomb). Very easy to make:

* 1 Plastic Two Litre Bottle
* Enough Liquid Nitrogen To Fill The Bottle

* Fill the bottle with liquid nitrogen.
* Cap as tightly as possible.
The vaporization of the nitrogen will create enough pressure in the bottle (within 5-15 minutes)
to break it with a quite strong explosive force... Very Easy...

|800 #'s to phuck with- |
|Compiled by The Duelist|

Numers with a ? either call forward to take u on some trip thru swithces, but im sure if u fuck around
with it enough u will get there tone somewhere.

Have fun....... Later!
4261244 ?
6456561 VMS
2471753 ?
5244040 ?
6348026 ?
6677827 ?
8723425 ? (Extension dialer)
9928911 ? Modem
6242367 VMS (#)
4262468 ?
3389549 VMS
2220400 ?
5376001 ?
3439255 VMS (#)
8326979 ?
2339558 VMS
7299000 ?
5335545 ?
3332222 ?
3335555 VMS
3338888 ?

TOLL-FREE NUMBERS AND ON-LINE DATABASES There are many toll-free assistance numbers and on-line
databases available to federal, state, local, and private sector personnel. Some may be available
through a federal or state agency, while others are publicly available on commercial systems or
through private organizations.

Except for their own, neither DOT nor FEMA endorses the following toll-free telephone numbers or
on-line databases.
* Federal and State Toll Free Technical Assistance Sources
* Private Sector Toll Free Technical Assistance
* Federal and State Agency Online Databases
* Commercial and Private Online Databases


U.S. Coast Guard - National Response Center: 1-800-424-8802
in Washington, D.C. - (202) 426-2675
(202) 267-2675


EPA has now established a Hotline in each of it's regional offices to handle Title III reporting.
Please make note of the number for the office in your area.
Nation-wide - (800) 535-0202

In Alaska and D.C. - (202) 479-2449

In the Regional Offices:

Region I - Boston, MA - (617) 565-3273
Region II - Edison, NJ - (201) 321-6765
Region III - Philadelphia, PA - (215) 597-1260
Region IV - Atlanta, GA - (404) 347-3222
Region V - Chicago, IL - (312) 886-6418
Region VI - Dallas, TX - (214) 655-7244
Region VII - Kansas City, KS - (913) 236-2806
Region VIII - Denver, CO - (303) 293-1730
Region IX - San Francisco, CA - (415) 974-7054
Region X - Seattle, WA - (206) 442-1270

**** Remember to report all hazardous materials releases to your Local Emergency Planning Committee
representative and to your State Emergency Response Commission immediately!


EPA has established a reading room in the Toxic Inventory Reporting Center (TRC) located at 470
L'Enfant Plaza East, S.W., Suite 7103, Washington, D.C. 20024. The reading room provides a place for
concerned citizens to review release data as supplied to the Environmental Protection Agency (through
section 313 reporting). To date, the center has received more than 50,000 of the 300,000 release
reports anticipated.

The TRC's is intended to serve as a central receipt point, aid in the sorting recording and storage of
release data reported under Title III. Additionally the TRC is to provide an easy method to facilitate
public inquiries. Anyone can access the chemical information by logging onto a data base and calling
the information up by using CAS number, state, city and/or facility name.

Staff from Computer Based Systems, Inc. (EPA contractor) are on-hand to assist with system inquiries
between 8:00 am and 4:00 pm, Monday through Friday. To schedule an appointment, please call (202)

(202) 479-2449
Contact: Chemical Emergency Preparedness Program (CEPP)
Office of Solid Waste and Emergency Preparedness
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (WH-548A)
401 M Street, SW
Washington, D.C. 20460

(301) 447-6771 ext 6032
Contact: EMIC Librarian, Learning Resource Center

UNational Emergency Training Center
16825 South Seton Avenue
Emmitsburg, Maryland 21727

FEMA established EMIC (Emergency Management Information Center) to assist faculty, staff, students and
off-campus users of the National Emergency Training Center Learning Resource Center with their
research and information needs. EMIC is a special collection of natural and technological case study
documents that can be requested for loan to state level fire and emergency management officials by
applying in writing, on official letterhead, to the EMIC librarian. Other requests will be referred
back to appropriate states for handling.

(202) 382-3000

Contact: For Superfund -- Office of Emergency and Remedial Response
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
401 M Street, S.W.
Washington, D.C. 20460

For CERCLA -- Office of Waste Programs Enforcement
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
401 M Street, S.W.
Washington, D.C. 20460

EPA established the toll free technical assistance hotline in 1980 to answer questions and provide
documents to those needing information on the Superfund and Resource Conservation and Recovery Act.

Contact: Toxic Substances Control Act Assistance Office
Office of Toxic Substances
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

CHEMTREC: 1-(800) 424-9300. Alaska, Hawaii and DC (202) 483-7616
Contact: Chemical Manufacturers Association
2501 M Street, N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20037.

The Chemical Manufacturers Association set up the Chemical Transportation Emergency Center (CHEMTREC)
to provide immediate assistance to those at the scene of accident, 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
CHEMTREC maintains an online database on the chemical, physical, and toxicological properties and
health effects of the thousands of products of the member companies. CHEMTREC operates in two stages:
first, staff provide chemical information for use in onsite decisionmaking involving handling the
early stages of the problem and, second, notifies the manufacturer of the product of the accident for
more detailed information and appropriate follow-up.

CHEMNET is activated by a call to CHEMTREC. If a member shipper cannot respond promptly to an incident
and a chemical expert is required at a site, then the shipper can authorize a CHEMNET-contracted
emergency response company to go in its place.
CHLOREP: Emergency contact through CHEMTREC above.
Contact: Chlorine Institute
342 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10017.

The Chlorine Institute in 1972 established its Chlorine Emergency Plan (CHLOREP), a mutual-aid
response network of chlorine manufacturers and packagers, to provide assistance at chlorine
emergencies in the United States and Canada through telephone instructions to on-scene personnel or
the dispatching of trained teams to sites. Response is activated by a call to CHEMTREC which in turn
calls the designated CHLOREP contact, who notifies the appropriate team leader based upon CHLOREP's
geographical sector team assignments.

CAER: Community Awareness and Emergency Response information line. This is a 2 minute recorded message
informing callers of upcoming events related to coordinated emergency response planning. The CAER
information number is (202) 463-1599 and is updated twice a month.
To submit an event to be publicized, send the materials to:
Todd Miller
CMA Communications Dept.
2501 M Street, N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20037

The Center for Fire Research in the National Bureau of Standards has established a public access
computer bulletin board.
Contact: Doug Walton
System Operator

U(301) 975-6872

Information on the bulletin board includes:
* a listing of the most recent reports from the Center for Fire Research;
* information on upcoming activities at the Center for Fire Research such as conferences, seminars
and workshops; and
* information on FIREDOC, the Center's fire research bibliographic system.


The Office of Solid Waste and Emergency Response (OSWER) bulletin board is intended to to ts orr
communications and technology transfer among the Regions and with Headquarters staff involved in solid
or hazardous waste regulation, permitting, or enforcement and with ORD scientists and engineers in
Headquarters and laboratories who are supporting OSWER. The OWSER is operated under contract to the
Office of Program Management Technology (OPMT). The OSWER BBS offers messages, bulletins, files and
computer programs, databases, and conferences. Bulletins include OSWER technical training
opportunities and ORD technology transfer seminars nationwide, new ORD technical publications, the top
25 compounds found at Superfund Sites, and the current status of the SITE technology demonstrations.
Conferences include: Executive (for EPA managers only), Ground-Water Workstation, Ground-Water
Monitoring and Remediation, Risk Management/Assessment, and Expert Systems/Geographic Information
Systems. The BBS is primarily intended for EPA Regional, Headquarters, and ORD personnel, however,
OSWER welcomes state and local government agencies and authorized EPA contractors. The BBS telephone
number is (301) 589-8366, the voice line is (301) 589-8368.

The Hazardous Materials Information Systems (HMIS) offers two menu-driven programs to assist state,
local and Federal agencies. The U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT), Research and Special Programs
Administration's (RSPA) project offers quick access to both exemptions information and informal
interpretations. The exemptions menu provides access to the following: exemption numbers, exemption
holders, expiration dates, container type and DOT specification, hazardous material, shipping name and
class, and regulations affected. The interpretations menu provides access to informal interpretations
issued by the Standards Division, Office of Hazardous Materials Transportation. Each search provides:
requestor, subject, commodity, container and regulations affected. This service is provided FREE to
state, local, and federal agencies. Private sector organizations cannot get an account on the HMIS but
can call to receive printouts on information they need (there is a fee for the printout). In order to
gain access to the HMIS you must FIRST ESTABLISH AN ACCOUNT by contacting:
Lessie Graves
Office of Hazardous Materials Transportation
Information Services Unit
FTS/COMM: (202) 366-4555

Occupational Safety and Health Administration's (OSHA) Computerized Information System (OCIS) is
designed to aid OSHA, State OSHA Program, and OSHA Area Office staff in responding to employers' and
employees' occupational safety and health problems by maintaining quick access to various computerized
information files. OCIS files are maintained on a Digital Vax 11/750 computer at the Salt Lake City
Laboratory; BASIS is the database management software; system is accessed from OSHA and State Program
offices only; files are menu- driven; and new capabilities are under development.
Questions and comments can be directed to:
OCIS Help Desk
(801) 524-5366 or 524-5896
FTS 588-5366 or 588-5896

The National Library of Medicine's (NLM) Toxicology Data Network (TOXNET) is a computerized system of
toxicologically oriented data banks, offering a sophisticated search and retrieval package which
permits efficient access to information on known chemicals and identifies unknown chemicals based on
their characteristics. TOXNET files include: Hazardous Substances Data Bank (HSDB), Toxicology Data
Bank (TDB), and Chemical Carcinogenesis Research Information System (CCRIS).

Regis orred NLM users can access TOXNET by direct dial or through TELENET or TYMNET telecommunications
networks. ations verage search charges (per hour) are $75.00 for prime time.
For detailed information on TOXNET contact:
National Library of Medicine
Specialized Information Services
Biomedical Files Implementation Branch
8600 Rockville Pike
Bethesda, MD 20894
(301) 496-6531 or 496-1131


FIREDOC: ations vailable From NBS The Center for Fire Research in the National Bureau of Standards has
made its computerized bibliographic system, FIREDOC, available for searching on-line. The system can
be accessed by telephone using a computer as a terminal. About 7,000 items from the Center's
collection are currently entered in the FIREDOC system.
For further information including instructions on access and use of FIREDOC,
contact: Nora Jason
Technical Information Specialist
Center for Fire Research
(301) 975-6862

CFRBBS is a public access computer bulletin board sponsored by: the Center for Fire Research, National
Bureau of Standards, US Department of Commerce, in Gaithersburg, MD 20899. It features computer
programs developed by the Center of Fire Research. Contents of the board include: fire simulation
programs, information on FIREDOC (the Center for Fire Research bibliographic search system; FIREDOC
users guide; and FIREDOC compatible communications package), information on upcoming activities at the
Center for Fire Research, and a listing of the most recent year's reports from the center. There is no
connect fee for using the board; however the user pays for the phone call. For more information
contact Doug Walton, System Operator, at (301) 975-6872.

Public Health Foundation's Public Health Network (PHN) users have full access to all GTE Medical
Information Network (MINET) services, and can communicate directly with users in PHN and other
divisions of MINET. Access to Surgeon General, NLM/NIH, CDC, and American Medical Association
information services (e.g., Disease Information, Drug Information, Medical Procedure Coding,
Socioeconomic Bibliography, Expert Medical Physician Information Retrieval and Education Service,
Massachusetts General Hospital (MGH) Continuing Medical Education, and AP Medical News Service) are
available ranging in price from $21 to $39 an hour of connect time.

Subscription fee, payable on a one-time basis is $500.00, each additional user is registered at
$25.00, and a User's Guide costs $15.00. Connect time rates range from $14 an hour peak to $7 an hour
off-peak, character transmission charges are $.05 per 1,000 characters.
For detailed information on PHN or MINET contact:
The Public Health Foundation
1220 L Street, N.W.
Suite 350
Washington, D.C. 20005
(202) 898-5600

Information Consultants, Inc.'s Chemical Information System (ICIS) and Chemical Information System,
Inc.'s (Fein Marquart Associates) System (CIS) are two competing companies which offer approximately
35 databases each, some similar, others different. Databases available for searching include, for
example: Oil and Hazardous Materials Technical Assistance Data System (OHMTADS) with emphasis on
environmental and safety data for spills response; Chemical Evaluation Search and Retrieval (CEASARS)
gives very detailed, evaluated profiles with physical/chemical, toxicological and environmental
information; NIOSH Registry of Toxic Effects of Chemical Substances (RTECS) with acute toxdata, TLV's,
standards, aquatic tox, regulatory information, and NTP test status; Chemical Carcinogensis Research
Information System (CCRIS) giving results of carcinogenicity, mutagenicity, tumor promotion and
carcinogenicity tests under National Cancer Institute contract; GENETOX with genetic assay studies;
AQUIRE with aquatic toxicity information; DERMAL with dermal toxicity information.

Subscriber ($300 per year and $25-85 per hour of connect time) and non- subscriber ($50-115 per hour
connect time) options exist.
For detailed information contact:
CIS, Inc. or Information Consultants, Inc.
Fein Marquart Associates 1133 15th St., N.W.
7215 York Road Washington, D.C. 20005
Baltimore, MD 21212 (202) 822-5200
(800) 247-8737
[] []
[] List of Toll Free Numbers []
[] for amusement []
[] and []
[] for an outlet of frustration []

You may ask "Now why would I want to know some obsolete, unused, utterly useless, toll free numbers"
Well, what you use this information for is up to you, and if you want to use it for some thing like...
well, like, forcing that line to be busy for 2 straight days thus causing the company to lose money,
is completely up to you.
Playgirl Advisor (800) 854-2878 (except CA)
T.V. Guide (800) 523-7933 (except PA)
Ladie's Home Journal (800) 327-8351 (except FA)
Sports Illustrated (800) 621-8200 (except IL)
Book Digest Magazine (800) 228-9700 (except Nebraska)
Money (800) 621-8200 (except IL)
Mail Order
(bowling equip.) (800) 323-1812 (except IL)
Edd the Florist, Inc. (800) 247-1075 (except IA)
Golf Mail Order Co. (800) 327-1760 (except FA)
Inflate-a-bed (800) 835-2246 (except KS)
International Male (800) 854-2795 (except CA)
Porta Yoga (c.c. orders)(800) 327-8912 (except FA)
Unique Products Co. (800) 228-2049 (except Nebraska)
Ski Resorts
HN) Concord (800) 431-2217 (only New England States)
Mt. Snow (800) 451-4211 (Eas orrn Seabord)
Ski Us at Franconia (800) 258-0366 (Eastern Seabord)
Stevensville (800) 431-2211 (New England States)
Dann-Dee (800) 621-3904 (except IL)
Car Rentals
A-Aaron, Inc. (800) 327-7513 (except FA)
Airlines Rent-A/Car (800) 228-9650 (FA only)
Dollar-A-Day (800) 421-6868 (except FA)
Hertz (800) 261-1311 (Canada only)
Sears Rent-A-Car (800) 228-2800 (except Nebraska)
Thrifty Rent-A-Car (800) 331-4200 (except Oklahoma)
Globe Gazette (800) 392-6622 (IA only)
Oil Daily (800) 223-6635 (except NY)
Christian Science Motor (800) 225-7090 (except MS)
Wall Street Journal (800) 257-0300 (except NJ)
The National Observer (800) 325-5990 (except MO)

Have fun. -= Exodus =-

This volume defines a few varieties of misc explosives, charges, and whatever I had in mind at that
time. Anyway, these formulas are not as precise in measurements for they were given in brief summary.
However, they will work, and if used correctly can be safe and "fun".

Type: Low Explosive
Ingredients: 86% Ammonium Nitrate
6% Stearic Acid
8% Aluminum Powder
Description: French ammonal is an easily improvised low explosive
mixture. It is generally less effective than an equal
weight of TNT. The material is loaded by pressing it into
a suitable container. Initiation by an Engineer's special
blasting cap is recommended.
Comments: This material was tested. It is effective.
References: TM 31-201-1, Unconventional Warfare Devices and Techniques,
para 1401.

Type: High Explosive
Ingredients: 75% Tetryl
25% TNT
Description: Tetryol is a high explosive bursting charge. It is used as
a demolition explosive, a bursting charge for mines, and
in artillery shells. The explosive force of tetrytol is
approximately the same as that of TNT. It may be initiated
by a blasting cap. Tetrytol is usually loaded by casting.
Comments: This material was tested. It is effective.
References: TM 9-1900, Ammunition, General, page 55.
TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 188.

Type: High Explosive
Ingredients: Finely Powdered Potassium Chlorate Cdata bstals
Petroleum Jelly **MIX THOUROUGHLY**
Description: This plastic explosive filler can be detonated with a
No. 8 commercial blasting cap or with any military
blasting cap. The explosive must be stored in a waterproof
container until ready to use.
Comments: This material was tested. It is effective.
References: TM 31-210, Improvised Munitions, sec I, No. 1.

Type: Gas Explosive
Ingredients: Explosive Gas
Description: Under some conditions, common gases act as fuel. When mixed
with air, they will burn rapidly or even explode. For some
fuel-air mixtures, the range over which the explosion can
occur is quite wide while for others the limits are narrow.
The upper and lower amounts of common fuels that will cause
an ignitable mixture are shown in the table below. The
quantity shown is the percentage by volume of air. If the
fuel-air mixture is too lean or too rich, it will not
ignite. The amounts shown are therefore called limits of
Gases (% by volume of air)
Fuel (Gas) Lower Limit Upper Limit
------------------------------- ----------- -----------
Water Gas Or Blue Gas 7.0 72
Natural Gas 4.7 15
Hydrogen 4.0 75
Acetylene 2.5 81
Propane 2.2 10
Butane 1.9 9

Comments: These fuels have been tested under labratory conditions.
They are effective. Ignition depends on method of
initiation, uniformity of mixture, and physical conditions.
References: Bulletin 29, Limits of Inflammability of Gases and Vapors
H.F. Coward and G.W. Jones, Bureau of Mines, U.S.
Government Printing Offece, 1939.


More volumes of ANARCHY soon to come.......

This is the MOST important or one of the most important volumes regarding the various mixtures of
anarchy that I will be "publishing" to the "public". Also, it may as well be the MOST DANGEROUS to
prepare, the substance we will be dealing with is Trinitrotoluene, or short - TNT. This high
expolosive is a VERY DANGEROUS, slightly unstable substance. The crystalized crude TNT is about the
color of brown sugar and feels greasy to the touch. It is suitable for many uses as a high-explosive,
but not for the use in high- explosive shells. It is also highly reactive to many other chemical
substances. It can be incorporated into dynamite and many other explosives that will be explained in
further detail later, in other volumes of ANARCHY.



Preparation of Trinitrotoluene (Three Stages). A mixture of 294 grams of concentrated sulfuric acid
(density 1.84) and 147 grams of nitric acid (density 1.42) is added slowly from a dropping funnel to
100 grams of toluene in a tall 600-cc. beaker, while the liquid is stirred vigorously with an electric
stirrer and it's temperature is maintained at 30 to 40 degrees celsius by running cold water in the
vessel in which the beaker is standing. The addition of acid will require from an hour to an hour and
a half. The stirring is then continued for half an hour longer without cooling; the mixture is allowed
to stand over night in a separatory funnel; the lower layer of spent acid is drawn off; and the crude
mononitrotoluene is weighed. One-half of it, corresponding to 50 grams of toluene, is taken for the

The mononitrotoluene (MNT) is dissolved in 109 grams of concentrated sulfuric acid (d. 1.84) while the
mixture is cooled in running water. The solution in a tall beaker is warmed to 50 degrees and a mixed
acid, composed of 54.5 grams each of nitric acid (d. 1.50) and sulfuric acid (d. 1.84), is added
slowly drop by drop from a dropping funnel while the mixture is stirred mechanically. The heat
generated by the reaction raises the temperature, and the rate of addition of the acid is regulated so
that the temperature of the mixture lies always between 90 degrees and 100 degrees. The addition of
the acid will require about 1 hour.

After the acid has been added, the mixture is stirred for 2 hours longer at 90-100 degrees to complete
the nitration. Two layers seperate on standing. The upper layer consists largely of dinitrotoluene
(DNT), but probobly contains a certain amount of TNT. The trinitration in the laboratory is
converniently carried out without separating the DNT from the spent acid.

While the dinitration mixture is stirred actively at a temperature of about 90 degrees, 145 grams of
fuming sulfuric aced (oleum containing 15% free SO3) is added slowly by pouring from a beaker. A mixed
acid, composed of 72.5 grams each of nitric acid (d. 1.50) and the 15% oleum, is now added drop by
drop with good agitation while the heat of the reaction maintains the temperature at 100-115 degrees.
After about three-quarters of the acid has been added, it will be found necessary to apply external
heat to maintain the temperature.

After all the acid has been added (taking 1 1/2 to 2 hours), the heating and stirring are continued
for 2 hours longer at 100-115 degrees. After the material has stood overnight, the upper TNT layer
will be found to have solidified to a hard cake, and the lower layer of spent acid to be filled with
cdata bstals. The acid is filtered through a Buchner funnel (without filter paper), and the cake is
broken up and washed with water on the same filter to remove excess of acid. The spent acid contains
considerable amounts of TNT in solution; this is precipitated by pouring the acid into a large volume
of water, filtered off, rinsed with water, and added to the main batch. All the of the product is
washed three or four times by agitating it vigorously with hot water under which it is melted. After
the last washing, the TNT is granulated by allowing it to cool slowly under hot water while the
stirring is continued.

The product, filtered off and dried at ordinary room temperature, is equal to a good commercial sample
of crude TNT. It may be purified by dissolving in warm alcohol at 60 degrees and allowing to cool
slowly, or it may be purified by digesting with 5 times its weight of 5% sodium hydrogen sulfite
solution at 90 degrees for half an hour with vigorous stirring, washing with hot water until the
washings are colorless, and finally granulating as before. The product of this last treatment is equal
to a good commercial sample of purified TNT. Pure ALPHA-TNT, melting point 80.8 degrees, may be
procured by recrystallizing this material once from nitric acid (d. 1.42) and once from alcohol.

Well, that's it... AND REMEMBER MY WARNING!

future editions of ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES comming soon..... (whenever I have time to type them up!)

by Doctor Dissector of course!

In this particular volume, we will be discussing types of Dynamite, these high-explosives being one of
the more important or destructive of the anarchist's formulas. Note that some of these mixtures are
very unstable or shock ignited, and that care should be observed when handling these unstable
mixtures. Some of these formulae deal with Trinitrotoluene (TNT) and the preparation for that is given
under the volume 3, within this series.



Guhr Dynamite:

* 1 part Kieselguhr
* 3 parts Nitroglycerin


This dynamite is primarily used in blasting. It is fairly stable, in the drop test, it exploded by the
fall of a 1 kg weight through 12 to 15 cm., or by the fall of a 2 kg weight through 7 cm. The frozen
material is less sensitive: a drop of more than 20 cm. with a 1 kg weight is needed to explode it, and
the 2 kg weight is necessary to explode it. Frozen or unfrozen, it can be detonated by shooting at it
with a military rifle, when held in a paper cartridge. Generally, it is detonated with a
steel-on-steel blow. Velicity of detonation vary from 6650 to 6800 meters per second at a density
loading of 1.50.

Ingredients- FORMULA 1 FORMULA 2
71% Nitroglycerin 62% Ammonium Nitrate
23% Amonium Nitrate 25% Nitroglycerin
4% Collodion 12% Charcoal
2% Charcoal 1% Collodion


This material is crumbly and plastic between the fingers. This material can be detonated with any
detonating cap.
Table Of Dynamite Formulae:
15% 20% 25% 30% 35% 40% 45% 50% 55% 60%
Nitroglycerin.......... 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60
Combustible Material... 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 14 15 16
Sodium Nitrate......... 64 60 56 52 48 44 40 35 29 23
Calcium or Magnesium
Carbonate........... 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

Table Of More Dynamite Formulae:
30% 35% 40% 50% 60% 30% 35% 40% 50% 60%
Nitroglycerin.......... 15 20 22 27 35 13 17 17 21 27
Compounds.......... 0 0 0 0 0 3 4 4 5 6
Ammonium Nitrate....... 15 15 20 25 30 15 15 20 25 30
Sodium Nitrate......... 51 48 42 36 24 53 49 45 36 27
Combustible Material... 18 16 15 11 10 15 14 13 12 9
Calcium Carbonate or
Zinc Oxide......... 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

Master Table Of Dynamites:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Ammonium Nitrate.......... 52 53 60 61 66 73 78 83 0 0 0 0
Potassium Nitrate......... 21 0 0 0 0 2.8 5 7 30.5 34 0 0
Sodium Nitrate............ 0 12 5 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 30.5 24.5
Barium Nitrate............ 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 4 1 0 0
Na or K Chloride.......... 0 0 21 20.5 22 15 8 0 0 0 0 0
Hydrated Ammonium Oxalate. 16 19 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Ammonium Chloride......... 6 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Cereal or Wood Meal....... 0 4 4 7.5 2 1 5 2 0 38.5 39.5 40.5
Glycerin.................. 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Spent Tan Bark Meal....... 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 40 1 0 0
Potassium Dichromate...... 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 5 5
Sodium Carbonate.......... 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .5 .5 0 0
Powdered Coal............. 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Nitrotoluene.............. 0 0 6 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Dinitrotoluene............ 0 0 0 0 0 5 0 0 0 0 0 0
Trinitrotoluene........... 0 6 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0
Nitroglycerin............. 5 5 4 4 4 3.2 4 4 25 25 25 30

Well, that's it for now... have fun.... hehehehehe!


till later.... (future magazines comming soon!)

Well, hasn't it been long since Volume 4 of Anarchy 'n' Explosives? Well, I finally got around to
typing up another volume. This one will be dedicated to the extremely simple and more accessible
explosives and incendiaries to be prepared at home, or laboratory; depending upon the environment you
have access to or are accustomed to.

Anyway, getting back down to business, I must (again), put up this sign:


Enough of the warnings and notes; for further information and/or comments on this series of ever
popular explosives, contact me (I don't sign these "publications") on the Knavery BBS at xxx-xxx-xxxx
on the public message base, I should be reading some requests if you leave them. And, volume number 6
should be coming out sooner than the time between 4 and 5, but don't count on it.


Bulk powders are types of gunpowders consisting of nitrocellulose and a mixture of other chemically
explosive solutions. These nitrocellulose fibers are stuck together, but are not completely collided.
Some contain little else but nitrocellulose; others contain, in addition to potassium and barium
nitrates, camphor, vaseline, paraffin, lampblack, starch, dextrine, potassium dichromate or other
oxidizing or deterrent salts, and diphenylamine for stabilization, and are colored in a variety of
brilliant hues by means of col- tar dyes. Three typical bulk powders are made up according to the
approximate formulas tabulated below:
Nitrocellulose........................ 84.0 87.0 89.0
% N in nitrocellulose............... 13.2 12.9 12.9
Potassium nitrate..................... 7.5 6.0 6.0
Barium nitrate........................ 7.5 2.0 3.0
Starch................................ -.- -.- 1.0
Paraffin oil.......................... -.- 4.0 -.-
Diphenylamine......................... 1.0 1.0 1.0

The mixture is mixed in warm water and dried thoroughly. Then either granulated or made into powder by
crushing with a wooden block and screened through a 12-mesh sieve. The material is then stored in a
moisture-resistant container for future or immediate use.


Mercury fulminate is an initiating explosive, commonly appearing as white or gray crystals. It is
extremely sensitive to initiation by heat, friction, spark or flame, and impact. It detonates when
initiated by any of these means. It is pressed into containers, usually at 3000 psi, for use in
detonators and blasting caps. However, when compressed at greater and greater pressure (up to 30,000
psi), it becomes "dead pressed." In this condition, it can only be detonated by another initial
detonating agent. Mercury fulminate gradually becomes inert when stored continuously above 100 degrees
F. A dark- colored product of deterioration gives evidence of this effect. Mercury exfulminate is
stored underwater except when there is danger of freezing. Then it is stored under a mixture of water
and alcohol.

Preparation of Mercury Fulminate. Five grams of mercury is addedExt55 cc. of nitric acid (specific
gravity 1.42) in a 100-cc. Erlenmeyer flask, and the mixture is allowed to stand without shaking until
the mercury has gone into solution. The acid liquid is then poured into 50 cc. of 90% alcohol in a
500-cc. beaker in the hood. The temperature of the mixture rises, a vigorous reaction commences, white
fumes come off, and cdata bstals of fulminate soon begin to precipitate. Red fumes appear and the
precipitation of the fulminate becomes more rapid, then white fumes again as the reaction moderates.
After about 20 minutes, the reaction is over; water is added, and the cdata bstals are washed with
water repeatedly by decantation until the washings are no longer acid to litmus. The product consists
of grayish-yellow cdata bstals, and corresponds to a good grade of commercial fulminate. It may be
obtained white and entirely pure by dissolving in strong ammonia water, filtering, and reprecipitating
by the addition of 30% acetic acid. The pure fulminate is filtered off, washed several times with cold
water, and stored under water, or, if a very small amount is desired for experimental purposes, it is
dried in a desiccator.

AMATOL: Description: amatol is a high explosive, whit to buff in color. It is a mixture of ammonium
nitrate and TNT, with a relative effectiveness slightly higher than that of TNT alone. Common
compositions vary from 80% ammonium nitrate and 20% TNT to 40% ammonium nitrate and 60% TNT. Amatol is
used as the main bursting charge in artillery shells and bombs. Amatol absorbs moisture and can form
dangerous compounds with copper and brass. Therefore, it should not be housed in containers of such


Black powders burn either quickly or very slowly depending on the composition of such a mixture;
however, these powders produce smoke, often great amounts, and is most useful in applications where
smoke is no object. It is the best for communicating fire and for producing a quick, hot flame. Black
powder is used in both propellant charges for shrapnel shells, in saluting and blank fire charges, as
the bursting charge of practice shells and bombs, as a propelling charge in certain pyrotechnic
pieces, and, either with or without the admixture of other substances which modify the rate of
burning, in the time-train rings and in other parts of fuses. Below is a list of black powders and
their compositions.
Name Saltpeter Charcoal Sulfur
England........................ 79 (18) 3
England........................ 77.4 (17.6) 5
Germany........................ 78 (19) 3
Germany........................ 80 (20) -
France......................... 78 (19) 3
Forte.......................... 72 15 13 | Blasting
Lente.......................... 40 30 30 |- Black
Ordinaire...................... 62 18 20 | Powders
FBI raids major Ohio computer bulletin board

The Federation Bureau of Investigation on Saturday, Jan. 30, 1993, raided "Rusty & Edie's," a computer
bulletin board located in Boardman, Ohio, which has allegedly been illegally distributing copyrighted
software programs. Seized in the raid on the Rusty & Edie's bulletin board were computers, hard disk
drives and telecommunications equipment, as well as financial and subscriber records. For the past
several months, the Software Publishers Association ("SPA") has been working with the FBI in
investigating the Rusty & Edie's bulletin board, and as part of that investigation has downloaded
numerous copyrighted business and entertainment programs from the board.

The SPA investigation was initiated following the receipt of complaints from a number of SPA members
that their software was being illegally distributed on the Rusty & Edie's BBS. The Rusty & Edie's
bulletin board was one of the largest private bulletin boards in the country. It had 124 nodes
available to callers and over 14,000 subscribers throughout the United States and several foreign
countries. To date, the board has logged in excess of 3.4 million phone calls, with new calls coming
in at the rate of over 4,000 per day. It was established in 1987 and had expanded to include over 19
gigabytes of storage housing over 100,000 files available to subscribers for downloading. It had paid
subscribers throughout the United States and several foreign countries, including Canada, Luxembourg,
France, Germany, Finland, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden and the United Kingdom.

A computer bulletin board allows personal computer users to access a host computer by a modem-equipped
telephone to exchange information, including messages, files, and computer programs. The systems
operator (Sysop) is generally responsible for the operation of the bulletin board and determines who
is allowed to access the bulletin board and under what conditions. For a fee of $89.00 per year,
subscribers to the Rusty & Edie's bulletin board were given access to the board's contents including
many popular copyrighted business and entertainment packages. Subscribers could "download" or receive
these files for use on their own computers without having to pay the copyrighted owner anything for

"The SPA applauds the FBI's action today," said Ilene Rosenthal, general counsel for the SPA. "This
shows that the FBI recognizes the harm that theft of intellectual property causes to one of the U.S.'s
most vibrant industries. It clearly demonstrates a trend that the government understands the
seriousness of software piracy." The SPA is actively working with the FBI in the investigation of
computer bulletin boards, and similar raids on other boards are expected shortly. Whether it's copied
from a program purchased at a neighborhood computer store or downloaded from a bulletin board
thousands of miles away, pirated software adds to the cost of computing. According to the SPA, in
1991, the software industry lost $1.2 billion in the U.S. alone. Losses internationally are several
billion dollars more.

"Many people may not realize that software pirates cause prices to be higher, in part, to make up for
publisher losses from piracy," says Ken Wasch, executive director of the SPA. In addition, they ruin
the reputation of the hundreds of legitimate bulletin boards that serve an important function for
computer users." The Software Publishers Association is the principal trade association of the
personal computer software industry. It's over 1,000 members represent the leading publishers in the
business, consumer and education software markets. The SPA has offices in Washington DC, and Paris,
CONTACT: Software Publishers Association, Washington
Ilene Rosenthal, 202/452-1600 Ext. 318
Terri Childs, 202/452-1600 Ext. 320

Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and one or more pharmacies. These are two
of the places that potential terrorists visit in order to purchase explosive material. All that one
has to do is know something about the non- explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example,
is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each different grade being a
slightly different size. The grade of black powder depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is
used in; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the
smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.


Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the smaller the grade, the
faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid
increase of gas volume in a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is
desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width
(calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable.
However, the other grades and uses are listed below:

F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles
FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles
FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers

The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more surface area or burning
surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades also have uses which will be discussed later.
The price range of black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the
grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of powder.

The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited accidentally by static electricity,
and that it has a tendency to absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a one would use a
plastic spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply pressure
to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is
fine enough to use when it is about as fine as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type
of device one wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1
foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Any adult can purchase black powder, since anyone can own black powder
firearms in the United States.


Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes in the same grades, but it is
more expensive per pound. However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains more material by volume
than a pound of black powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and
it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not be set off by static
electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per
pound. It can be crushed in the same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water
and dried.


One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is the largest producer of model
rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain
is surrounded by a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube length-
wise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the gray fire clay at either end
of the propellant grain must be removed. This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife.
The material is exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain in the
widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, the powder will
not break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then
it should be crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T
to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come in
packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful
item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their
explosive powder.


Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle standpoint. They are both
nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be referred to as gunpowder in all future references.
Smokeless gunpowder is made by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton or some
other cellulose material. This material is then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired
grain size. When dealing with smokeless gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that
of black powder. Both large and small grained smokeless powder burn fairly slowly compared to black
powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and with more gaseous
expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other
propellants is not necessary for smokeless powder. owder costs about $9.00 per pound. In most states
any citizen with a valid driver's license can buy it, since there are currently few restrictions on
rifles or shotguns in the U.S. There are now ID checks in many states when purchasing powder at a
retail outlet. Mail-orders aren't subject to such checks. Rifle powder and pyrodex may be purchased by
mail order, but UPS charges will be high, due to DOT regulations on packaging.

-= Exodus =-

If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most effective lockpick is
dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are unfortunately, problems with noise and excess
structural damage with these methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of professional

These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is
not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the latch, one can
open the door. There are several devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall.
Dental tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket knives, and
credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these tools and devices are uses is similar:
pull, push, or otherwise move the latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open.
This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing the latch back
into the door.

Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door closed while the second
(smaller) finger only prevents the first finger from being pressed in when it (the second finger) is
pressed in by the catchplate of the door. If you can separate the catch plate and the lock
sufficiently far, the second finger will slip out enough to permit the first finger to be slipped.
(Ill. 2.11) ___
| } <
Small -> (| } <--- The large (first) finger
second |___} <

Some methods for getting through locked doors are:
1. Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the frame around the door out
of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to the above methods. This is possible because most
door frames are designed with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position
horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the latch, and jack it out. If the frame is wood
it may be possible to remove the jack after shutting the door, which will relock the door and
leave few signs of forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete block buildings, and
it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards.
2. use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart. While holding them apart, try to slip the
lock. Screwdrivers, while not entirely innocent, are much more subtle than auto jacks, and much
faster if they work. If you're into unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would work too, but then why
bother to slip the lock at all?
3. Find a set of double doors. They are particularly easy to pry apart far enough to slip.
4. If the lock is occasionally accessible to you while open, "adjust" or replace the catchplate to
make it operate more suitably (i.e., work so that it lets *both* fingers out, so that it can
always be slipped). If you want, disassembling the lock and removing some of the pins can make it
much easier to pick.
5. If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door opens outward), remove the
hinge pins (provided they aren't stopped with welded tabs). Unfortunately, this too lacks
subtlety, in spite of its effectiveness.
6. If the door cannot be slipped and you will want to get through regularly, break the mechanism. Use
of sufficient force to make the first finger retreat while the second finger is retreated will
break some locks (e.g., Best locks) in such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially,
yet otherwise work in all normal ways. Use of a hammer and/or screwdriver is recommended. Some
care should be used not to damage the door jamb when attempting this on closed and locked doors,
so as not to attract the attention of the users/owners/locksmith/police/....
7. Look around in desks. People very often leave keys to sensitive things in them or other obvious
places. Especially keys to shared critical resources, like supply rooms, that are typically
key-limited but that everyone needs access to. Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a
tracing (lay key under paper and scribble on top), or be dull and make a wax impression. Get
blanks for the key type (can be very difficult for better locks; I won't go into methods, other
than to say that if you can get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work wonders
with a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key. Using a micrometer works best: keys
made from mic measurements are more likely to work consistently than keys made by any other
method. If you us tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that works
reliably. Also, if you can 'borrow' the cylinder and disassemble it, pin levels can be obtained
and keys constructed.
8. Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily. Many desks have simple three or four pin
locks of only a few levels, and can be consistently picked by a patient person in a few minutes. A
small screwdriver and a paper clip will work wonders in practiced hands. Apply a slight torque to
the lock in the direction of opening with the screwdriver. Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded
paper clip. With practice, you'll apply enough pressure with the screwdriver that the pins will
align properly (they'll catch on the cylinder somewhere between the top and bottom of their normal
travel), and once they're all lined up, additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open the
lock. This, in conjunction with (7) can be very effective. This works better with older or
sloppily machined locks that have a fair amount of play in the cylinder. Even older quality locks
can be picked in this manner, if their cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to
allow pins to catch reliably. Even with a well worn quality lock, though, it generally takes a
*lot* of patience.
9. Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take breaks. Make the most of your
10. No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there. Nothing makes anyone more suspicious than
someone skulking about, obviously trying to look inconspicuous. If there are several of you, have
some innocuous and normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy! What time is it?") so that they can
get anything suspicious put away. Don't travel in large groups at 3 AM. Remember, more than one
car thief has managed to enlist a cop's aid in breaking into a car. Remember this. Security people
usually *like* to help people. Don't make them suspicious or annoy them. If you do run into
security people, try to make sure that there won't be any theft or break-ins reported there the
next day...
11. Consider the possibilities of master keys. Often, every lock in a building or department will have
a common master (building entrance keys are a common exception). Take apart some locks from
different places that should have common masters, measure the different pin lengths in each, and
find lengths in common. Experiment. Then get into those places you're *really* curious about.
12. Control keys are fun, too. These keys allow the user to remove the lock's core, and are generally
masters. (A pair of needle nose pliers or similar tool can then be used to open the lock, if


The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper. It is quite flexible, so it can
be worked into jambs easily, and can be pre-bent as needed. In the plane of the sheet, however, it is
fairly strong, and pulls nicely. Of course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student IDs,
etc., work just fine on locks that have been made slippable if the door jamb is wide enough.
Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully effective. Don't leave home without one.

The sheet should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that looks like this:
(Ill. #1)
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |

(Ill. #2)
/ ___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |________

(Ill. #3)
/ ___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |____________________

We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities have very strict policies about
unauthorized possession of keys. At most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing
criminal charges. Don't get caught with keys!!! The homemade ones are particularly obvious, as they
don't have the usual stamps and marks that the locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.]

we should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are various nasty things that
can be done to catch you and/or slow you down. For instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in,
locks can be made to trap any key used to open them. If you lose one this way, what can I say? At
least don't leave fingerprints on it. Or make sure they're someone else's. Too much mischief can also
tempt the powers that be to rekey.

-= Exodus =-

Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and drug stores to get the materials
to make explosives or other dangerous compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station
wagon and some money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.
Chemical Used In Available at
________ _______ ____________

alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores
solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores

ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven

ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores,
nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores

nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores
poppers (like CO2 ctgs.) Head shops (The Alley at
Belmont/Clark, Chgo)

magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores

lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores

mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores

mercury mercury thermometers supermarkets,
hardware stores

sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores

glycerine pharmacies/drug stores

sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store

charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets
gardening stores

sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store

cellulose (cotton) first aid drug
medical supply stores

strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores,

fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores,

bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores,

potassium permanganate water purification purification plants

hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores
methenamine (camping)

nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops
plates photography stores

Iodine disinfectant (tinture) Pharmacy, OSCO

sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores
(VERY impure) for cutting torches

^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen by bomb makers, or made by the
process described in a later section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.

& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form that is desired for producing
ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's
prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to.
-= Exodus =- '94


I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not guncotton grade, because I didn't have oleum (H2SO4
with dissolved SO3); nevertheless it worked. At first I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown
Philadelphia, which sold soda-acid fire extinguisher refills. Not only was the acid concentrated,
cheap and plentiful, it came with enough carbonate to clean up. I'd add KNO3 and a little water (OK,
I'd add the acid to the water - but there was so little water, what was added to what made little
difference. It spattered concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could purchase the acids, I
believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I'd use cotton wool or cotton cloth.

Runaway nitration was commonplace, but it is usually not so disasterous with nitrocellulose as it is
with nitroglycerine. For some reason, I tried washing the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and
rinsing it well in distilled water. I let the cloth dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this
somewhere?) When that product was nitrated, I never got a runaway reaction. BTW, water quenched the
runaway reaction of cellulose.

The product was washed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned into mush) in acetone.
It dissolved in alcohol/ether.


All usual warnings regarding strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When it falls on the skin, it
destroys tissue - often painfully. It dissolves all manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin,
turning it bright yellow in the process. Nitric is an oxidant - it can start fires. Both agents will
happily blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings also apply. Not for the novice.

Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage if it isn't stablized. The decomposition is auto-
catalyzing, and can result in spontaneous explosion if the material is kept confined over time. The
process is much faster if the material is not washed well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain
stabilizers such as diphenyl amine or ethyl centralite. DO NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH
NITRIC ACID!!!! A small amount of either substance will capture the small amounts of nitrogen oxides
that result from decomposition. They therefore inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose
in any case.

Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas. I got away with it. You may kill
yourself and others if you try it.

Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by:
1. Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is recycled.
2. Immersion in a large quantity of fresh water.
3. Boiling it in acidulated water and washing it thoroughly with fresh water.

If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution, then rinsed in fresh

The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the nitration will be, and the more
powerful the nitrocellulose produced.

There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is useful for pyrotechnic
purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration.
If nitration is allowed to proceed to complete the explosive trinatrate is formed.
(Ill. 3.22.2)

| 2 | 2 2
| |
C-----O HNO C-----O
/H \ 3 /H \
-CH CH-O- --> -CH CH-O-
\H H/ H SO \H H/
C-----C 2 4 C-----C
| | | |
2 2


Ahh, fer the NEW Cookbook....

-= Exodus =- '94
FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES -- (AKA: Starter Explosives)

There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be produced by a misguided
individual in his own home. Some are very effective and dangerous, while others are safer and less
effective. A list of working fuel- oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of
each compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be given of the
percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:
oxodizer, % by weight | fuel, % by weight | speed # | notes
potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact
sensitive; unstable

potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning;
charcoal 15% unstable

potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely
magnesium or unstable!
aluminum dust 25%

potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable
aluminum dust 33%

sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable
sulfur 5% burn rate

potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before
ignition depends

potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable

potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%

potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ?

potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is
sulfur 10% black powder!

potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot
or magnesium 40%

potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike-
sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches

ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for
and small amount of space shuttle
iron oxide

potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%

potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder
sulfur 20%

barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder

barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate
aluminum dust 5% flash powder

potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly
magnesium or unstable
aluminum dust 25%

potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable
calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive

potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable;
aluminum or ignites if
magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!

potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable
sulfur 10%

NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium perchlorate become
moisture-absorbent and less stable.

The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns AFTER ignition. Also, as a
rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of burning.

As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be made at home. By
altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can
change the sensitivity of the mixture.


Here are a few basic precautions to take if you're crazy enough to produce your own flash powder:
1. Grind the oxidizer (KNO3, KClO3, KMnO4, KClO4 etc) separately in a clean vessel.
2. NEVER grind or sift the mixed composition.
3. Mix the composition on a large paper sheet, by rolling the composition back and forth.
4. Do not store flash compositions, especially any containing Mg.
5. Make very small quantities at first, so you can appreciate the power of such mixtures.

KNO3 50% (by weight)
Mg 50%

It is very important to have the KNO3 very dry, if evolution of ammonia is observed then the KNO3 has
water in it. Very pure and dry KNO3 is needed.

KClO3 with Mg or Al metal powders works very well. Many hands, faces and lives have been lost with
such compositions.

KMnO4 with Mg or Al is also an extremely powerful flash composition.

KClO4 with Al is generally found in comercial fireworks, this does not mean that it is safe, it is a
little safer than KClO3 above.

K2Cr2O7 can also be used as an oxidizer for flash powder.

The finer the oxidizer and the finer the metal powder the more powerful the explosive. This of course
will also increase the sensetivity of the flash powder.

For a quick flash small quantities can be burnt in the open. Larger quantities (50g or more) ignited
in the open can detonate, they do not need a container to do so.

NOTE: Flash powder in any container will detonate.

Balanced equations of some oxidizer/metal reactions. Only major products are considered. Excess metal
powders are generally used. This excess burns with atmospheric oxygen.

4 KNO3 + 10 Mg --> 2 K2O + 2 N2 + 10 MgO + energy

KClO3 + 2 Al --> KCl + Al2O3 + energy

3 KClO4 + 8 Al --> 3 KCl + 4 Al2O3 + energy

6 KMnO4 + 14 Al --> 3 K2O + 7 Al2O3 + 6 Mn + energy

Make Black Powder first if you have never worked with pyrotechnic materials, then think about this

Dr. Van Tiel- Ph.D. Chemistry

Potassium perchlorate is a lot safer than sodium/potassium chlorate.

Compiled By: -= Exodus =- '94
The Firey Explosive Pen Written by Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us

Here's a GREAT little trick to play on your best fiend (no thats not a typo) at skool, or maybe as a
practial joke on a friend!

Materials Needed
* One Ball Point `Click` pen
* Gun Powder
* 8 or 10 match heads
* 1 Match stick
* a sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2")

1. Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top.
2. Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the other little parts and the ink fill
3. Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker.
4. Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on the inside on the sand
5. Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where the ball point comes
6. Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is to keep the powder from

The Finished pen should look like this:
Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \
| |
\ | |
\ _________________|____________________|________

-= Exodus=- makin' more for '94

First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not to tear or rip the
piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded over at least once, if this does not rip the
pipe. A fuse hole should be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be

Next, the bomb- builder would partially fill the casing with a low order explosive, and pack it with a
large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair of
pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the process of folding and bending
metal gives off heat, which could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below:
(Ill. #1)
³ ³ o ³ ³

fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view)

(Ill. #2)
³ ³ ³
³ o ³ ³

fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)

(Ill. #3)
³ À¿ ÀÄÄ¿ ³
³ ÚÙ

fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)

(Revised ill. 4.14)
SAFETY TIPS -- HOW NOT TO GET KILLED (Ways to avoid scoring an "Own Goal")

An "own goal" is the death of a person on your side from one of your own devices. It is obvious that
these should be avoided at all costs. While no safety device is 100% reliable, it is usually better to
err on the side of caution.

* DON'T SMOKE! (don't laugh- an errant cigarette wiped out the Weathermen)
* GRIND ALL INGREDIENTS SEPERATELY. It's suprising how friction sensitive some supposedly "safe"
explosives really are.
* ALLOW for a 20% margin of error- Just because the AVERAGE burning rate of a fuse is 30 secs/foot,
don't depend on the 5 inches sticking out of your pipe bomb to take exactly 2.5 minutes.
* OVERESTIMATE THE RANGE OF YOUR SHRAPNEL. The cap from a pipe bomb can oftentravel a block or more
at high velocities before coming to rest- If you have to stay nearby, remember that if you can see
it, it can kill you.
* When mixing sensitive compounds (such as flash powder) avoid all sources of static electricity.
Mix the ingredients by the method below:


The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to do as the small-scale fireworks
manufacturer's do:


1 large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a newspaper that does not use staples)

The dry chemicals needed for the desired compound.
* Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour them in two small heaps near
opposite corners of the sheet.
* Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the powders, allowing the powders to roll towards the
middle of the sheet.
* By raising one corner and then the other, roll the powders back and forth in the middle of the
open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture spill from either of the loose ends.
* Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use immediately. If it must be stored use
airtight containers (35mm film canisters work nicely) and store away from people, houses, and
valuable items.

-= Exodus =-

Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals that decompose under the
slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium
hydroxide) and iodine. Such crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant
walks across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps and abrasive
agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or heated. Ammonia, when bought in
stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear
ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard,
and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface
that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is
thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive.

It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also
bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things there also.
Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless they are
immediately and vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious
terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of
them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten
almost anyone, since a small crystal that may not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud

Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner:
Materials Equipment

iodine crystals funnel and filter paper
paper towels
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)
1. Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars must both be throw away
because they will never be clean again.
2. Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3. Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel. The technique for
putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular
paper in half, so that a semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle
with one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone into the
4. After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the solution into the paper in
the funnel through the filter paper.
5. While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar to wash any remaining
crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.
6. Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, and place them on the
paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that they are not too close to any lights or
other sources of heat, as they could well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet
material into eight pieces of about the same size.
7. After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of duct tape. Cover it with
a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape together around the crystal, making sure not to
press the crystal itself. Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors,
and store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of about a week, and they
should be stored in individual containers that can be thrown away, since they have a tendency to
slowly decompose, a process which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle
on. One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use
them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where they will be stepped on or

-= Exodus =-

Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or industrial plant. However, it is
readily available in an uncharged car battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply
remove the top of a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be
pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, either by boiling or
filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it; very pure
sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean motor oil.


Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. It could be made very easily
by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia
into the flask and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped
reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water and any
unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine powder formed, which would be
ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water
from the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive
off the remaining water.

First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first used in weapons and explosives
in the 12th century. It is very simple to make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of
black powder is converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine burned
particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by static electricity. This is very
bad, and it means that the material must be made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided
individual could manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:

potassium clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder

or or

sodium wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon

sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)

charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)

distilled water coffee pot or heat source
1. Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl and grind it to a
very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder
in one of the plastic bags.
2. Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a separate plastic bag.
3. Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and add just enough
boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
4. Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium nitrate, and mix them
well for several minutes. Do this until there is no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the
mixture is universally black.
5. On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight is really the best
way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6. Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. Plastic is really the
safest container, followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags
are prone to generate static electricity.

Another addition to the CookBook...... -= Exodus =- '94

Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more stable than black powder, and
it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster than black powder when it is
in a confined space. Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following

cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers

concentrated funnel and filter paper
nitric acid
blue litmus paper
sulfuric acid

distilled water
1. Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 cc of concentrated nitric
2. Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 minutes.
3. Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to wash it in.
4. Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5. After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to be dried and stored.
R.D.X. 2

R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with plasticisers) is one of the most
valuable of all military explosives. This is because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and
is much easier to detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too severe
shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, but it is still too sensitive
to be used alone.
/ \
/ 2 2
/ |
2 \ / 2
\ /
\ /

R.D.X. can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in
the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium nitrate.

hexamine 500 ml beaker
methenamine glass stirring rod
fuel tablets (50 g)
funnel and filter paper
nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container (plastic bucket)

distilled water centigrade thermometer

table salt blue litmus paper

ice ammonium nitrate
1. Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully pour 550 ml of
concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2. When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of the crushed fuel
tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade,
or dire consequences could result. Stir the mixture.
3. Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice and salt to the old
ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath,
since it becomes cold when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the
temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes
4. Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, and allow it to melt.
Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5. Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter the crystals, and test
them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This
will make the crystals more stable and safe.
6. Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely using them. R.D.X. is not
stable enough to use alone as an explosive.
7. Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6%
lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic bag. This is one way to desensitize the
8. H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. it is not as sensitive,
and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.
9. By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should be possible to
desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and
powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to
stabilize the R.D.X.
10. R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a density of 1.55
g/cubic cm.

-= Exodus =-

ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO solves the only other major
problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the
explosive failing to detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by
weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate from
absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large shockwave to set it off.

About ANFO (From Dean S.)

Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures. These are mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate
with Fuel Oil. This forms a reasonably powerful commercial explosive, with its primary benifit being
the fact that it is cheap. Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is dirt
cheap compared to 40% nitro gel dynamites at 1 to 2 dollars the pound. To keep the cost down, it is
frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk truck, which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills
(thats pellets to most of the world) and a tank of fuel oil. It is strongly recommended that a dye of
some sort, preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier to distinguish treated AN
explosive from untreated oxidizer.

ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that sensitive to detonation. Number eight
caps are not reliable when used with ANFO. Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes.
Common boosters include sticks of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives, dupont's
detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power primer cast explosive. The need to use boosters raises the
cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water susceptable. It dissolves in it, or absorbes it from the
atmosphere, and becomes quite worthless real quick. It must be protected from water with borehole
liners, and still must be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low density, somewhere around .85. This
means ANFO sacks float, which is no good, and additionally, the low density means the power is
somewhat low. Generally, the more weight of explosive one can place in a hole, the more effective.
ANFO blown into the hole with a pneumatic system fractures as it is places, raising the density to
about .9 or .92. The delivery system adds to the cost, and must be anti static in nature. Aluminum is
added to some commercial, cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise the density---this also raises power
considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliablly cap sensitive.

Now than, for formulations. An earlier article mentioned 2.5 kilos of ammonium nitrate, and I believe
5 to 6 liters of diesel. This mixture is extremely over fueled, and I'd be surprised if it worked.
Dupont recommends a AN to FO ratio of 93% AN to 7% FO by weight. Hardly any oil at all. More oil makes
the mixture less explosive by absorbing detonation energy, and excess fuel makes detonation byproducts
health hazzards as the mixture is oxygen poor. Note that commercial fertilizer products do not work as
well as the porous AN prills dupont sells, because fertilizers are coated with various materials meant
to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from being absorbed.

Another problem with ANFO: for reliable detonation, it needs confinement, either from a casing,
borehole, etc, or from the mass of the charge. Thus, a pile of the stuff with a booster in it is
likely to scatter and burn rather than explode when the booster is shot. In boreholes, or reasonable
strong casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic film sacks) the stuff detonated quite well. So will big
piles. Thats how the explosive potential was discovered: a small oil freighter rammed a bulk chemical
ship. Over several hours the cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass. Real big
bang. A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel oil with a wax fuel. Mix
the AN with just enough melted wax to form a cohesive mixture, mold into shape. The wax fuels, and
retains the mixture. This is what the US military uses as a man placed cratering charge. The military
literature states this can be set off by a blasting cap, but it is important to remember the military
blasting caps are considerable more powerful than commercial ones. The military rightly insists on
reliability, and thus a strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than commercial). They also tend to
go overboard when calculating demolition charges...., but then hey, who doesn't....

Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual mainly useful for rock and
seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or "Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title,
its in the office). This is a $60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus
demolitions, and non-quarry blasting.

Incidently, combining fuel oil and ammonium nitrate constitutes the manufacture of a high explosive,
and requires a federal permit to manufacture and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the
permit to manufacture. Those who don't manufacture only need permits to store. Those who don't store
need no permits, which includes most of us: anyone, at least in the US may purchase explosives,
provided they are 21 or older, and have no criminal record. Note they ought to be used immediately,
because you do need a liscence to store. Note also that commercial explosives contain quantities of
tracing agents, which make it real easy for the FBI to trace the explosion to the purchaser, so
please, nobody blow up any banks, orphanages, or old folks homes, okay.

D. S.- Civil Engineer at large.

Brought to you in the CookBook IV.. -= Exodus =-
PICRIC ACID Brought to you by: -= Exodus =-

Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military explosive that is most often
used as a booster charge to set off another less sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another
explosive that is fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and
nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab manuals, and is
easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and
unstable picrate salts, such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer
form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably use a formula
similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.

phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask

concentrated adjustable heat source
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)
1000 ml beaker
concentrated nitric or other container
acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in

distilled water filter paper
and funnel

glass stirring rod
1. Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 ml of concentrated
sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2. Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and bring the water to a
gentle boil.
3. After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling water, and continue to
stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask
out, and allow it to cool for about five minutes.
4. Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to cool, use it to create
an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13, steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the
mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts,
stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When the mixture
stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
5. Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap water. Place the
flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2
6. Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice bath until it is cold.
7. Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution through the filter
paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8. Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the filter paper in the
flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.
9. Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10. Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will react with metal
containers to produce picrates that could explode spontaneously.

The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather than using the burning cloth
to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical
fire bottle utilizes the very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate.
When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the paper soaked
in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the acid, instantly bursts into a white
flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be
reduced to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.

potassium chlorate 12 bottle
(2 teaspoons)

sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, w/plastic inside

conc. sulfuric acid (4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges

gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels

glass or plastic cup and spoon
1. Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure that the acid will not
eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be
found and tested, until a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is
2. Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3. Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. Wipe up any spills of
acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with
plenty of water. Set it aside to dry.
4. Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of sugar into the glass or
plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium
chlorate and sugar.
5. Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold the paper towel in half,
and pour the solution of dissolved potassium chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet.
Allow the towel to dry.
6. When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing the gasoline and
sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in
all places. Store the bottle in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.
7. When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct liquids, a dark
brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution on top. The two solutions will not mix.
To use the chemical fire bottle, simply throw it at any hard surface.
9. To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, and put a few drops of
sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should immediately burst into a white flame.


Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane stoves or for bunsen burners,
can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist
would have to do would be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or
other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and on the thickness of
the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to the point of bursting the container in
about five minutes.

In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large
fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container often puts out the
fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with
gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be
extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline
would probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the
bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal should
immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will
do nicely.

During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second only to nuclear weapons in
their devastating effects. These are basically similar to the above devices, except that an explosive
charge is used to rupture the fuel container and disperse it over a wide area. a second charge is used
to detonate the fuel. The reaction is said to produce a massive shockwave and to burn all the oxygen
in a large area, causing suffocation.

Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into fortified bunkers and other
partially-sealed spaces, so a large bomb placed in a building would result in the destruction of the
majority of surrounding rooms, rendering it structurally unsound. Exodus '94
Fun with dry ice... LOTS of fun with dry ice. (from the Usenet.)

There is no standard formula for a dry ice bomb, however a generic form is as follows:

Take a 2-liter soda bottle, empty it completely, then add about 3/4 Lb of Dry Ice (crushed works best)
and (optional) a quantity of water.

Depending on the condition of the bottle, the weather, and the amount and temperature of the bottle
the bomb will go off in 30 seconds - 5 minutes. Without any water added, the 2-liter bottles will go
often in 3-7 minutes if dropped into a warm river, and in 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours in open air.

The explosion sounds equivalent to an M-100. _Plastic_ 16 oz. soda bottles and 1 liter bottles work
almost as well as do the 2-liters, however glass bottles aren't nearly as loud, and can produce
dangerous shrapnel.

Remember, these are LOUD! A classmate of mine set up 10 bottles in a nearby park without adding water.
After the first two went off (there was about 10 minutes between explosions) the Police arrived and
spent the next hour trying to find the guy who they thought was setting off M-100's all around them...


Time Bombs:
1. Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plastic cans that hold the coaters used
for large-format Polaroid film). A film canister would probably work; the key is, it should seal
tightly and take a fair amount of effort to open).
Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite sealing it. Put the assembled
bomb in your pocket, or behind your back.
Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his attention is drawn away, quickly
seal the lid on the bomb, deposit it somewhere within a few feet of the mark, out of obvious
sight, then leave.
Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll hear a loud "pop" and an even
louder "Aarrggghhh!" within a minute, when the CO2 pressure becomes sufficient to blow off the
In a cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark will proabably never figure out what
made the noise.
2. Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle. Put in as many chunks of dry ice as
possible before the smoke gets too thick. Screw on the cap, place in an appropriate area, and run
like hell. After about a minute (your mileage may vary), a huge explosion will result, spraying
water everywhere, along with what's left of the 2-liter bottle.

More things to do with Dry Ice:

Has anyone ever thrown dry ice into a public pool? As long as you chuck it into the bottom of the deep
end, it's safe, and it's really impressive if the water is warm enough

"Fun stuff. It SCREAMS when it comes into contact with metal..." "You can safely hold a small piece of
dry ice in your mouth if you KEEP IT MOVING CONSTANTLY. It looks like you're smoking or on fire."

Editor's Note: Dry ice can be a lot of fun, but be forewarned:

Using anything but plastic to contain dry ice bombs is suicidal. Dry ice is more dangerous than TNT,
because it's extremely unpredictable. Even a 2-liter bottle can produce some nasty shrapnel: One
source tells me that he caused an explosion with a 2-liter bottle that destroyed a metal garbage can.
In addition, it is rumored that several kids have been killed by shards of glass resulting from the
use of a glass bottle. For some reason, dry ice bombs have become very popular in the state of Utah.
As a result, dry ice bombs have been classified as infernal devices, and possession is a criminal

A classic for the Book.. -= Exodus =- '94

There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic "light the fuse, throw the bomb,
and run" approach, and there are sensitive mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally,
electrical detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more
appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical detonation system into a
stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuze would be
easier to hide.


The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite type of simple ignition system.
By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition.
Modern waterproof fuse is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It
is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for a nine-foot length.
Cannon Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because of its simplicity. All that need be
done is light it with a match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the
grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system can be
acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not just float around, the
next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but
still retains its simplicity. One such method is described below:

* strike-on-cover type matches
* electrical tape or duct tape
* waterproof fuse

1. To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6 inch or longer piece
of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the start button the at the instant when the fuse
lights, and stop the watch when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of
fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown below:
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of combustion is 20 seconds.
20 seconds / 8 inches = 2.5 seconds per inch.
If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired time by the number of
seconds per inch:
10 seconds / 2.5 seconds per inch = 4 inches
2. After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is to go off, add about 1/2
an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and cut it off.
3. Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not pull off individual
matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match
sections, and leave the other one to make a second igniter.
4. Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches touching the very end
of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure
they are very secure by pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to
5. Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making sure that the
striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so
that is fairly tight around the matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to
the matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.
\ /
\ / ------ match book cover
\ /
| M|f|M ---|------- match head
| A|u|A |
| T|s|T |
| C|e|C |
| |f| |
|#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper
\ |e| /
\ |.| /
\ |f| /
\ |u| /
The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. The matches are taped to the
fuse. The striker will rub against the matcheads when the match book is pulled.
6. When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the striking paper across the
match heads with enough friction to light them. In turn, the burning matcheads will light the
fuse, since it adjacent to the burning match heads.


Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill
a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you
want, but this is the right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later.

To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2 teaspoon of corn starch. Cut
some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put
these together until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn through very

Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and hold the bundle over the
black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture.
Press them under with the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste.
Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through smoothly in one long

To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250 degree oven or tie it to
a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses
it will be put to later. Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even
dry completely at room temperatures.

Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight container. Handle this
fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The
fuses can usually be pulled out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be
extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.

Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By dissolving about one
teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in
it a long piece of all cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries,
it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of the slow burning fuse
that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to
insure ignition, since the slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature.

A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder
and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that
it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry.


Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a garden supply for tieing
up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn
after the match is removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur
in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees.

It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a
one foot length of string into it. The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out
and tie it up to cool and harden.

It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right. These wicks will burn slowly
with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in
a metal pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. Blackmatch
generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing unpredictable burning times.


Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous terrorist activities. The problem
with an impact-detonating device is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not
explode while being transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a
removable impact initiator.

The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made initiators or primers. A no.
11 cap for black powder firearms is one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about
$2.50. To use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are
also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package of nipples and the caps
that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the way through them, and they have a threaded end,
and an end to put the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
| |
_ | |
| | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\|
_______| |^^^^^^^|
| ___________|
| |
no. 11 |_______|
percussion _______ ------- threads for screwing
cap :
here |__________ nipple onto bomb
|____ |
| |^^^^^^^^^|
|_| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/|
| |

When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into whatever container is used to
make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap
can be carried and placed on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount
before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The only other problem
involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it
off. By attaching fins or a small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when
thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with mercury fulminate
in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also
likely to go off if the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.


A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact iniator can be produced from the common MAGICUBE ($2.40 for 12)
type flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic cover off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs,
each of which has a small metal rod holding it in place.

CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry gently upwards, making sure that

Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be effective in our application.
This coating can be removed by soaking the bulbs in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at
which point the plastic can be easily peeled away.

The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based smokeless powder in acetone
and/or ether, forming a thich glue-like paste. Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick
the bulb (with the metal rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely
covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated over the remainder then ignition should
be very reliable.

To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer can be attached to the opposite
side, so when it is tossed high into the air the appropriate end will hit the ground first.


Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and most reliable form of ignition.
Electrical systems are ideal for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being
caught. With two spools of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a
"safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get hurt. With an
electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device will explode, within fractions of a
second. Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the
detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters
are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well. Model
rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to
use them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to
get, but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run through them, whereas
rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX.
This requires a blasting cap type detonation in most cases. There are, however, military explosive
squibs which will do the job.

Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set
of a high order explosive.


Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on the file until there is
a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the
end. Fill the bulb with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat
the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.


Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it to the ends of two pieces of
copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the
strand to the wire. You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a
good size wire to use.

Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. Place a small pile of
powdered match head in the center and press it flat. place the wires so the steel strand is on top of
and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand.

The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else except the wires at its
ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top
of the lot, and fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder.

The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. A single flashlight battery
will set this off.


Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of mechanical switch to set off an
explosive charge electrically. This type of switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices
in which the person who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it explodes.
Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed

Mercury Switches

Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal conducts electricity, as do all
metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass
tube with two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's nasty habit of
giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to explain a mercury switch.
A / \ B
_____wire +______/_________ \
\ ( Hg )| /
\ _(_Hg___)|___/
wire - |

When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both contacts, current flows
through the switch. If this particular switch was in its present position, A---B, current would be
flowing, since the mercury can touch both contacts in the horizontal position.

If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only touch the + contact on the A
side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury does not reach both contacts when the switch is in
the vertical position. This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path
of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the switch down, if it
was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt the switch into the verticle position,
causing the mercury to touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the
igniter or squib in an explosive device.

Tripwire Switches

A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly invisible line of string or
fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and by putting some type of trap there also, nasty
things can be caused to occur. If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use
such a tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of a standard
clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them, and connecting wires to each
aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire
was placed between the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When the
tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to flow between the two
pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, which would have the igniter or squib in it.
Current would flow between the contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it
it to explode. Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since the spring
also conducts electricity.

Radio Control Detonators

In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled detonator to set off explosives.
With a good radio detonator, one can be several miles away from the device, and still control exactly
when it explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators is
that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to
spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If
such an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby
store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she
would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC
car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat,
and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device
should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both
he controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the device became a


A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set up to the time that it
explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a
fuse. This section deals with the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who
wishes to be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it does.


It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for ignition. Perhaps the simplest
way to do so is with a cigarette. An average cigarette burns for between 8-11 minutes. The higher the
"tar" and nicotine rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn
quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to go out if left
unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette
is better for delaying the ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the
cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses will
often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure they stay lit and to see how
long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully
putting a hole all the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the
fuse for a device in the hole formed.

|=| ---------- filter
| |
| |
|o| ---------- hole for fuse
cigarette ------------ | |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ---------- light this end


Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who wishes to threaten a place
with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location and means to disarm it. Such a device could be
placed in any populated place if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer
delay. By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and using the
hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made. The minute hand of a clock
should be removed, unless a delay of less than an hour is desired.

The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set for a maximum time of 12
hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24
hours are possible. By removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a
squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. All that one has to do
is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, connect the leads, and go away. This could
also be done with an electronic watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker
of the watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer could be
extremely small.

The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up
to a week. The leads from the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or
squib would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be work well.
Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or electro-magnetic switch to fire the
igniter, and the current of the watch would not have to be stepped up.


Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some cases. These were often used
in the bombs the Germans dropped on England. The delay would ensure that a bomb would detonate hours
or even days after the initial bombing raid, thereby increasing the terrifying effect on the British

If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and capped with several thicknesses of
aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will
react with aluminum foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be
open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is forming does not break the
_ _
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |_____________| |
| | | |
| | sulfuric | |
| | | |
| | acid | |
| | | |---------- aluminum foil
| |_____________| | (several thicknesses)

The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured there with tape. When the
acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
1. Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats through the foil is
collected in a glass container placed underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass
container, a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in
the acid.
2. Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid drips down into a
container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame
can be used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if
some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and this mixture is used as
an igniter for the rest of the thermite.
3. Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way.

-= Exodus =-
FILM CANISTERS 2 (Originally By Bill)

For a relatively low shrapnel explosion, I suggest pouring it into an empty 35mm film cannister. Poke
a hole in the plastic lid for a fuse. These goodies make an explosion audible a mile away easily.
* Poke the hole before putting the flash powder into the cannister.
* Don't get any powder on the lip of the cannister.
* Only use a very small quantity and work your way up to the desired result.
* Do not pack the powder, it works best loose.
* Do not grind or rub the mixture - it is friction sensitive.
* Use a long fuse.

-= Exodus =-

Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where perpetrators of violence run wild.
Bags and briefcases are often searched by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual
might intend to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called a book
bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book.

Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the hardback variety to hide any
protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When
an individual makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place
where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb can be done by anyone who
possesses an electric drill and a coping saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued
together. By pouring an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling the
bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold all of the book's pages
together tightly. After the glue-water solution has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution
has been stirred well, the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each
page must be thoroughly soaked.

It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while
the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vise
works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now
rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through
the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a
shell of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:
| ____________________ |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |__________________| |

(book covers omitted)

This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. After building his/her bomb,
which usually is of the timer or radio controlled variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The
bomb itself, and whatever timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from
rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has been turned on,
the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its destination.
PHONE BOMBS -= Exodus =-

The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past to kill or injure a specific
individual. The basic idea is simple: when the person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small
but powerful high explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the current
flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the high explosive in the person's
hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down.

Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was.
Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver, and screw the cover on,
making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place.

When the individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape,
and remove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note that the device will not
explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the phone must lift up the receiver, and remove
the tape. It is highly probable that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes...


The above seems overly complicated to me... it would be better to rig the device as follows:
/|-------|\ Wire the detonator IN LINE with the wires going to the earpiece,
~ | | ~ (may need to wire it with a relay so the detonator can receive
@@@@@@@@ the full line power, not just the audio power to the earpiece)
@@@@@@@@@@ Pack C4 into the phone body (NOT the handset) and plug it back
in. When they pick up the phone, power will flow through the
circuit to the detonator....

The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A blowgun can be extremely
accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an
explosive dart or projectile is not difficult. To acquire a blowgun, please contact the editor at one
of the addresses given in the introduction.

Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are
taken for headaches or allergies. Empty gelatin pill capsules can be purchased from most health-food
stores. Next, the capsule would be filled with an impact-sensitive explosive, such as mercury
fulminate. An additional high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact sensitive explosive,
if one of the larger capsules were used.

Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued
to the end containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive struck the
target first.

Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the tassel or cotton, and
look something like this:
/mercury | \-----------------------
(fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels

Care must be taken- if a powerful dart went off in the blowgun, you could easily blow the back of your
head off.


A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble about 500 ft. with
reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a
vital area. Because of the relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the
wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles.

A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device by filling it with an
impact-sensitive explosive material.

Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would be
lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to
insure that the device did not explode before it reached its intended target.

Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent
exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of
their light weight.


When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and rapidity of modern firearms, it
becomes very easy to take on a small army with a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive
ammunition, but that can be difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home.
There is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition is modified
incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the slightest bit wider, an explosion in the
barrel of the weapon will occur. For this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH


If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her handgun, he/she could do it,
provided that the person had an impact-sensitive explosive and a few simple tools. One would first
purchase all lead bullets, and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole
in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of an explosive. After
filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a
candle. A diagram of a completed exploding bullet is shown below.

_o_ ------------ drop of wax
| |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive
| |_| |

This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.

In many spy thrillers, an assassin is depicted as manufacturing "exploding bullets" by placing a drop
of mercury in the nose of a bullet. Through experimentation it has been found that this will not work.
Mercury reacts with lead to form a inert silvery compound.


Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some extremely powerful special
ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the
shell can be re-closed. Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to
the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched weapons.

Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the shot in the firing chamber.
Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel.

Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a chemical
fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermite bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the
device is made, it must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in
the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel.

Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the
projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is
shown below:
|| |
|| |
|| | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel
|| |
|| |
|| | ------- fuse
|| |
|| --------- dowel
|| --------- insert this end into shotgun

Special "grenade-launcher blanks" should be used- use of regular blank ammunition may cause the device
to land perilously close to the user.


This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for compressed air or compressed gas
weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually
thought of as kids toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons.


A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or pistol that uses compressed
air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can
have almost as high a muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177
caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a caliber of

Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to ignite the powder in the bullet.
These primers can be bought at gun stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such
primers detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown at
a hard surface at a great speed.

Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first,
they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of
thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be
sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below:

_____ primers _______
| |
| |
| |
______ ______
| ________________________ |-------------------
| ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or
| ________________________ |------------------- cotton
|_____ _____|-------------------
|_______ antenna tubing

The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The tubing is then filled with
an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued
to the rear primer, to insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile
should be about 3/4 of an inch long.


A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at close ranges. Because of this,
relatively large explosive projectiles can be adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design
similar to that used in section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or
smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would have to purchase
black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since there are percussion caps that are
about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely.

-= Exodus =-

Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. Perpetrators of violence do not
usually employ such devices, because they are difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not,
however, impossible to make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such
things. A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to fear.


Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before the myth of christ began.
They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks. They were not usually used for military
purposes because they were inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets
are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. Perpetrators
of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines.
Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required.
Estes, a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Their
most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust; enough to send a
relatively large explosive charge a significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce
even larger rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are
quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines have three basic
sections. The diagram below will help explain them.
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
\ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing
\_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l|
_______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a|
/ clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y|
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard

The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled "thrust" is ignited, the
"thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a propellant such as black powder or pyrodex,
burns, forcing large volumes of hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the
rocket forward.

After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is ignited. It is usually a
slow-burning material, similar to black powder that has had various compounds added to it to produce
visible smoke, usually black, white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will
be seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee.

When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finely
powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection
charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a

Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T,
A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are
twice as powerful as "A" engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The
number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds. the final number and
letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection
charge fires; "3T" indicates a 3 second delay.

NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum dust with ammonium
perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The mixture is bound together by an epoxy.


A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered to its target by means of a
rocket. Most people who would make such a device would use a model rocket engine to power the device.
By cutting fins from balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C"
engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2 cartridge
bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that the fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect.
4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic
tool. The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below.

____________ rocket engine
| _________ crater maker
| |
| |
V |
|_______________________________| ______________________
\ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \
\__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \
__ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # )
/ | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # /
/___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/

thrust - - - - - -
smoke ***
ejection charge ::::

Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket engine. Note in the diagram the
absence of the clay over the ejection charge Many different types of explosive payloads can be
attached to the rocket, such as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle.

Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that the rocket flies straight.
The fins should look like the following diagram:

| \
| \
| \ --------- glue this to rocket engine
| \
| \
| \
| |
| |
| |
leading edge |
------- |
| |
| | trailing edge
| | --------
| |
| |
| |
| |

The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so that they are rounded. This will
help make the rocket fly straight. A two inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the
rocket to launch it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment of a
plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins of the rocket. A front
view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.

fin | <------ fin
| | |
| | |
| __|__ |
V / \ V
---------------| |---------------
|o <----------- segment of plastic straw
| <------ fin

By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a launch rod can be made. After a
fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through
the segment of plastic straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one
illustated on the following page:

/ \
| |
cut here _____ |
| |
| |
| / \
V / \
_________________/ \________________
/ \
/ \
and here ______|

Bend wire to this shape:

_______ insert into straw
\ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle
| <---------- put this end in ground


Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model rocket engines with an "0" for a
time delay are designed for use in multi-stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent
example of such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge explodes.
If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0" engine, the explosion of the ejection
charge will send hot gasses and burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite
the thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss of

The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as travels, and it gains velocity.
A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order
for a rocket to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. This is
accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the center of drag back by
putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears
on the following page:
/ \
| |
| C |
| M | ------ CM: Crater Maker
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine
/| 6 |\
/ | | | \
/ | 5 | \
/ |___| \ ---- fin
/ /| |\ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | C | \ \
| / | 6 | \ |
| / | | | \ |
| / | 0 | \ |
|/ |___| \|
| / \ |
\______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin
C6-0 rocket engine

The fuse is put in the bottom engine.

Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it a longer range. It is
important, however, that for each additional stage, the fin area gets larger.

-= Exodus =- '94

A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only difficult part is finding a
pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile
may jam. Copper or aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to
withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon.

If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be made to explode, a
pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to
1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe.
Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe. A small
hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill
the pipe with about two teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by
ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon securely
against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person is lucky, he will not have
overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look
like this:

__________________ fuse hole
| |_____________________________________________________________|
|endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge
| ______|______|____|____________________________________________

An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 cartridge. It is relatively
simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch
from the end of the cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for a
small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue paper packing wad.
When the cannon is fired, it ( )
will ignite the end of the |C |
fuse, and shoot the CO2 | M|
cartridge. The | |
explosive-filled cartridge | |
will explode in about three \ /
seconds, if all goes well. [] <--- taped fuse
Such a projectile would look []
like this: []
! <--- Bare fuse (add matchheads)

___ A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a
/ \ normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A
| | rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket
| C | alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the
| M | initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is
| | moving will go further than one that is launched when it
| | is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal
|___| rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look
| E | like the image to the left.
| N |
| G | the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short,
| I | but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection
| N | charge exploded. Thus, the delay before the ejection
| E | charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb
|___| explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the
burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and
simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high


In high school, a friend and I built cannons and launched CO2 cartridges, etc, etc. However, the
design of the cannon is what I want to add here.

It was made from plain steel water pipe, steel wire, and lead.

Here is a cross section:
| |
| xxxxx_____________________________________________ 2" ID pipe
| |_________________________________________________
| | .................... <- steel wire }
| | _____ } 3/4" ID pipe
this | | | xxx______________________________________}_________________
wire | | | |__________________________________________________________
holds | |....| |
it up |>|....| |
in the| | | |__________________________________________________________
cooker| | | xxx________________________________________________________
| | |____ }
| | ..................... } <- cast lead
| |_______________________________________________}_
| | _____________________________________________
| xxxxx

We dug into the side of a sand pile and built a chimney out of firebrick. Then we stood the assembled
pipe and wire on end in the chimney, sitting on some bricks. We then had a blowtorch heating up the
chimney, so that the pipe was red hot. Then we poured molten lead into the space between the pipes. If
the caps aren't screwed on real tight, some of the lead will leak out. If that happens, turn off the
blowtorch and the pipe will cool enough and the lead will stiffen and stop the leak.

We used homemeade and commercial black powder, and slow smokeless shotgun powder in this thing. After
hundreds of shots we cut it up and there was no evidence of cracks or swelling of the inner pipe.
SMOKE BOMBS 4.14 -= Exodus =-

One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in many way would be a smoke
bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover.
Such a device, were it to produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of
a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the military smoke bombs
employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds, such materials are usually unavailable to even
the most well-equipped terrorist. Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves.

Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such as black powder or pyrodex, to
support combustion. The base material will burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in
the device to burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material,
produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount of oil in it, and a base
powder works well also. Other excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground
plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and sulfur
and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizer mixtures, if the ratio is not
correct, produce much smoke when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The
trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and
contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large
enough to allow the material to burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic
containers, since they will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large
enough to prevent an explosion.


The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that
dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary

Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back.


Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. by putting a ball of colored
flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the ejection charge fires, will send out a burning
colored ball. The materials that produce the different colors of flames appear below.

red strontium road flares,
salts red sparklers

green barium salts green sparklers
(barium nitrate)

yellow sodium salts gold sparklers
(sodium nitrate)

blue powdered copper blue sparklers,
old pennies

white powdered magnesium firestarters,
or aluminum aluminum foil

purple potassium permanganate purple fountains,
treating sewage

A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The instructions are below:
1. Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. "Small" means anything less
than 4 times the diameter of the tube.
2. Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it with epoxy and the drying
agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness,
as specified on the package.
3. When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and insert a desired length of fuse.
4. Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash powder, pyrodex, black powder,
potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures
will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top.
5. Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and a pencil or other suitable
ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more epoxy.
6. Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow it to dry.
7. For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash powder, mixed with a small
amount of other material for colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it to the
flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks of
sparkler material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color as the
sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will be produced. White sparks can be produced
from magnesium shavings, or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.
Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode with a red flash, and throw out
white sparks.
First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material inside it. Or, I could take a red
sparkler, and finely powder it.
Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY
ratio of 9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small
balls of aluminum foil I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the house,
to make sure that the stuff doesn't react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount of
it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the firecracker.
8. If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, professional to semi-professional
displays can be produced.


An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from model rocket engines. Estes
engines are recommended.
1. Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that the power doubles with each
letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details)
2. Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits the engine, or make a tube
from several thicknesses of paper and glue.
3. Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the powder is exposed. Glue the
tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash
powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch.
4. By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, various types of effects can be
5. By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the tube, spectacular displays
with moving fireballs or M.R.V.'s can be produced.
6. Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with the fuses in the tube, multiple
colored bursts can be made.


Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to make, compared to the other
types of home-made fireworks, but they are well worth the trouble.
1. Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with several layers of paper and/or
masking tape. This must be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10
inch lengths.
2. Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy and the drying agent. About 1/2
of an inch is sufficient.
3. Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and insert a desired length of water
proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse fits tightly.
4. Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the tube.
5. Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired color. Mix this powder with a
small amount of flash powder and a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of
60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water,
one drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed.
This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone. Make a ball
out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow the ball to dry.
6. When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down fairly easily. Put a small wad
of tissue paper in the tube, and pack it gently against the ball with a pencil.
7. When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in a safe direction, light the
fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of
about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step 4,
or by using a slightly longer tube.
8. If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.
9. The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, producing an effect of
falling colored fireballs.

-= Exodus =- '94

Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained through a public or
university library. There are also many publications that are put out by people who want to make money
by telling other people how to make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in
paramilitary magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of places that
information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes fireworks companies and the like.


BOX 1378-SN


P.O. BOX 226

P.O. BOX 22927


P.O. BOX 10585







but put maker at risk) MILITARY EXPLOSIVES Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a
$20 manual mainly useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or "Manual of
Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, it's in the office). This is a $60 book, well worth the cash,
dealing with the above two topics, plus demolitions, and non-quarry blasting.

-= Exodus =-

In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she wishes to make a truly useful
explosive, he or she will have to steal the chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such
chemicals in order of priority would probably resemble the following:
_______ ______

____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate
____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate
____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder)
____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate
____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium
____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum
____ Potassium Permanganate
GASES ____ Sulfur (flowers of)
_______ ____ Mercury
____ Potassium Nitrate
____ Hydrogen ____ Potassium Hydroxide
____ Oxygen ____ Phosphorus
____ Chlorine ____ Sodium Azide
____ Carbon Dioxide ____ Lead Acetate
____ Barium Nitrate

Print this sheet out and carry it with you! Memorize it, anything. It is INVALUABLE. All of these
chemicals should be carried in your school lab. Happy hunting. :)

- Exodus -

PART 2 - Tennis ball cannons

Information from the Usenet. The Usenet is a worldwide network of 15,000 machines and over 500,000
people- And growing!

Addendum by The Editor: If you aren't in the Chicago area, check a local BBS list. If you see a BBS
which runs under UNIX, odds are it carries usenet. The appropriate place to look is rec.pyrotechnics.

At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin rather than the molded aluminum.
We would cut the tops and bottoms off of a bunch of them and tape them together with duct tape,
forming a tube of two feet or more.

At the end we would tape a can with the bottom intact, more holes punched (with a can opener) around
the top, and a small hole in the side at the base. We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we
could aim it reliably. Any object that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then placed

In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plastic solder spool as ammunition, with tape
over the ends of the center hole and sometimes filled with washers for weight. When taken to parties
or picnics, we would use whatever was handy. Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with potato chips
provided spectacular entertainment.

Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole in the side of the end can and
allowed to vaporize for a few moments. The "fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole"
and ignite it.

BOOM! Whoosh! The clock never worked after that!

Our version of the potato chip cannon, originally designed around the Pringles potato chip can, was
built similarly. Ours used coke cans, six with the top and bottom removed, and the seventh had Bottle
opener holes all around one end, the top of this can was covered with a grid or piece of wire
screening to keep the tennis ball from falling all the way to the bottom. This was spiral wrapped with
at least two rolls of duct tape.

A wooden shoulder rest and forward hand grip was taped to the tube. For ignition we used lantern
batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push button on the hand grip. A fresh wilson tennis ball
was stuffed all the way back to the grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in one of two
holes in the end. The ignition wire was poked through the other hole.

We would then lie in ambush, waiting for somthing to move. When fired with the proper air/fuel
mixture, a satisfying thoomp! At maximum range the ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 degree
launch angle. Closer up the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent. When launched at a moving
car the thud as it hit the door would generally rattle anyone inside. Luckily we never completed the
one that shot golf balls.

PART 4 More Fun Stuff for Terrorists Carbide Bomb

This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the
stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store.

Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put
a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is
similar to the gas used in cutting torches.

Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will
get a nice fireball!

Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a
switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tailpipeby drilling a hole
that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of
the switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on
the battery. With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful
that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!!

PART 5- This is all various files I gleaned from BBS's. (Added 8-23-90)

Balloons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas that you get out of the taps on the
lab desks, then tie up the balloon tight, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you know,
the ones that are always smoking, they love to pop balloons with lit cigarette.... get the picture?
Good... -= Exodus =-

[ Touched up by V.T - The Editor ]

First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved
piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar (known as the shackle) that
is pushed in to the lock when you lock it.

To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the desired combination and the pressure on
the wedge is released therefore letting the lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you
can open a lock without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps when
you don't know the combination to begin with).

To bypass this hassle, simply take a thinned hairpin (file it down) or a opened out piece of a
collapsing antenna (the inside diameter of the curved piece of metal should be the same as the
diameter of the shackle- if the metal is too thick, use fine sandpaper to thin it down.

Once you have your hair pin (make sure it's metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before
it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now,
using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many hairpins and
file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can jimmy various locks.

Look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try
both sides. When ya find out what side it opens from, , take the lock pick and stick the filed end
into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from.

Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up
and down. The lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing it to

Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock before because of
the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the
Master lock casing is very tight so ya can't get the shim in.



Many of you out there probably have fantasies of revenge against teachers, principals and other people
who are justassholes. depending on your level of hatred of this person i would advise that you do some
of these following experiments:
1. Pouring dishsoap into the gas tank of your enemy- many of you already know that gasoline +
dishsoap(e.g. joy, palmolive, etc.) form a mixture called napalm. now napalm is a jelly-like
substance used in bombs, flamethrowers, etc. now you can only guess what this mixture would do to
someone's fuel line!!!!
2. Spreading dirty motor oil/castor oil on someone's exhaust pipe- when the exhaust pipe heats up(and
it will!!)the motor oil or castor oil on the pipe will cause thick, disgusting smoke to ooze forth
from the back of that car. Who knows maybe he/she might be pulled over and given a ticket!!
3. Light Bulb Bomb- see part one of the file
4. Simple smoke/stink bomb- you can purchaase sulphur at a drugstore under the name flowers of
sulphur. now when sulphur burns it will give off a very strong odor and plenty of smoke. now all
you need is a fuse from a firecracker, a tin can, and the sulphur. fill the can with sulphur(pack
very lightly), put aluninum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into the foil, insert
the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value your lungs. you can find many uses for
this( or at least i hope so.


A fact I forgot to mention in my previous alarm articles is that one can also use polyurethane foam in
a can to silence horns and bells. You can purchase this at any hardware store as insulation. it is
easy to handle and dries faster.

Many people that travel carry a pocket alarm with them. this alarm is a small device that is hung
around the door knob, and when someone touches the knob his body capacitance sets off the alarm. these
nasty nuisences can be found by walking down the halls of a hotel and touching all the door knobs very
quickly. if you happen to chance upon one, attach a 3' length of wire or other metal object to the
knob. this will cause the sleeping business pig inside to think someone is breaking in and call room
service for help. all sorts of fun and games will ensue.

Some high-security instalations use keypads just like touch-tone pads (a registered trade mark of bell
systems) to open locks or disarm alarms. most use three or four digits. to figure out the code, wipe
the key-pad free from all fingerprints by using a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol. after the keypad has
been used just apply finger print dust and all four digits will be marked. now all you have to do is
figure out the order. if you want to have some fun with a keypad, try pressing the * and # at the same
time. many units use this as a panic button. This will bring the owner and the cops running and
ever-one will have a good time. never try to remove these panels from the wall, as they have built-in
tamper switches.

On the subject of holdups, most places (including supermarkets, liqour stores, etc.) have what is
known as a money clip. these little nasties are placed at the bottom of a money drawer and when the
last few bills are with-drawn a switch closes and sets the alarm off. that's why when you make your
withdrawl it's best to help yourself so you can check for these little nasties. if you find them,
merely insert ones underneath the pile of twenties, and then pull out the twenties, leaving the
one-dollar bill behind to prevent the circuit from closing.

anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. the bottom of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent
back. a giant firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks.
the fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.
! ! After first making sure there are no
! ! children nearby, the acid or glycerine
! ! <-CHEMICAL INGITER is put into the straw and the can is set
---- ---- down by a tree or wall where it will not
! !1! ! be knocked over. the delay should give
! ===== ! you three to five minutes. it will then
!* ! ! "! have a shattering effect on passersby.
! ! ! !
! ! !% !
! ==== !
! !
! # ! It is hardly likely that anyone would
! --- ! pick up and drink from someone else's
! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS soft drink can. but if such a crude
! / ! person should try to drink from your
! ! bomb he would break a nasty habit
--------- fast!

Pyro Book ][ by Capt Hack and Grey Wolf TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE
1. Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can.
2. add a few drops of glycerine
3. wait 3-4 min.
4. get the hell out.. the stuff will smoke, then burst into flame..

** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple]
** the reaction will spatter a bit ->it can be messy...
** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts]


INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the attitude with which they
are written. They don't say, "Now I know you would like to blow holy hell out of something just for
the fun of it so here is how to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont
does it or how the anchient Chinese did it but not how you can do it with the resourses and materials
available to you.

Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because they are just outlines
written with the understanding that an instructor is going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to
search out the materials that can be put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you
need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting point to remember is that
it is much easier to make a big e explosion than a small one. It is very difficult for a home
experimenter to make a firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is easy.


This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume Potassium or Sodium Nitrate and
granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it;
light; and step back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest a lot of
experiments for this.


Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you experiment with this. It goes off
in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because
of its fast burning rate.

As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be harder to get without going
through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this. I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to
my area) has been instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in
certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid, Nitric acid and Toluene (the
makings for TNT) in one order the police would be notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how
to make the things you need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out something
really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I am guessing you would prefer it
that way.


Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up; then use the edges of the
cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets easy with practice. You can do this while watching
TV and collect enough for a bomb without dying of boredom.

Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of black powder. Be careful not
to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this
stuff for rocket fuel. A science teacher was killed that way.

Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you can strike a safety match on a
window pane? Hold a paper match between your thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press
the head firmly against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 feet while
maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat to light the match.

Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper match with foil. Set it in
the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle. Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If
you got it right, the match will zip up and hit the ceiling.

I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are made from a bicycle spoke.
At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now
have a piece of stiff wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of
wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole. It sould fit very
tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes
off with a bang.


Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should only cost a few dollars.
What you will get is about a gallon of dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant
glass container. The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container.

Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid until white fumes appear. As soon
as you see the white fumes, turn off the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated
acid into a glass container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no metal. It
must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb moisture from the air and become diluted.
Want to know how to make a time bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your
acid and follow me into the next installment.


To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts by volume Potassium chlorate
and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top
with the end of a spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid in the
depression and step back.

It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames. To make the fuse, cut about
2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put
about an inch of the clorate/sugar mixture.

Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this with the
open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through
the fibers and ignite the mixture.

The time delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying how tightly it is packed.
Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react with cotton and become weakened in the process. By
punching a hole in the side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and used
to set off the device of your choice.

Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can be used to make a wide
variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost
several people that way. But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have
decided to tell all. I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but for now, let's look at a
couple of interesting electric fuses.




Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. then add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric
acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to appear. if no change is observed, warm the test
tube in a water bath at 40 celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and
filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to
a meter stick and light it (while staying at least a meter away) .

I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical demonstrations" for a few of
the precise amounts of chemicals in some experiments. ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!

instructions on how to do some interesting experiments with common household chemicals. Some may or
may not work depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and brands. I
would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some knowledge of chemistry, especially for
the more dangerous experiments.

I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this information. It is provided
for use by people knowledgable in chemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely
handle such experiments.



This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you shouild know what you're doing
before you try this...

Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'do not mix with chlorine bleach', and visa-versa? That's
because if you mix ammonia water with ajax or something like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To
capture it, get a large bottle and put ajax in the bottom. then pour some ammonia down into the
bottle. since the c hlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use large
amounts of either ajax or ammonia (don't!).


Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It
should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start burning...


To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react with that acid. Try vinegar
(acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note
that it is lighter than air.... light a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*.

Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. this involve sseperating water (H2O)
into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or a DC
transformer), two test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking 6-12
volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of water. Submerge the two test
tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect
the battery to some wire going down to the electrodes.

This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will corrode
your copper wires leading to the carbon electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and
sodium ions, the chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to form
sodium hydroxide....). therefore, if you can get your hands on some sulfuric acid, use it instead. it
will not affect the reaction other than making the water conduct electricity.

WARNING: DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current! Not only is AC inherently more dangerous
than DC, it also produces both Hydrogen and Oxygen at each electrode.


Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it inverted, and bring it
near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and
drop it into the bottle. The hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on
purity and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not react if it is dark
and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is turned on, enough energy is present to cause
them to react...


Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from a battery- it's a black
powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will
build up and shoot it off.

Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the bottle. The oxygen will make
it burst into flame. The oxygen will allow things to burn better...


Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To seperate them, put the tincture of
iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid
directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol should
evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid
directly above. If this works (I haven't tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia
to form nitrogen triiodide. ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!

I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react to produce LOTS of
chlorine gas and heat... also mixing the tablets with rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and
highly flammable) gas, and possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it touches)

David Richards

TRIPWIRES by The Mortician

Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my board about landmines... If you can't then
here is the concept.

You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that will light with a fuse. Now
the way this works is if you have a 9 volt battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or some
steel wool you can create a remote ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic like this.
------------------>+ batery
steel || ->- batery
wool || /
:==:--- <--fuse \
|| /
---- spst switch--\

So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or igniter and heat up causing
the fuse to light. Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of wire and
pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the explosive.

Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be,bury it and cover the wires.
Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie one end to a secure object. Have your switch
secured to something and make a loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such
that when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive.

To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and find your best method... Let
me know on any good kills, or new techniques... On my board... (201)376-4462

BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES...... BY Vlad Tepes (of Chgo C64 fame)

Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented, and which I have found to
work better than any other type of release booby trap.

There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise remains the same. What you'll
* 3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft enough to bend easily (galvanized iron works well)
* 6 feet of wire or fishing line
* 5-15 feet of strong string or rope
* 1 really sick mind.

Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so they form a horizontal
line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30 degrees.

Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your nefarious device (say a small
rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or string so the line comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie a
loop in the string so the loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail between the
two nails with the loop around this nail between the two others (see diagrams)
bent nails
/ || ^ slight upward tension
# /\ ||
#/ @ || @ ( @ are the two nails, head on)
# ------!----()------
# trip wire
\ /
Trunk third nail

Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the other end around another
tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a stump etc).

When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your sick creation will be
released to do it's damage (try tying it to a firing pin).

There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be attached to the same nail, or
this device can be used to arm a second trip wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be
used to replace the two bent nails.

A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a hole at each end, or with a
short wire loop welded to each end. One end is attached to the tripwire, the other is attached to a

With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if it is broken. The spring
should be under moderate tension and well oiled.

Improvised Explosives

Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze Written by: The Lich CAUTION: THIS FORMULA ASSUMES THAT THE MAKER

This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive exept that it is supple and
pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C

Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It needs to be freed of water
before the manufacture and this can be done by treating it with calcium chloride until a specific
gravity of 1.12 @ o deg. C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained.

This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking with a hydrometer and
continue to add calcium chloride until the proper reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered
to remove the calcium chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that it
is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that the 50/50 ether ethyl
alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that the formation of the collidon is done very
rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol.

It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine. Like the nitro-gelatine it
is highly flammable and if caught on fire the chances are good that the flame will progress to
detonation. In this explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good idea
to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the final explosive. The following is a
slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine:

Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour 5%

In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with the nitro-glycol. Remember
that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to shock as is nitroglycerin.

The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix these by kneading with gloved
hands until the mixture is uniform. This kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should
be uniform when the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use this
explosive as soon as possible.

If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10 deg. C.). This explosive should detonate at
7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap
or equivelent.

These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the manufacturer has had experience with
this type compound. The foolish and ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to
get to use them.

Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with an amazing record of
safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been made and used to manufacture dynamite and
explosives of this nature with very few mis haps.

Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the stupid and foolhardy. Before
manufacturing these explosives take a drop of nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter
paper and place it on an anvil.

Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I mean! This explosive
compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any doubts DON'T.

Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin by: The Lich

This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is HIGHLY toxic and explosive compounds made from picric
acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absor- bed through the skin. The toxicity of
this explosive restrict's its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and
kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained.

This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. It is the first explosive
used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was
derived from coal tar but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in
approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).

This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or
potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and
filtered to obtain the final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to
ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form dangerous salts when
allowed to contact all metals exept tin and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super
sensitive. They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid.

To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered brands should be
avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this
powder place this powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve.
Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol
with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining
powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex dish.
When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the
pyrex dish.

Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 ml. of
sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat to diss- olve all the crystals. This heating can be
done in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good
cooking oil.

When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, that you've done all this
dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This next step will need to be done with a very good
ventilation system (it is a good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any
procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding 58 g. of sodium nitrate
or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in small portions with
vigorous stirring. A red gas (nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided.

The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes down to
prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been
added the mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped
slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow crystals will form in the
water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is
allowed to cool and then the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very,
very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and places in an oil bath and
heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is best maintained and checked with
a thermometer.

The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder consistency. These powdered
crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature
and poured into the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. This
explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The detonation velocity should be
around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for
most demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for shaped
charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive as C-4 or other R.D.X. based
explosives but it is much easier to make. Again this explosive is very toxic and should be treated
with great care.


Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach by: The Lich

This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explosives of similar composition
were used in World War II as the main explosive filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by
French, German, and other forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to

One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur, sulfides, and picric acid. The
presence of these compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly
decompose ex- plosively while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as
just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not economical due to the
amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This
procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives
are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation.

To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution) obtain a heat
source (hot plate etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh
chemicals), and some potassium chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it
in the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 g. potassium chloride
and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boiled until when checked
by a hydrometer the reading is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge).

When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator until it's between room
temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil the solution
again until it reads 1.3 on the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals that
have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before.

Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled
water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml. distilled water. Heat this solution until it
boils and allow it to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The
process if purifi- cation is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.

Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to drive off all moisture.
Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and
pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a plastic
bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to
evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous

This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density (1.3g./cc.) and dipped in wax to water
proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really
not suited to use in shaped charge applications due to its relatively low detonation velocity. It is
comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be considered the same for the sake of charge computation.

If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the manufacture pro- cess in the
powdering stages preceding the addition of the wax/vaseline mix- ture. This explosive is bristant and
powerful. The addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation velocity is 3300

Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound By the Lich

This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of production of potassium or sodium
chlorate is easier and yields a more pure product than does the plastique explosive from bleach

In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with either
sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these
salts is the salt of choice due to the easy crystalization of the potassium chlorate.

This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H.
swimming pool chlorination compound or equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the
bleach process mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation reaction. In a
large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g. H.T.H. and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g.
sodium chloride. Add enough boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky
substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this chalky substance is no longer
formed the solution is filtered while boiling hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate
will be formed.

This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools.
These crystals are filtered out when the solution reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride
salt was used this clear filtrate (clear liquid after filter- ation) will need to have all water
evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved.

These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to drive off all traces of
water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to a very fine powder (400 mesh).

If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization is much more time
consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the resulting product will crystalize out of
the solution as it cools. The powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with
THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in this explosive it will have a tendancy to cake
and has a slightly lower detonation velocity.

This explosive is composed of the following:

potassium/sodium chlorate 90% vaseline 10%

Simply pour the powder into a plastic baggy and knead in the vaseline carefully. this explosive
(especially if the Sodium Chlorate variation is used) should not be exposed to water or moisture.

The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of 2-3% aluminum substituted
for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set
off at night which will ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this explosive
is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec. for the sodium salt based

Addendum 4/12/91: It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume that
this occurs due to the small amount of water present in the vaseline, and that a different type of
fuel would be better than the vaseline.


In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in their oil spout. if you have time you might
remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to
see the effects but I am sure that I did some damage.

Slow Air

Ok, sneak up the victims car and poke a small hole somewhere in 2 of his/her tires. They only have 1
spare. Now if the hole is small but there then there tire will go flat some where on the road. You
could slice the tire so this is blows out on the road wih a razor blade. Cut a long and fairly deep
(don't cut a hole all the way through) and peel a little bit of the rubber back and cut that off. Now
very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out at a high speed if your lucky.

Vanishing Paint

Spread a little gas or paint thiner on the victims car and this will make his paint run and fade.
Vodka will eat the paint off and so will a little 190. Eggs work great on paint if they sit there long

Loose Wheel

Loosen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon fall off. This can really fuck some one up
if they are cruising when the tire falls off.

Dual Neutral

This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have there off. (On the real wheels, in the
middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots, nuts and assorted things in there and replace the
cover. At this point you could chip some of the teeth off the gears.


Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts on their exhaust so that it hangs low and
will fall off soon. This method also works on transmissions but is a little harder to get all bolts
off, but the harder you work the more you fuck them over.


Learn how to make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. Laughing gas was one of the earliest
anaesthetics. After a little while of inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?]
he couldn't keep from laughing. Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep.

Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is because they has generated it
through plastic bags while their heads were inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed
out to realize it.

The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of the gas. Then you stop
generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in
the meantime. Then, Whee!

To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply house or which you have
purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol.

First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you evaporate the water over the
stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should
solidify instantly when a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate.

When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break it up and store it in a

A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading into a big plastic bag.
The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp.

When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If white fumes appear the heat
should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F.

When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on.

CAUTION: N2O supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don't realize it. It's easy to die from N2O
because you're suffocating and your breathing reflex doesn't know it. Do not put your head in a
plastic bag (duhh...) because you will cheerfully choke to death.


Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years by juvenile punks. Today's
Militants make them just for the hell of it or to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw
away if there is any danger of apprehension.

They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to force out the spent shell.

There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design.

First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest in. The barrel is then taped
securely to the stock with a good, strong tape.

The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger flap to hold a roofing nail,
which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides.

The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe with a bore that fits in a
cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe.

The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through it, is screwed on. Then the
trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass through the hole and rest on the primer.

To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with the thumb of the right hand.
The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the trigger and the thing actually fires.

Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. All caliber bullets, from
the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns.

Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. For instance, a .22 shell
will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to
withstand the pressure of the firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a
wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of steel pipe with threads and
a cap.

Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. The first size of pipe for a
rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second accomodates its wider powder chamber.

A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to comply with the gun laws,
the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long.

Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has a longer stock and its
handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small nail is driven half way into each side of the
stock about four inches in the front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought
around the trigger and snagged over the other nail.

In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it by hand. This is done by
first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to
the trigger and you go off several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel
does not blow up, the gun is (probably) safe to fire by hand. Repeat firings may weaken the barrel, so
NO zip gun can be considered "safe" to use.

Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon Note: Information on the
Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book 'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l

Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead! I won't even bother
mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes only'! I would love it if everyone made a
gallon of astrolite and blew their fucking school to kingdom scum!


The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant research in the '60's.
Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2
times more powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it
isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.

Astrolite G

"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very high detonation velocity,
8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a
very unusual characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into
the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite G has remained detonatable for 4
days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked due to rainy weather" know what that
means?....Astrolite Dynamite!

To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with
one part by weight 'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that the
2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough, that you'll find a better
formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous' hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous...

Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine
are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and
antihypertension), polymerization catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes,
photographic developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be careful with.

Astrolite A/A-1-5

Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with hydrazine. The aluminum
powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.

Misc. info

You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens though, you should flush
the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.

Sodium Chlorate Formulas

Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a substitute. Sodium
chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home
improvement store. It is used in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00.

Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder

65% sodium chlorate, 22% charcoal, 13% sulfur, sprinkle some graphite on top.

Rocket Fuel

6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.

Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance)

50% sodium chlorate, 35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' brand),
10% epoxy resin hardener, 5% sulfur

You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using.

Incendiary Mixture

55% aluminum powder (atomized), 45% sodium chlorate, 5% sulfur

Impact Mixture

50% red phosphorus, 50% sodium chlorate

Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mix- ed with phosphorus. It
has to be hit to be detonated.

Filler explosive

85% sodium chlorate, 10% vaseline, 5% aluminum powder

Nitromethane formulas I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite.
Nitromethane (CH3NO2) specific gravity:1.139
flash point:95f auto-ignite:785f

Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure.
Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes,
fats, etc.

To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:

1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline

Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.

Nitromethane 'solid' explosives

2 parts nitromethane, 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)

soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container. This is supposed to be 30% more powerful
than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin, and has 30% more brilliance.



1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid), 1 working lamp with on/off switch

It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't considered try this one or else they would have
mercuric acid on their faces!
1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb lights up.
2. If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord
3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!)
4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching the Hot-spot contact.
5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off!
6. Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket.
7. And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!!

All credits go to their respective creators.. -= Exodus =- 1994 Release 4.14

.... Thermite Incendiaries and Formulas ....

DISCLAIMER : The making and possesion of the following devices and mixtures is probably illegal in
most communities. The incendiaries are capable of burning in excess of 5400 degrees F. and are next to
impossible to extinguish. If you make them you accept all responsibility for their possesion and use.
You also accept all responsibility for your own stupidity and carelessness. This information is
intended solely to educate.

All Formulas are by Weight

Thermites are a group of pyrotechnics mixtures in which a reactive metal reduces oxygen from a
metallic oxide. This produces a lot of heat, slag and pure metal. The most common themite is
ferroaluminum thermite, made from aluminum (reactive metal) and iron oxide (metal oxide). When it
burns it produces aluminum oxide (slag) and pure iron.

Thermite is usually used to cut or weld metal. As an experiment, a 3lb. brick of thermite was placed
on an aluminum engine block. After the thermite was done burning, only a small portion of block was
melted. However, the block was very warped out of shape plus there were cracks all through the block.
Ferro-thermite produces about 930 calories per gram

The usual proportions of ferro-thermite are 25% aluminum and 75% iron oxide The iron oxide usually
used is not rust (Fe2O3) but iron scale (Fe3O4).Rust will work but you may want to adjust the mixture
to about 77% rust. The aluminum is usually coarse powder to help slow down the burning rate. The
chemicals are mixed together thoroughly and compressed into a suitable container. A first fire mix is
poured on top and ignited.

NOTE: Thermites are generally very safe to mix and store. They are not shock or friction sensitive and
ignite at about 2000 degrees F.

A first fire mix is a mixture that ignites easier than thermite and burns hot enough to light the
thermite reliably. A very good one is :
* Potassium Nitrate 5 parts
* Fine ground Aluminum 3 parts
* Sulfur 2 parts

Mix the above thoroughly and combine 2 parts of it with 1 part of finely powdered ferro-thermite. The
resulting mixture can be light by safety fuse and burns intensely.

One problem with thermites is the difference in weight between the aluminum and the oxide. This causes
them to separate out rendering the thermite useless. One way to fix this is to use a binder to hold
the chemicals to each other. Sulfur is good for this. Called Diasite, this formula uses sulfur to bind
all the chemicals together. It's drawback is the thermite must be heated to melt the sulfur.
* Iron Oxide 70 %
* Aluminum 23 %
* Sulfur 7 %

Mix the oxide and aluminum together and put them in an oven at 325 degrees F. and let the mix heat for
a while. When the mixture is hot sprinkle the sulfur over it and mix well. Put this back in the oven
for a few minutes to melt all the sulfur. Pull it back out and mix it again. While it is still hot,
load into containers for use. When it cools, drill out the diasite to hold about 10 - 15 grams of
first fire mix.

When diasite burns it forms sulfide compounds that release hydrogen sulfide when in contact with
water. This rotten egg odor can hamper fire fighting efforts.

Thermite can be made not to separate by compressing it under a couple of tons pressure. The resulting
pellet is strong and burns slower than thermite powder.

CAST THERMITE: This formula can be cast into molds or containers and hardens into a solid mass. It
does not produce as much iron as regular ferro-thermite , but it makes a slag which stays liquid a lot
longer. Make a mixtures as follows.
* Plaster of Paris 2 parts
* Fine and Coarse Mixed Aluminum 2 parts
* Iron Oxide 3 parts

Mix together well and and enough water to wet down plaster. Pour it into a mold and let it sit for 1/2
hour. Pour off any extra water that seperates out on top. Let this dry in the sun for at least a week.
Or dry in the sun for one day and put in a 250 degree F. oven for a couple of hours. Drill it out for
a first fire mix when dry.


Thermite can be made to explode by taking the cast thermite formula and substituting fine powdered
aluminum for the coarse/fine mix. Take 15 grams of first fire mix and put in the center of a piece of
aluminum foil. Insert a waterproof fuse into the mix and gather up the foil around the fuse.
Waterproof the foil/fuse with a thin coat of wax. Obtain a two- piece spherical mold with a diameter
of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil the inside of the mold to help release the thermite. Now, fill one
half of the mold with the cast thermite. Put the first fire/fuse package into the center of the filled
mold. Fill the other half of the mold with the thermite and assemble mold. The mold will have to have
a hole in it for the fuse to stick out. In about an hour, carefully separate the mold. You should have
a ball of thermite with the first fire mix in the center of it, and the fuse sticking out of the ball.
Dry the ball in the sun for about a week.


The fuse ignites the first fire mix which in turn ignites the thermite. Since the thermite is ignited
from the center out, the heat builds up in the thermite and it burns faster than normal. The result is
a small explosion. The thermite ball burns in a split second and throws molten iron and slag around.
Use this carefully !


To cut metal with thermite, take a refractory crucible and drill a 1/4 in. hole in the bottom. Epoxy a
thin (20 ga.) sheet of mild steel over the hole. Allow the epoxy to dry. Fill the crucible with
ferro-thermite and insert a first fire igniter in the thermite. Fashion a standoff to the crucible.
This should hold the crucible about 1 1/2 in. up. Place the well over your target and ignite the first
fire. The well works this way. The thermite burns, making slag and iron. Since the iron is heavier it
goes to the bottom of the well. The molten iron burns through the metal sheet. This produces a small
delay which gives the iron and slag more time to separate fully. The molten iron drips out through the
hole in the bottom of the crucible. The standoff allows the thermite to continue flowing out of the
crucible. The force of the dripping iron bores a hole in the target.

A 2 lb. thermite well can penetrate up to 3/4 in. of steel. Experiment with different configurations
to get maximum penetration. For a crucible, try a flower pot coated with a magnesium oxide layer.
Sometimes the pot cracks however. Take the cast thermite formula and add 50% ferro-thermite to it.
This produces a fair amount of iron plus a very liquid slag.


This is a very dangerous device. Ask yourself if you really truly want to make it before you do any
work on it. It is next to impossible to give any dimensions of containers or weights of charges
because of the availability of parts changes from one person to the next. However here is a general
description of this device affectionately known as a HELLHOUND.

Make a thermite charge in a 1/8 in. wall pipe. This charge must be electrically ignited. At the
opposite end of the pipe away from the ignitor side put a small explosive charge of flash powder
weighing about 1 oz. Drill a small hole in a pipe end cap and run the wires from the ignitor through
the hole. Seal the wires and hole up with fuel proof epoxy or cement. Try ferrule cement available at
sporting goods stores. Dope the threads of the end caps with a good pipe dope and screw them onto the
pipe. This gives you a thermite charge in an iron pipe arranged so that when the thermite is
electrically ignited, it will burn from one end to the other finally setting of the flash powder

Place this device in a larger pipe or very stout metal container which is sealed at one end. Use a
couple of metal "spiders" to keep the device away from the walls or ends of the larger container. Run
the wires out through the wall of the container and seal the wires with the fuel proof epoxy. Fill the
container with a volatile liquid fuel. Acetone or gasoline works great. Now seal up the container with
an appropriate end cap and it is done.

The device works like this: Attach a timer-power supply to the wires. When the thermite is ignited it
superheats the liquid fuel. Since the container is strong enough to hold the pressure the fuel does
not boil. When the thermite burns down to the explosive, it explodes rupturing the container and
releasing the superheated fuel. The fuel expands, cooling off and making a fine mist and vapor that
mixes with the surrounding air. The hot thermite slag is also thrown into the air which ignites the
fuel-air mix. The result is obvious. Try about 1 1/2 lbs of thermite to a gallon of fuel. For the
pressure vessel, try an old pressure cooker. Because the fuel may dissolve the epoxy don't keep this
device around for very long. But ask yourself, do you really want to make this?


Thermites can also be made from teflon-magnesium or metal flourides-magnesium or aluminum. If there is
an excess of flouride compound in the mixture, flourine gas can be released. Flourine is extremely
corrosive and reactive. The gas can cause organic material to burst into flames by mere contact. For
teflon-magnesium use 67% teflon and 33% magnesium A strong first fire igniter should be used to ignite
this mixture. Both the teflon and the magnesium should be in powdered form. Do not inhale any smoke
from the burning mixture.

If you use metal-florides instead of teflon, use flourides of low energy metals. Lead flouride is a
good example. Try using 90% lead flouride and 10% aluminum.

Warning: Flouride compounds can be very poisonous. They are approximately equal to cyanide compounds.

Another exotic mix is tricalcium orthophosphate and aluminum. When this burns,it forms calcium
phosphide which when contacts water releases hydrogen phosphide which can ignite spontaneously in air.

Tricalcium orthophosphate has the formula Ca3(PO4)2 and is known as white- lockite. Use about 75%
orthophosphate and 25% aluminum. This ratio may have to be altered for better burning as I have not
experimented with it much and don't know if more aluminum may reduce the calcium better. It does work
but it is a hard to ignite mixture. A first fire mix containing a few percent of magnesium works well.

Fighting thermite fires:

Two ways to fight thermite fires are either smothering the thermite with sand. This doesn't put out
the thermite but it does help contain it and block some of the heat.

The other way is to flood the thermite with a great amount of water. This helps to break the thermite
apart and stop the reaction. If you use a small amount of water, an explosion may result as the
thermite may reduce the water and release hydrogen gas.

Thermite can start fires from the heat radiating from the reaction. Nearby flammable substances can
catch fire even though no sparks or flame touch them.

*** Kilroy was here ***

Compiled for the '94 CookBook 4.14 -- Exodus

Well, thats it! The Anarchist CookBook IV, release version 4.14. It has taken a little over a year to
compile all these files from dozens of anarchy books and filez. I even gave up my board, The Black
Gate, and my modeming to compile this offline. There have been several release versions that were
never really released into the public. It seemed everytime I was ready to release it, I got more stuff
to put in it. I finally stopped changing ver. ## and left it at 4.14, in memory and salute of the
414's, who until they were caught, were the BEST HaCkinG and PhreAKiNg group out there. My hat goes
off to the Jolly Roger for his inspiration, and to the editors of The Big Book Of Mischief, without
whom there would be no references.

The release date of The Anarchist CookBook IV is June, 1994. Well, now that I'm done, my board will go
back up, and I will begin the distribution. But for those who are impatient for it to get to them, it
is available straight off The Black Gate BBS. Until then, Thanx for your dedication to the HaCkiNG and
PhrEaKIng world. Exodus and The Black Gate BBS are available to the Tri-State area, and I will be
calling boards in the North Jersey area ONLY. If you can't get in touch with me at my board, call
around the 201 exchange. I should be around a board or two. L8r.. and Thanx for the Support!